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Old 03-11-2020, 05:39 PM   #1
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Anderson rapid jack or something else?

Looking at something to jack a trailer wheel up far enough to change a flat tire just in case.. The Anderson rapid jack seems like a pretty good design but I'm not sure if it would work on our trailers with the Morride Suspension. With the independent axle suspension travel advertised I'm worried that the good wheel would be raised to it's max with the Anderson jack and the wheel with the flat wouldn't come up enough to change the tire.

https://www.amazon.com/Andersen-Hitc...3969887&sr=8-2

Anybody successfully used one of these or have a better suggestion? Thanks..
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Old 03-11-2020, 05:45 PM   #2
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I picked up the Andersen Rapid Jack when we got our 23DBS last fall. Testing it at home before hitting the road I found that when placed under the tire on the front axle it lifted the tire on the rear axle up with plenty of room to spare. However, reversing that it didn't quite lift the tire on the front axle up enough for my comfort. So I've got some additional short planks I carry to use under it in the event I run into that scenario. All in all though, I like it.
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Old 03-11-2020, 06:24 PM   #3
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I use the RapidJack and have only had one issue. I had a situation where the front tire on the passenger side of the trailer disintegrated and the back tire on the same side received a small puncture. By the time I tried to use the RapidJack the back tire had lost enough air that the RapidJack couldn't raise the front tire high enough to remove it. I realize that this is a worst case scenario, but I now carry a standard bottle jack as a backup, just in case history repeats itself...
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Old 03-11-2020, 07:53 PM   #4
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I use my tri-lynx leveling blocks, I already have 2 sets and that is plenty for lifting the trailer and one less thing to carry.
https://www.amazon.ca/Tri-Lynx-00015...46686536&psc=1
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Old 03-11-2020, 08:10 PM   #5
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I have not head a double flat as outlined above.

Having had a single flat on tandem axles many times I have used Andersen Rapid Jack and Trailer Aid products as well as Lynx blocks.

In most cases the tools above will get the flat fire off the ground for replacement. BUT...My experience has shown that those products don’t always work on the side of the road. they get you 90% there but I have used a bottle jack with some blocks on the flat tire-side to get the bad tire fully off the ground for replacement.

So why waste money on the Rapid Jack, Trailer Aid, or Lynx blocks if they don’t work? The fact is that if you use blocks and a bottle jack to lift the flat off the ground is pretty unstable considering the height off the ground that the jack must be placed...especially considering on the side of the road. The Rapid Jack, Trailer Aid, Lynx blocks get you 90% there...it only requires 4-5 pumps of a bottle jack to get the last 10% very safely IMHO.
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Old 03-11-2020, 08:25 PM   #6
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If you are using a bottle jack get one of these. Its a lot more stable.

[IMG]I[/IMG]
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Old 03-12-2020, 09:15 AM   #7
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I carry both (we used to have a single axle trailer and used the Anderson for leveling). As others have said side of road conditions vary, so be prepared for the worst.

I would recommend you pick up or carry some illumination device (or flares) and some kind of vest that highlights your presence. It has helped me in the past while changing a flat on the road side of a highway on the other side of a turn (read: less than ideal place to change a tire).

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Old 03-12-2020, 09:19 AM   #8
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Every darn time I have ever needed a bottle jack it seems they have leaked/seal bypassed.
I now carry an old school scissor jack from a F550 IIRC and it has never failed and is no more work than a bottle jack and a heck of a lot lighter and easier to place.
I did weld a plate on the bottom to give a larger footprint for softer soil.
It takes up much less storage space than a comparable bottle jack, about 3"x12"x8" collapsed, can stow it in any orientation and will never leak. It extends to about 16" so it will raise darn near anything.
I have used it sideways to jack out the fender on a buddies ATV trailer when he backed into a large rock at night and the fender was into the tire. 15 minutes and he was back in business.
Bottle jacks are a pain in the keester IMO.
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Old 03-14-2020, 03:03 PM   #9
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Camper8251, where did you buy that?
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Old 03-14-2020, 07:54 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camper8251 View Post
If you are using a bottle jack get one of these. Its a lot more stable.

