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keymastr · 05-28-2022, 11:42 AM

Had a leaky toilet valve and need to drop the coroplast and check for water/wet insulation. I have heard some folks use a catspaw to pry it down and others use a drill. Which is easier?

Cumminsfan · 05-28-2022, 12:56 PM

If the pins are shot on like mine I used a cold chisel.
I couldn't find any quality self drilling screws that would work without snapping the head or burning out before penetrating the flange so I predrilled and used some self tapping hex screws.
One big PITA. I would think dealers doing warranty work wouldn't be happy either.

Old-Biscuit · 05-28-2022, 12:59 PM

I use a battery powered drill with a 5/16" socket to unscrew the self-tapping screws

What was used to secure your underbelly?
Screws, Rivets etc

Rivets/drill them out...takes more time but lot less damage to the coroplast

Option w/o removing underbelly
Cut 3 sided 'window' large enough to perform needed repairs
Uncut 4th side towards the front them gorilla tape/flex tape etc to close back up

I did that to replace a gear on one slideout 10 yrs ago

keymastr · 05-28-2022, 01:01 PM

sure is a PITA. Did you use the chisel to pull them out or just chisel the head off and re-attach in a different spot? Wondering if a catspaw would pull them out.

keymastr · 05-28-2022, 01:04 PM

They appear to be nails

keymastr · 05-28-2022, 01:13 PM

Looks like a nail

Old-Biscuit · 05-28-2022, 01:23 PM

Those are 'nails' ,,,,SHOT into the frame

Cold Chisel will work....lots of pounding

Grinder with cut off wheel.........DONE

Reattaching...drill new holes then screws with those large fender washers

keymastr · 05-28-2022, 01:54 PM

Thanks for the info, guess I will be getting a cutoff wheel

Cumminsfan · 05-28-2022, 02:52 PM

Old Biscuit nailed it. Yes pun intended.
When I used the cold chisel after a few hits the pin curls out and a hit or two later it's completely out. I used a small 3-4# sledge hammer.
When I was still working as a carpenter doing metal studs and such, we used pneumatic nailers to drive those pins. Way way faster than screwing hex heads in.

GPCPL · 05-28-2022, 04:13 PM

I've used the cats paw to remove the pins, and reattached the coroplast using either a #8 or a #10 self tapping screw and a fender washer through the pin hole. It takes a while, but now I can drop the coroplast if I need to get at something.

Vintage465 · 05-28-2022, 05:17 PM

I used a 4-1/2" "peanut grinder" Buzzed them right off.

DaddyRV779 · 05-28-2022, 09:10 PM

I would try an impact cutter

jimmystoys · 05-28-2022, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

I use a battery powered drill with a 5/16" socket to unscrew the self-tapping screws

What was used to secure your underbelly?
Screws, Rivets etc
Rivets/drill them out...takes more time but lot less damage to the coroplast
Option w/o removing underbelly
Cut 3 sided 'window' large enough to perform needed repairs
Uncut 4th side towards the front them gorilla tape/flex tape etc to close back up

Old Biscuit has the right idea. I did the same when I had issues with my sewer valve. I cut open a large enough window to access them. Actually made a few cuts but never removed any coroplast. Then I used a chrome tape to rejoin the original seams. This stuff is amazing and sticky. After that, I cut a new large enough piece to cover everything. I'm anal and like to completely seal things. I used a little bit of silicone to seal it out of the elements when travelling. In the future if I have issues I can just remove the panel for easy access. I completed it with screws and large enough washers as to not suck through the coroplast. Was easy but a bit time consuming. You get to 'bond' with your undercarriage lol. Hope the pics help.

jimmystoys · 05-28-2022, 09:25 PM

I'll just add that if those old rusty bolts/nails get in the way, just buzz them off with a grinder and reinstall new ones. Easier and quicker than fiddling with old rusty stuff as Vintage said.