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04-03-2018, 10:09 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Idaho
Posts: 151
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Creekside teething problems on first outing
So we took the new to us 15 creekside 22rb to the Oregon coast last week. Had a few problems come up. The worst was the hanger bracket it the large bathroom wardrobe/closet came loose from the ceiling. Pulled 4 screws, that were just through the paneling, out. It stopped in the middle where a rafter must be. Only had 4 coats hanging on it at the time. There isn't anything solid to screw into. How dumb is that? How do I fix it?
The other problem is more of an inconvenience. Solid foam walls must mean no wires in the walls so the entry light & outside light switches are not next to the door. They are mounted to the end of the cabinet that you can't reach without stepping in first. Not easy to see if returning after dark. Fixed that with a battery operated switch light mounted by the door opening.
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This trailer also does not pull/track as well as the older backcountry 22rb we had for some reason. It wants to wag just a little when a vehicle passes or is passed. The wind makes it unsteady also. The old 22rb was super rock solid all the time. It isn't that bad mind you but it isn't "great" like the old trailer. Same tow vehicle & hitch setup as before. I'm going to lower the ball mount one hole to see if that helps. It looks level but is slightly front high if you measure it.
On the good side, the led lights are great. Lights in the passthrough are awesome. The trailer seems to hold heat much better. Hot water heater is larger. Like the toilet better and it just looks nicer from the outside.
John
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04-03-2018, 10:30 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Kennewick, WA
Posts: 982
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As to the outside light, do you have the remote system; awning, slide, etc?? If so, possibly has outside light on it, but the switch has to be on first, then the remote controls it. Disconnect battery, and then need to use manual switch to turn back on and be controlled by remote.
As to the hanger bracket, I would use short metal expanding wall anchors in each screw position. They will hold extremely well, maybe able to do pull ups on the hanger!! I use them for any major wall attachment in out Timber Ridge.
Possibly nose high will give you that feeling, and maybe where your tanks are located compared to your last trailer. Ours tows well, but can feel different at times depending on loading, tank levels, amount of s**t we stuffed into it!!
And, yes the backcountry is around again, it replaces the Black Rock line. Glad you love the trailer and haven't had any big issues. We didn't, and still haven't had major issues with ours in 3 yrs now.
__________________
2016 Timber Ridge 280RKS
2003 Excursion XLT V10 4:30 Axles
DualCam HP 450W Roof Solar/320W Portable
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04-03-2018, 10:48 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Idaho
Posts: 151
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I will try the expanding wall anchors, the ones that work kinda like a rivnut right?
We have a power awning but no slide. I was not told there was a remote other then the tv & stereo.
The other trailer was the same 22rb floor plan as the new one. Tanks are in the same place and it is loaded pretty much the same way. The new is a creekside & the old was a backcountry.
Thanks for the input.
John
__________________
John
2022 ORV 24RKS
2003 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9 CRD 4x4 Quad cab 6sp. SB. SRW.
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04-03-2018, 10:55 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Kennewick, WA
Posts: 982
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This the style I use. Don't need real long ones, just about 1-1/2" or so. I have a tool that expands them in the wall without them trying to turn in the thin wood. It is a automotive door panel removal tool. Makes it real easy to do, since they want to turn in thin stuff before expanding fully sometimes. When in they really hold!!
__________________
2016 Timber Ridge 280RKS
2003 Excursion XLT V10 4:30 Axles
DualCam HP 450W Roof Solar/320W Portable
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04-03-2018, 11:00 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Kennewick, WA
Posts: 982
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This is the tool that I use. I put a washer under the screw head, drill hole size necc, then squeeze the tool to pull screw outward and expand the legs to hold. Then easily reinstall screw (or shorter one sometimes) and item to attach to wall or ceiling.
__________________
2016 Timber Ridge 280RKS
2003 Excursion XLT V10 4:30 Axles
DualCam HP 450W Roof Solar/320W Portable
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04-03-2018, 11:09 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1,663
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I have a bunch of these in different sizes, they have never let me down and no guessing if they have spread out far enough.
