Community Forums

TheArnolds · 07-17-2013, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luvrkds

I mentioned to Dean that Hi Tech in Winter Haven used baby powder and it seemed to reduce the popping, until it rained and washed it way. Note, while looking at the metal plates underneath there was still some white from the powder.

He also frowned on the CW products.

Baby power is an old trick to lubricate rubber seals and to keep them from squeaking but as you said it does not last long and could cause a mess once the power gets wet. If I found a lot of power I would question what it is they are trying to hide...

User1011 · 07-17-2013, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheArnolds

Baby power is an old trick to lubricate rubber seals and to keep them from squeaking but as you said it does not last long and could cause a mess once the power gets wet. If I found a lot of power I would question what it is they are trying to hide...

The baby powder usage was on a 'utube video' for slide maintenance -
The way it was shown was a very slight amount applied to an old white sock. The rubber gasket slide seals were just lightly wiped with the sock. On the video you couldn't even see 'white' powder it was applied so sparingly.

It was stated that the purpose was to prevent 'sticking' of the rubber seals to the body of the MH -- there was no mention of it being used to prevent squeaking nor was there a heavy amount of white powder residue. The rubber seals were still very black -- just clean looking when the process was finished. So.... I don't know ????

OldAero · 07-17-2013, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luvrkds

Having experienced on going problems with my 33.2 slide with trips to the factory and Lazy Days , and three "new" systems (motors, shafts, etc.), I was feeling comfortable with the slide until my last trip when I heard some cracking/popping. So with that in mind I was able to visit Safford RV where THOR Master Tech Dean was resolving some 33.2 slide issues and conducting tech training. They concluded that my slide was working normal and the first three inches of wear on the upper rails was normal and everything else was OK.
Learned items of interest= DO NOT LUBRICATE the rails or the shinny metals plates underneath. Only use AIR on the rails and soap and water on the shinny plates. (These plates go over the rollers).
OK to use lemon pledge on seals, ONLY. (Previously reported to use on slide).
So, with that in mind, I feel more confident that the slide is working.......

Also, agree with Toms (above) comments on leveling procedure. Dean re-emphasized the importance of doing it in the proper sequence.

We have a 33.2 and had a problem early on with the front big slide rivets popping (lower two or three). This was addressed by Safford in Va. with what they said were steel vs. aluminum rivets. During the fixing I called the slIde manufacture of the Schwintech (sp?) mechanism. Their tech said the rails don't require lube and never petroleum based products. If you down load their manual from the web site you'll see it says nothing about required lube. The tech. said that if anything was used it should be a "dry lube". I think something like a Teflon powder. I've seen a dry lube in the Camping World catalog, but not tried it.

OldAero · 07-18-2013, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldAero

We have a 33.2 and had a problem early on with the front big slide rivets popping (lower two or three). This was addressed by Safford in Va. with what they said were steel vs. aluminum rivets. During the fixing I called the slIde manufacture of the Schwintech (sp?) mechanism. Their tech said the rails don't require lube and never petroleum based products. If you down load their manual from the web site you'll see it says nothing about required lube. The tech. said that if anything was used it should be a "dry lube". I think something like a Teflon powder. I've seen a dry lube in the Camping World catalog, but not tried it.

Thinking about this more I guess Safford told me they used beefier rivets. I'm not sure the original ones were aluminum after all.

joecathysw · 07-19-2013, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tcopeland

Just finished our THOR visit. I had time to talk with the techs about slides, jacks, airing up/down.
One thing they made a point of is the coach being level before extending or re-tracking the slides.
Dumping air bags before dropping jacks and airing up bags before raising jacks. Would stop the jerking by the jacks.
They said slides should work with or without shore power.
If you've got the time, go to THOR for your repairs/coach service.

