Community Forums

vmyoung61 · 07-11-2019, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ky bob

Hi, What was a price for repairing the wet bay ?
How much time did it take for them to replace the wet bay flooring ?

Bob

It took him a total of about 10 hours over 2 days. He replaced the floor and the wall on the side towards the front of the coach. Just under $1257 total.

DMBanwarth · 08-06-2022, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ky bob

I have 2 of my storage bays with the flooring that is soft. This tells me that the wood has soaked up water & is rotting. I will need to replace it within the next few months.

The replacement product from Thor is very expensive. They call it Pebble Board and it is plywood with plastic panels glued to both sides of it. It must be ordered thru a Thor dealer and I was told there is now a long wait to get it as the supplier is backlogged.

I have an idea for a possible replacement. Tell me what you think of it.

Home depot sells 4 ft X 8 ft pressure treated marine grade plywood in various thicknesses. I would be looking for 5/8" or 3/4" thick plywood for the storage bay flooring.

They also sell 4 ft X 8 ft sheets of FRP wall panels that is .090 thick.

FRP is (Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic) This is used often on bathroom walls in restaurants, department stores etc.

My idea is to purchase the adhesive for the FRP panels (from Home Depot also) and glue the FRP panels to the top and bottom of the plywood.

Then I would have a panel for my flooring with the plastic on top & bottom that looks about the same as Thor's "Pebble Board" they use when building new Palazzo coaches.

The pebble board flooring in the storage bay sits down in angle iron frames. I would apply silicone caulk sealer on the angle iron, then install the new homemade "Pebble Board" panel into the angle iron frame and use self drilling 1-1/2" long TEK screws to hold it down. (also avail at Home Depot)

I would apply a bead of silicone caulk sealer on the underside where the panel meets the frame.

After the silicone dried, I would then spray the bottom FRP panel (facing the road) with a rubberized undercoating spray from an auto parts store (available in a spray can)

The final step would be to put a bead of white caulking on the inside of the storage bay where the wall meets the floor to give it a finished look.

What do you think ? let me know if you have any other ideas.

Bob

Bob,
Did you do the repair as you intended? Or, did you make any changes to your plan? How did it turn out?
Thanks,
DavidB1

jtreminio · 08-08-2022, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DMBanwarth

Bob,
Did you do the repair as you intended? Or, did you make any changes to your plan? How did it turn out?
Thanks,
DavidB1

DavidB1, if you are interested I replaced all my RV's basement flooring with 3/16" aluminum: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/202...um-551959.html

ky bob · 08-09-2022, 08:38 AM

Hello Dave and Linda, I purchased the Coosa Composite Board for mine, but i have been so busy I haven't installed it yet. I got the 1/2" thick board. It is strong and lightweight/ I will paint the top side with outdoor rated BINZ white paint and may undercoat the bottom . This stuff will not absorb any water. I will use Pro Flex to do all the sealing needed between the Coosa Board and the angle iron it drops into. I will also use stainless steel screws and nuts in any place I need to seam it together. Hopefully, some day soon I will be able to install it in the open bay and the wet bay with the water tank. I read that someone installed new flooring in the bay with the tank without needing to remove the tank, so hopefully I can do the same. Here is a link to the Coosa Board product. This is one reseller, there are more across the U.S.

https://www.boatoutfitters.com/coosa...1=1112&215=249

DMBanwarth · 08-09-2022, 10:28 AM

Bob,
Thanks very much for your response.

The link was very educational and I see the big advantage of Coosa; i.e. do it once and never worry about it again it seems. Not sure which way we will go yet. Seems the main issue with any plywood (pressure treated or marine grade) is to seal the edges well to guard against delamination and rot. If I go the plywood method, I am thinking that I might use aluminum skin underneath and protect against electrolysis with rubberized bedding tape for the panels to lie on and separate them from the steel frame. Lots to consider. Good luck with your project! I think you are on a good track.
Dave and Linda

DMBanwarth · 08-09-2022, 10:30 AM

jtriminio, Thanks for the input. Yours turned out beautifully!

coeranch · 09-18-2022, 12:10 PM

Ky Bob -

I think that's a great idea, because that is exactly what I've been planning to do for my two front bays! My wet bay and large pass-thru storage bays had been warping as well, but I had Thor replace those when I was having other work done. They also welded additional support beams under both of those floors.

But can't seem to completely stop the water from coming in the doors while under way in a heavy rain. So I've added additional weatherstripping to the doors, trying to find a balance between sealing out the water while still allowing the doors to close relatively easily. As a final measure, everything in my pass-thru bay is in Rubbermaid tubs! So while I still get water at times, a quick wipe (well, sometimes soaking then wiping!) takes care of the problem.

- TC