__________________
2008 F450, 2016 Outdoors RV Glacier Peak 26 RKS
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04-03-2018, 11:26 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Idaho
Posts: 151
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Thanks all. I have the door panel tool. 26 years for dodge dealer. The larger wing style needs too big of hole to insert for my liking.
Can you use the rivit type in the foam walls also? Need a coat rack by the door and no studs to use there either.
John
__________________
John
2022 ORV 24RKS
2003 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9 CRD 4x4 Quad cab 6sp. SB. SRW.
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04-03-2018, 11:44 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Kennewick, WA
Posts: 982
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I would say yes to exterior walls, smaller ones aren't going to hurt the wall integrity. Fairly small footprint and interior foam damage. That is why I use the shortest ones I can find.
__________________
2016 Timber Ridge 280RKS
2003 Excursion XLT V10 4:30 Axles
DualCam HP 450W Roof Solar/320W Portable
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04-04-2018, 05:21 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: SW Washington
Posts: 220
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For coat hooks we use 3M Command hooks. Zero damage to the wall but really very strong. Also easy to install, which is my favorite difficulty level.
__________________
Timber Ridge 25RDS (mid 2017)
2017 GMC Sierra 2500
ProPride 3P
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04-04-2018, 07:44 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Forest River Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: So Calif
Posts: 3,521
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I've used the toggle bolts as well....no body pullups though
For light stuff, 3M command hooks work well.
__________________
2020 Coachmen Leprechaun 270QB (COA Member)
Jeep Wrangler toad for the dirt
"Well done is better than well said"....Ben Franklin
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04-04-2018, 11:24 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 2,582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuquala
This the style I use. Don't need real long ones, just about 1-1/2" or so. I have a tool that expands them in the wall without them trying to turn in the thin wood. It is a automotive door panel removal tool. Makes it real easy to do, since they want to turn in thin stuff before expanding fully sometimes. When in they really hold!!
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For the repair those are what I'd use as well. They are available in a number of sizes for the thickness of the panel they are being used on. The ones I use come with a little 'wrench' for holding it in place while tightening the screw to expand the wings.
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04-04-2018, 11:46 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 3,542
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I question how much weight carrying ability the paneling is going to have, even with decent wall anchors used. A clothes pole can end up with a lot of weight on it, plus the additional tugging that invariably will happen as clothes are added and removed.
I might lean towards putting a 1x4 full length in the closet, and screw through to the rafters so that you're sure you've got good strong mounts.
Sand and then paint or stain the board, if you've got access to a router you could even pretty-up the exposed corners so it looks less like a chunk of unfinished wood hanging there. It's more work, but ultimately would give a stronger place to fasten the clothes pole - and done with a bit of care it shouldn't look too bad. (certainly better than holes in the paneling if/when the anchors pull through)
__________________
2013 Winnebago Sightseer 36V
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04-04-2018, 01:49 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Idaho
Posts: 151
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Well that's part of the problem this isn't a clothes pole it's more like a piece of angled metal with holes in it that is screwed into the ceiling itself there is only one rafter that goes through that closet in the middle so I guess I could add a pole versus what's already there. I thought of putting a 1 by 3 securing it to the ceiling first like you were suggesting but there are no good attachment points so it doesn't really make a difference unless I ran wood down the sides of the closet to support it on the ends. That's still a possibility I'm thinking about.
John
__________________
John
2022 ORV 24RKS
2003 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9 CRD 4x4 Quad cab 6sp. SB. SRW.
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04-04-2018, 01:58 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Idaho
Posts: 151
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We do use the command style hooks for some things but I like a actual coat rack on the wall it's larger hooks work better for coats. Our trailer has a great spot right by the door that is unused and works perfect.
Thank you for the suggestion, I appreciate it, options are always good
John
__________________
John
2022 ORV 24RKS
2003 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9 CRD 4x4 Quad cab 6sp. SB. SRW.
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