Originally Posted by JHinman
Interesting idea, thanks!
What is the switch you refer to? My solar panel is a 170-watt Zamp, and it has no disconnect.
What is blocking a pull straight down?
The switch is for the small 10 watt "trickle charge" panel on the roof and is located in the 2 switch bezel that your tank heater switch is on. It is
s unregulated and I am not a fan of unregulated electricity so now it is tied into my 170 watt system through the panel.
The switch lead for it was accessible via the front vent/fan opening. I had to pull from there, to the solar panel opening and then downward as previously described to the electrical "J box" underneath.
Do yourself a favor while you are in the J box- take the time to neaten it up a bit and check the quality of crimp connections, I ended up redoing a bunch of them.
I couldn't get a clean straight pull because every time I was able to get my fish tape up and over the blocking I got into the fiberglass.
Running to the side I was able to run parallel to the framing structure without compromising the fiberglass. This is where the endoscope was worth it's weight in gold, I fashioned a hook out of TIG rod on it and fed it upwards from my pull port and was able to intercept the fish tape and pull it down to the port.
From there it was much easier to fish the wire down to the J box.
It was well worth it though- I mounted some LED flood lights at the rear bumper and wired them in with a diode- when my truck is connected they are back up lights, when disconnected they are flood lights that run off of the house battery.