Community Forums

BlueSparks · 06-11-2022, 09:22 AM

I just got my 27TRX and am in the process of outfitting it for full timing. I saw a discussion on the Facebook Outdoors RV group, and am wondering what you use to change a flat tire. Reading the owners manual they call for jacking on the frame only. What is your experience like?
Thanks.

Cumminsfan · 06-11-2022, 10:39 AM

I've only had to change one tire out on the road. I used a bottle jack under the spring perch. That is where the tire puts pressure on the axle so using a jack there is the same thing. Only need to raise the tire about 1.5" +/-. No different that driving over bumps.
I don't like those trailer aid ramps that lift one tire up high enough so that the flat tire is off the ground. That puts all the weight on one tire for that side of the trailer.

jimmystoys · 06-12-2022, 09:57 AM

I've experience a couple blow outs in the last 10 years on our RV. Tire issues lol. That's another thread!! Anyways, it can be stressful and I pull a variety of trailers through my work. I think the Anderson ramp system or anything similar, is the simplest and safest way. Typically when you have a flat your not in a very controlled environment to say the least. Maybe even on a busy road. Who needs that!? I want to get on with things the safest way possible. Yes only one axles being supported when changing your flat. How long did you drive with the one wheel before you noticed your flat?? How's that any different? Fiddling around trying to reach under your trailer to try and find a spot to jack up is not safe as far as I'm concerned. Murphy's Law anyone?? Remember, your in an uncontrolled environment, not your driveway or shop where you can do things safely. That's number one here. Ramps are pretty safe, even on uneven ground and, your trailer will not fall on you. Keep it in mind. Good luck with your decision.

BeatCJ · 06-12-2022, 02:38 PM

I'm a fan of a floor jack. I agree with Cumminsfan, I like using a spring pad. But I'm also pretty sure with the springs are on top of our Outdoors RV axles. Mine's not at home.right now to look at. I still carry my floor jack, but plan on a chunk of 2 x 6 on top of the saddle.

The Harbor Freight aluminum body versions area lot nicer to lug around, I'll probably upgrade to one of those this summer to save 50ish pounds.

BlueSparks · 06-12-2022, 08:31 PM

Okay, so the next thought is. Would it be okay to drive the good wheel up on a ramp to take out most of the slack and then use a jack to finish the rest of the lift? Obviously using chocks on the opposite side to prevent any movement as a safety precaution.

Cumminsfan · 06-13-2022, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueSparks

Okay, so the next thought is. Would it be okay to drive the good wheel up on a ramp to take out most of the slack and then use a jack to finish the rest of the lift? Obviously using chocks on the opposite side to prevent any movement as a safety precaution.

Thats kinda overkill IMO. Assuming you're still hitched to the truck you don't need chocks since the trucks emergency brake and being in park would stop the trailer from moving while jacked up.
Honestly I would just pick one or the other and go for it.

BeatCJ · 06-13-2022, 07:56 AM

I agree, it's probably more than absolutely necessary, but I'm a believer there is no such thing as overkill. If it makes you comfortable, what you suggest is probably more gentle on your suspension.

BlueSparks · 06-13-2022, 09:06 AM

Thanks for the replies.
If it is my truck, I will just do the axle like most of you are saying.
I am just not sure how beefy the trailer axle is and want to go the
conservative route.

wrvond · 06-13-2022, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueSparks

I just got my 27TRX and am in the process of outfitting it for full timing. I saw a discussion on the Facebook Outdoors RV group, and am wondering what you use to change a flat tire. Reading the owners manual they call for jacking on the frame only. What is your experience like?
Thanks.

When I was transporting RVs I had a ramp I made of wood that I stored under my tool box in the truck bed. It allowed me to pull (or back) the good tire up on the ramp sufficiently high enough to remove the flat and mount the spare. A real time and effort saver. It also kept me from having to crawl around on the muddy or icy ground while reaching under the camper. The downside to this method is that when you are alone you have to go by feel (guess) to know when the camper is far enough on the ramp to lift the dead wheel clear of the ground.
Prior to that I used a ginormous bottle jack from Tractor Supply that I placed under the spring mount behind the flat tire. The downsides of this method are legion:
the jack is HEAVY. Trying to position it properly under the axle is difficult at best, add in rain, snow, darkness, uneven terrain or any other adverse condition you can think of - it just gets harder and usually requires a couple tries to get it right. Then, after the tire is changed and you are exhausted you still have to crawl under there to get the jack back out.
The hitch on your truck is the best wheel chock ever. I never even carried wheel chocks let alone use them.
Other recommendations:
If your truck has a 110 VAC outlet, get an extension cord and a corded impact driver with socket to fit your lug nuts (camper and truck). A cordless impact driver is much more convenient but it seems the battery is always dead when I need it.
Always use a torque wrench to finish the wheel installation.
Reflective hazard triangles - use 'em.
Headlight - as in light for your head. Very handy out there at night.

fisher99 · 06-14-2022, 01:06 PM

I use the Andersen Rapid Jack. Works slick. No crawling under the trailer. And I have absolutely no qualms about having the trailer supported on 1 wheel while I'm changing the other. However, there are 2 "caveats" that I can share from my personal experience.

1. If one tire is flat and the other is losing air, the Rapid Jack (or any other ramp type jack) probably won't work. I must have run over something that completely destroyed the front tire and poked a hole in the rear tire. By the time I got pulled over, got the Rapid Jack out, and drove the rear tire up on it, it was half flat and therefore couldn't raise the destroyed front tire high enough off the ground to remove the tire. I hope I'm never in a situation where I lose both tires on a side again, but still, it can happen.

2. The guy who originally set my hitch up said that it should be set so that the trailer was "nose down", so that's how he set it. Turns out that it enough more weight and angle on the front tire that you can't get it off the ground by running the rear tire up on the Rapid Jack. I had the hitch adjusted to level the trailer and now the Rapid Jack works on both wheels.

Live and learn...

jimmystoys · 06-14-2022, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueSparks

Okay, so the next thought is. Would it be okay to drive the good wheel up on a ramp to take out most of the slack and then use a jack to finish the rest of the lift? Obviously using chocks on the opposite side to prevent any movement as a safety precaution.

When I drive up on my ramp the other wheel clears the ground too. Are you worried it won't clear?

BlueSparks · 06-14-2022, 10:02 PM

wrvond : that is a good suggestion about using a corded impact, I do have a battery one, but like you say not so good if the battery is dead.

I am considering the bottle jack as a backup, just in case the ramp doesn't work. Since I have the 27TRX I have the room and weight capacity to carry it.

fisher99 · 06-15-2022, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueSparks

wrvond : that is a good suggestion about using a corded impact, I do have a battery one, but like you say not so good if the battery is dead.

I am considering the bottle jack as a backup, just in case the ramp doesn't work. Since I have the 27TRX I have the room and weight capacity to carry it.

Absolutely. I now carry a bottle jack as a backup and might even pick up a "lightweight" aluminum floor jack if I find a good price. Also carry a good piece of 2x6 or 2x8 as a base for the jack, as roadsides can have very deep/soft gravel. Although if you buy the complete Andersen kit (including the levelers) it comes with some nice pads that work for this purpose.