[IMG]I[/IMG]
I like! All I use is bottle jack, something to look into. The bottle jack buddy? Found it.. 40 bucks us
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Old 03-14-2020, 08:54 PM   #11
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Might look at the Trailer Aid Plus. A little more lift, almost as much as the Anderson and looks more stable.
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Old 03-15-2020, 06:58 PM   #12
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I found this article from another member (while searching for something unrelated), its a worst case scenario but they weren't able to use their anderson leveler as a jack.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f282/a-t...es-293067.html
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Old 03-30-2020, 11:34 PM   #13
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This thread has really got me thinking about my new RV and if I would have everything I needed to actually change a flat if out in the middle of nowhere. My past experience with my other RV's told me "piece of cake, been there done that". Then I went out and actually looked at what I had.
1. How many people realize that the lug nut on the steel rimmed spare is 13/16 and the lug nuts on the fancy Aluminum wheels are 3/4? Better have both sizes! AND a lug wrench for that matter. I need to get my four way in the trailer...Ooops
Has anyone tried using the closed end chrome lug nuts with the steel wheel. The steel rims are a LOT thinner and I have found that sometimes the closed end lug nuts bottom out on the studs before they are even tight against the rim. I will have to verify that tomorrow if it is not raining too hard!
2. How many realize that jacking up under the axle is not so easy with the ORV setup as in other RV's? No U bolt plate to safely support your spindly 1" wide hydraulic jack ram, just the axle itself. Besides the factory highly suggests you don't even do it there at all. I do like the idea of the "Bottle Jack Buddy" in a previous post. It looks like a safe alternative, although it is horribly overpriced for what it is. I may make one of these!
3. If you use the frame as suggested, you had better have plenty of wide blocking to raise the jack up high enough to be safe. From ground to frame is a little over 2 feet!
4. I like the ramp idea also, but again a little spendy, and as others have noted, not a solution in all situations.
All I am getting to here is you should really take the time to get your ducks in a row before you get into the bad situation on the side of the road. Being out there without the things you need to get yourself out of hot water is not a good thing. Thanks to this thread
I might be better prepared for when it happens!
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Old 03-31-2020, 12:19 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoaggy View Post
This thread has really got me thinking about my new RV and if I would have everything I needed to actually change a flat if out in the middle of nowhere. My past experience with my other RV's told me "piece of cake, been there done that". Then I went out and actually looked at what I had.
1. How many people realize that the lug nut on the steel rimmed spare is 13/16 and the lug nuts on the fancy Aluminum wheels are 3/4? Better have both sizes! AND a lug wrench for that matter. I need to get my four way in the trailer...Ooops.
Has anyone tried using the closed end chrome lug nuts with the steel wheel. The steel rims are a LOT thinner and I have found that sometimes the closed end lug nuts bottom out on the studs before they are even tight against the rim. I will have to verify that tomorrow if it is not raining too hard!
2. How many realize that jacking up under the axle is not so easy with the ORV setup as in other RV's? No U bolt plate to safely support your spindly 1" wide hydraulic jack ram, just the axle itself. Besides the factory highly suggests you don't even do it there at all. I do like the idea of the "Bottle Jack Buddy" in a previous post. It looks like a safe alternative, although it is horribly overpriced for what it is. I may make one of these!
3. If you use the frame as suggested, you had better have plenty of wide blocking to raise the jack up high enough to be safe. From ground to frame is a little over 2 feet!
4. I like the ramp idea also, but again a little spendy, and as others have noted, not a solution in all situations.
All I am getting to here is you should really take the time to get your ducks in a row before you get into the bad situation on the side of the road. Being out there without the things you need to get yourself out of hot water is not a good thing. Thanks to this thread
I might be better prepared for when it happens!


1. Yup. Been there done that on the side of I 40. My spare is mounted on the drivers side of the bumper to allow for my bike rack and the ladder. Can’t say getting the spare off was a great experience. I’m thinking about other options for the spare tire. A while back I purchased a kit that has a power bar, torque wrench and deep sockets for both metric and SAE lug nuts. It was a worthwhile purchase and it stays in the truck so I never leave home without it.

2. Bought an Andersen rapid jack and this was the first time I had to use it and I found it didn’t provide enough lift. Put it on a piece of 2x6 and just had enough to swap the tires. I have a small floor jack that has just been promoted from the garage to the truck to ensure that doesn’t happen again. The other item I carry is a small rubber mat for my knees when changing out the tire.

3. If you use a hydraulic jack on the frame you will need some blocking to elevate the jack and to ensure you don’t pinch the propane line that runs down the frame or have it slip off. Learned this when replacing bushings on the suspension.

4. I thought I was prepared very well but I should have tried the rapid jack at home to ensure it work. Fortunately I was able to make it work.
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