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Old 07-21-2021, 02:45 PM   #1
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24KRS construction photos?

Anyone have photos of an Outdoors RV under construction, showing the front wall under the fiberglass cap?

It seems like a person could fish a wire from the solar charger at the interior cabinets down to the underfloor junction box. That is the route used by the 8-ga solar wiring in the original construction. Horizontal blocking would interfere, if it is used. Also, a path from the front cavity to the junction box is not clear to me.

I have a 2021 24KRS, but I suspect any late model ORV trailer will be similar.

Thanks for any help!
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Old 07-21-2021, 05:49 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHinman View Post
Anyone have photos of an Outdoors RV under construction, showing the front wall under the fiberglass cap?

It seems like a person could fish a wire from the solar charger at the interior cabinets down to the underfloor junction box. That is the route used by the 8-ga solar wiring in the original construction. Horizontal blocking would interfere, if it is used. Also, a path from the front cavity to the junction box is not clear to me.

I have a 2021 24KRS, but I suspect any late model ORV trailer will be similar.

Thanks for any help!


Been there, done that(24RLS). I repurposed the switch for the small solar panel for some rear flood lights.
It’s a PITA but it can be done. You have some fiberglass batting to contend with and you can’t get a straight single pull, you will have to make a small pull port in one of the wardrobes.
I ended up pulling from the solar controller forward and down at an angle to my pull port. From there down to the battery shut off (used that as another pull port) then down to the front of the cap and outside of the frame rail.
Once you get there you will need to get it between the floor and frame then into the electrical “junction box”.
A cheap 10’ endoscope from Amazon and a good fish tape make it much easier.
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Old 07-21-2021, 08:10 PM   #3
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Interesting idea, thanks!

What is the switch you refer to? My solar panel is a 170-watt Zamp, and it has no disconnect.

What is blocking a pull straight down?
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Old 07-22-2021, 07:30 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by JHinman View Post
Interesting idea, thanks!

What is the switch you refer to? My solar panel is a 170-watt Zamp, and it has no disconnect.

What is blocking a pull straight down?
The switch is for the small 10 watt "trickle charge" panel on the roof and is located in the 2 switch bezel that your tank heater switch is on. It is
s unregulated and I am not a fan of unregulated electricity so now it is tied into my 170 watt system through the panel.
The switch lead for it was accessible via the front vent/fan opening. I had to pull from there, to the solar panel opening and then downward as previously described to the electrical "J box" underneath.
Do yourself a favor while you are in the J box- take the time to neaten it up a bit and check the quality of crimp connections, I ended up redoing a bunch of them.

I couldn't get a clean straight pull because every time I was able to get my fish tape up and over the blocking I got into the fiberglass.
Running to the side I was able to run parallel to the framing structure without compromising the fiberglass. This is where the endoscope was worth it's weight in gold, I fashioned a hook out of TIG rod on it and fed it upwards from my pull port and was able to intercept the fish tape and pull it down to the port.
From there it was much easier to fish the wire down to the J box.

It was well worth it though- I mounted some LED flood lights at the rear bumper and wired them in with a diode- when my truck is connected they are back up lights, when disconnected they are flood lights that run off of the house battery.
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Old 07-22-2021, 08:11 AM   #5
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Really helpful reply! Thank you for this!

Using an endoscope for “fishing” is brilliant. I will have to get one. There will be plenty of other uses also, I am sure.
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