Tom - wanted to understand exactly what you were saying. At delivery I was told to level before extending the slides and - on closeup - retract slides before retracting the jacks. So I followed your first part - dump the suspension air, level with jacks, then extend the slides. I assumed the reverse sequence when closing up i.e. bring in slides, retract the jacks, then air the suspension. I wanted to make sure I was reading your post correctly as it seemed to imply airing the suspension before retracting the jacks? I didn't think you were supposed to air up before retracting. Thanks, Joe

TheArnolds · 07-20-2013, 05:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecathysw

Tom - wanted to understand exactly what you were saying. At delivery I was told to level before extending the slides and - on closeup - retract slides before retracting the jacks. So I followed your first part - dump the suspension air, level with jacks, then extend the slides. I assumed the reverse sequence when closing up i.e. bring in slides, retract the jacks, then air the suspension. I wanted to make sure I was reading your post correctly as it seemed to imply airing the suspension before retracting the jacks? I didn't think you were supposed to air up before retracting. Thanks, Joe

I will let Tom speak for himself but in my case I air up the bags before I retract the jacks. This does two things; 1. Takes some of the weight off the jacks which reduces the jerking. 2. Stops the popping sound from the air bags because they can get pinched if you retract the jacks and the weight of the coach sits directly on the deflated air bags.

gmadams · 07-20-2013, 05:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheArnolds

I will let Tom speak for himself but in my case I air up the bags before I retract the jacks. This does two things; 1. Takes some of the weight off the jacks which reduces the jerking. 2. Stops the popping sound from the air bags because they can get pinched if you retract the jacks and the weight of the coach sits directly on the deflated air bags.

I agree with Jack. The tech said that it is better to fill the air bags up first before raising the jacks.

Ridinbear · 07-20-2013, 07:14 AM

Makes good sense to fill air bags before retracting jacks on rig down. I added it to my rig down lists. Thanks.

joecathysw · 07-20-2013, 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheArnolds

I will let Tom speak for himself but in my case I air up the bags before I retract the jacks. This does two things; 1. Takes some of the weight off the jacks which reduces the jerking. 2. Stops the popping sound from the air bags because they can get pinched if you retract the jacks and the weight of the coach sits directly on the deflated air bags.

Thanks. I must have misunderstood at PDI. The issue of pinching the bags was mentioned but in the context of the bags being inflated so I must have taken away to retract jacks before airing up. Will change my routine. Just to be clear on the other end, they should be deflated before using the jacks to level? Correct?

TheArnolds · 07-20-2013, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecathysw

Thanks. I must have misunderstood at PDI. The issue of pinching the bags was mentioned but in the context of the bags being inflated so I must have taken away to retract jacks before airing up. Will change my routine. Just to be clear on the other end, they should be deflated before using the jacks to level? Correct?

Yes, you should deflate the air bags prior to extending the jacks. Reason being, you have less jack travel to level the coach and secondary you stand less change of getting one or more tires in the air.

Some coaches have auto-dump leveling systems where they dump prior to extending the jacks and inflate prior to retracting the jacks. I prefer the manual dump...

gmadams · 07-20-2013, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheArnolds

Yes, you should deflate the air bags prior to extending the jacks. Reason being, you have less jack travel to level the coach and secondary you stand less change of getting one or more tires in the air.

Some coaches have auto-dump leveling systems where they dump prior to extending the jacks and inflate prior to retracting the jacks. I prefer the manual dump...

The manual dump also comes in handy when going under very low underpasses...

tcopeland · 07-20-2013, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmadams

I agree with Jack. The tech said that it is better to fill the air bags up first before raising the jacks.

Yep
Air up before raising jacks. Will stop the jerking motion in the jacks.
Sorry to mislead anyone.
Thanks Gary.

joecathysw · 07-20-2013, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tcopeland

Yep
Air up before raising jacks. Will stop the jerking motion in the jacks.
Sorry to mislead anyone.
Thanks Gary.

No mislead. I'm really glad I read your original post as I was backwards on the procedure and didn't know it. Thanks to everyone for responding and making this clear. Joe

tcopeland · 07-20-2013, 08:03 PM

3,711 trouble free miles and we are home again. Great adventure up north. Super visit to the THOR factory.
Meet/made lots of new RV friends. Best people in the world!
Next long trip is to Branson MI for veterans week in November. Looking forward to some long weekend trips in between.
See ya on the road!