Community Forums

eldubliner · 05-01-2014, 01:27 PM

Hi,
We are new members here, so hope I'm posting in the right area. I am looking at adding solar panels to our new Palazzo 33.1. Any advice or suggestions on the best wiring route from the roof to the battery compartment?
Also, anyone know the thickness of the roof? I was considering installing the mounting brackets using 1' stainless screws.
Thanks.

terry735001 · 05-01-2014, 02:54 PM

some things to think of

dont install to many over a slide out or the add lbs can make the side wall over the slide its self sag

if your getting the really good panels for taking tree hits there 60 to 80 lbs each for the smaller 80 watts units

i ran the wring for my system down the black vent pipe from the roof to in the bay and from there made the run to where i needed

but i all so have 2 def systems one is 12vdc and one is 24v dc

redridge is right really need one
http://www.bogartengineering.com/products
i have the 2020 or the 2025 ?

Redridge · 05-01-2014, 02:55 PM

When I ordered the Palazzo... I requested for Thor to run a set of cables and just pigtail it in a box on the roof and under the coach. They refused...

I took a tour at the Thor factory and noticed a good point to route the cables down is the bathroom walls... you can follow one of the vents, better yet is to take a peak behind the common walls of the bathroom and bedroom (which is closest to the battery bay).

You may want to install a battery monitor first and live in it for a few days so you can get an idea of sizing up that solar system...

here is a DIY for it...

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f281/pala...mk-177212.html

photoguy1313 · 05-01-2014, 06:05 PM

I installed two 50 watt panels in parallel on the drivers side of the roof just slightly forward of the bathroom vent on our 33.2. I ran two 10AWG wires down the vent pipe and exited the vent pipe just above the trap for the bathroom sink. From there I was able to snake the wires thru the storage compartment, into the water tank compartment, thru a gap between the frame and along to the inverter compartment. I used a Morningstar PM 10 amp controller and am quite happy with the results. I only expect the system to keep my batteries topped up while in storage, which it does quite well.

photoguy1313 · 05-01-2014, 08:04 PM

I also wired a 50 amp diode, thru a switch, to allow charging current to flow from the coach batteries to the chassis batteries, and a disconnect switch to disable the paralleling solenoid when the rig is stored and depending on the solar panels to keep the batteries charged. The reason I went through the trouble to do this is to remove the drain on the batteries caused by the solenoid being energized. The diode causes a 0.5 volt drop of charging voltage to the chassis battery, but still provides enough changing current to keep the chassis batteries up to snuff. One very cold winter has provided a good test of the viability of the solution.

eldubliner · 05-02-2014, 03:11 PM

Thanks for the feedback. I've just got to find the other end of the vent pipe! I am looking at installing 300W solar panels, as I do not have access to power while in storage.
Another thing I am a bit uneasy about, is that in spite of 2 days of continuous shore charging, the best battery voltage that shows on the monitor is 12.5v. After a week in storage, with everything off, this has dropped to 12.3V.I wondering if my batteries are weak?

photoguy1313 · 05-03-2014, 05:21 AM

Those readings do sound sub-par. A fully charged voltage with no load on the batteries would register 12.7 volts. I would check all the cells with an accurate hydrometer - that might reveal the culprits. BTW, if your only goal is to maintain the batteries while in storage, 300 watts of solar would be overkill, imho.

Redridge · 05-03-2014, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eldubliner

Thanks for the feedback. I've just got to find the other end of the vent pipe! I am looking at installing 300W solar panels, as I do not have access to power while in storage.
Another thing I am a bit uneasy about, is that in spite of 2 days of continuous shore charging, the best battery voltage that shows on the monitor is 12.5v. After a week in storage, with everything off, this has dropped to 12.3V.I wondering if my batteries are weak?

I would check for water in the batteries... make sure it is topped off. Worst thing you can do is having low water in them.

eldubliner · 05-03-2014, 03:15 PM

Thanks Photoguy 1313 and Redridge for your responses. In addition to charging while in storage, I would also like the option for occasional boondocking. I need to run a dialysis machine overnight, that's why I chose 300 watts.
I haven't checked the battery water levels yet, as that looks to be a bit of a chore!. The hold down straps go right over the cell caps. It also looks like you would have to remove the batteries to check them. I am thinking of installing a battery slide out tray for easier access.
On the 33.1, where does one find the lower end of the plumbing vents? I looked in the area behind both sinks, and couldn't see anything obvious. I assume they connect somewhere into the black drain pipes?
I love the exchange of information on this forum. Thanks again!

gmadams · 05-03-2014, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eldubliner

Thanks Photoguy 1313 and Redridge for your responses. In addition to charging while in storage, I would also like the option for occasional boondocking. I need to run a dialysis machine overnight, that's why I chose 300 watts.
I haven't checked the battery water levels yet, as that looks to be a bit of a chore!. The hold down straps go right over the cell caps. It also looks like you would have to remove the batteries to check them. I am thinking of installing a battery slide out tray for easier access.
On the 33.1, where does one find the lower end of the plumbing vents? I looked in the area behind both sinks, and couldn't see anything obvious. I assume they connect somewhere into the black drain pipes?
I love the exchange of information on this forum. Thanks again!

I had a slide made for my batteries for my 33.1. Others have used a fill system like the one in the following link.

https://www.flow-rite.com/battery-watering/pro-fill

eldubliner · 05-11-2014, 09:15 PM

Well I finallly installed 2 150 watt panels, and routed the wiring to the battery compartment via one of the plumbing vents. However I have a concern over the attachment of the panels to the roof. I used 1 1/2" stainless lag bolts, but they do not seem to grip very well, and if i try to tighten them, they just keep spinning.
When I was drilling, it took no effort to penetrate the roof.
I understand it is a vacu bond construction. Are there special fasteners required for this? Maybe I need some kind of expanding fasteners?
Any help appreciated!

photoguy1313 · 05-12-2014, 05:10 AM

I used 3/4 inch stainless steel #10 machine screws, with brackets I fabricated from a length of 1-1/4 inch, 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle stock. I used four brackets per panel. They provide about 1/2 inch spacing above the roof to allow space for the connections and air circulation. The roof is not that thick, and I was also concerned with penetrating anything lying below the surface. Panels have been there for 10 months now and all seems well.

Redridge · 05-12-2014, 05:31 AM

If you do a search, many people have used 3M VHB double sided tape and some wood screw with great results... but I would talk to AM solar for advice on this... great guys over there.

Welcome to AM Solar_Your RV Solar Specialists since 1987

MKM · 05-13-2014, 02:01 PM

For those that have routed the wires from the roof through the vent pipes, which ones did you use and where do those pipes come out? I have taken several interior panels off trying to come up with a game plan but have not come up with any good results.