Community Forums

rarebear.nm · 05-01-2025, 08:16 PM

I have completed a major electrical upgrade to our new 19mks. Destails will follow soon.

Generally I like to use circuit protection (breaker or fuse) as close to the power source as possible to protect the wire. In the ORV 19mks the OEM install of the hitch jack only used a fuse very near the jack head. So I added a DIN 32amp DC breaker just off the main buss bar for this circuit. The jack would run for a few seconds and trip the breaker. I tried a 40 amp DIN breaker. Same result. Then I just bypassed the beaker issue totally and the jack was very happy running up/down as much as I desired. Still had it's OEM fuse in the circuit.

Question is are tounge jacks used by ORV a major power hogsthat would trip a breaker? Appears that way. Anyone else added protection near the power source and if so what did you use?

Skip426 · 05-02-2025, 01:37 PM

Was the jack working properly before the other electrical upgrade ?

Did that upgrade involve lithium batteries ?

litzdog911 · 05-02-2025, 01:37 PM

The startup current can be very high. Do you have a clamp ammeter to check the startup current draw?

d23haynes57 · 05-02-2025, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rarebear.nm

I have completed a major electrical upgrade to our new 19mks. Destails will follow soon.

Generally I like to use circuit protection (breaker or fuse) as close to the power source as possible to protect the wire. In the ORV 19mks the OEM install of the hitch jack only used a fuse very near the jack head. So I added a DIN 32amp DC breaker just off the main buss bar for this circuit. The jack would run for a few seconds and trip the breaker. I tried a 40 amp DIN breaker. Same result. Then I just bypassed the beaker issue totally and the jack was very happy running up/down as much as I desired. Still had it's OEM fuse in the circuit.

Question is are tounge jacks used by ORV a major power hogsthat would trip a breaker? Appears that way. Anyone else added protection near the power source and if so what did you use?

What size and type is the OEM fuse? You need to at least match that including if it is a time delay motor fuse.

Doing modifications, you should have some test equipment to confirm your work. A battery monitoring system would also allow the current draw to be determined.

Cumminsfan · 05-02-2025, 02:51 PM

What was wrong with the previous setup? I had the OEM Barker VIP 3500 for 5 seasons without issue till it quit. Switched to a Stromberg Carlson 5000 lb. I also switched to one 230ah LiTime battery and never missed a beat. Not sure why the disconnect was needed. I just pull the fuse if needed.

fda fa · 05-02-2025, 05:44 PM

Was the wire length increased from what was originally installed by factory, from LA battery to front jack vs LFP to front jack (I expect so)? If so, was wire size (AWG) increased the total distance (or at least most of way) from LFP to jack? Actual wire size calculation would be more accurate for this sizing but mentioned is a place to start.

Added: Include both positive and negative wire lengths to determine total.

If wire was changed ensure that wires were actually fully copper and not claimed copper (actually aluminum). Aluminum can be used but larger wire size is required.

rarebear.nm · 05-03-2025, 10:10 AM

Lots of questions...

Went from one lithium OEM battery to four Battle Born batteries.

The wire length was extended by about 5 ft round trip.

Wire gauge was increased from #6 (OEM) to #8 for the added length.

I installed a large Victron upgrade, Multiplus II 3000, Cerbo/Touch 70, Smart Shunt BMV-712, Battery Protect, two 100/50 MPPT controllers, Orions XS 50 DC-DC charger, Direct Control for inverter.

This was not my first rodeo. Just was running short of time with this jack issue. Needed to get it hitched for a trip to the dealer for some factory warranty work. I have a large collection of meters and test equipment just did not have the time right then to start testing.

ORV placed the hole for the fitting to the pump on the fresh water tank directly above a support cross member and failed in plastic welding a patch over the hole. They drilled a new hole few inches away. So I had a steady leak from day 1 during the PDI.

As stated in OP, the OEM fuse was about 1ft from the jack motor. I much prefer having wire protection near the power source, not at the end of the circuit. Thus the desire to add the breaker.

The breaker is a trip range C. Made for motors. Maybe should have used a D breaker instead. Or another 30amp fuse like the one at the jack head. I did not have one of those breakers or slow blow 30 amp fuse on hand to try.

I'm sure as with most motors there is a startup surge. Jack motors by nature are under full load at power up. Part of my OP statement.

My original question still stands. Exactly what has anyone else done to provide circuit protection at the power end of the jack cable?

d23haynes57 · 05-03-2025, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rarebear.nm

Lots of questions...

Went from one lithium OEM battery to four Battle Born batteries.

The wire length was extended by about 5 ft round trip.

Wire gauge was increased from #6 (OEM) to #8 for the added length.

I installed a large Victron upgrade, Multiplus II 3000, Cerbo/Touch 70, Smart Shunt BMV-712, Battery Protect, two 100/50 MPPT controllers, Orions XS 50 DC-DC charger, Direct Control for inverter.

This was not my first rodeo. Just was running short of time with this jack issue. Needed to get it hitched for a trip to the dealer for some factory warranty work. I have a large collection of meters and test equipment just did not have the time right then to start testing.

ORV placed the hole for the fitting to the pump on the fresh water tank directly above a support cross member and failed in plastic welding a patch over the hole. They drilled a new hole few inches away. So I had a steady leak from day 1 during the PDI.

As stated in OP, the OEM fuse was about 1ft from the jack motor. I much prefer having wire protection near the power source, not at the end of the circuit. Thus the desire to add the breaker.

The breaker is a trip range C. Made for motors. Maybe should have used a D breaker instead. Or another 30amp fuse like the one at the jack head. I did not have one of those breakers or slow blow 30 amp fuse on hand to try.

I'm sure as with most motors there is a startup surge. Jack motors by nature are under full load at power up. Part of my OP statement.

My original question still stands. Exactly what has anyone else done to provide circuit protection at the power end of the jack cable?

"Wire gauge was increased from #6 (OEM) to #8 for the added length."
Is that a typo? 6 gauge is larger than 8 gauge.

rarebear.nm · 05-03-2025, 01:06 PM

Typo. went from #10 (OEM) to #8 to breaker. Then #6 from breaker to buss bar. Everything on the buss bar is #6, 2/0 or 4/0 wire.

fda fa · 05-03-2025, 04:15 PM

Lippert Power Tongue jack shows:

"Troubleshooting Fuse The Power Tongue Jack is provided with a 30A ATO-type in-line fuse and will need to be replaced if it blows. The battery must be fully charged prior to operating the Power Tongue Jack. Low voltage from the battery will cause the fuse to blow prematurely"

No hint of needing a slow blow fuse with this statement. If you still have original fuse the speed could be checked by how it is labeled.

Added: Could be a bad motor. I know it was working fine before change though.

You can compare speed curves for the breaker you installed to the stock fuse. Better than guessing.

What brand is the circuit breaker? Make sure that it is not a good looking fake.

rarebear.nm · 05-03-2025, 08:15 PM

The OEM fuse is an inline glass fuse in what appears to be a Blue Seas holder. Not an ATO fuse for sure. Since the trailer is at a the dealer's lot for the next week or two I'm not able to check anything on it.

It is hard to imagine the fuse for a loaded motor at start up would be anything other than slow blow.

fda fa · 05-04-2025, 07:00 AM

My 2020 ORV with Lippert jack has 30A ATO blade style but it is not nearby to get a number from it.

One of the related jacks specifics AGC-30, which is not a slow blow, but you have something else...

Vintage465 · 05-04-2025, 10:08 AM

I think I'd remove it from the breaker and just use an appropriate size fuse at an easily serviceable location. Breakers are heat activated and I've seen breakers be influenced by ambient temperature..