Community Forums

lexton · 09-28-2021, 06:18 PM

Just purchased a 24RLS. I am mounting a generator at the rear on the factory installed hitch. I need to run a cable from the genny up to front curb side to go up into the area where all of the electrical connections are made underneath the closet by the outside door. Installing an automatic transfer switch there. Having looked at the underneath it seems that I would have to open up that corrugated plastic bottom to run the wire. And I really don't see a good way to do that. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

WNDOPDLR · 09-28-2021, 06:57 PM

Depending on the year of your TT, the coroplast(?) is either riveted or held in place with screws. Removing the rivets is doable but a lot of work. Can you run your wires inside PVC pipe underneath the trailer with the PVC held in place with Adel clamps ?https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HPE185E...mcd_asin_0_img

We carry on generator on the rear hitch, but I just made a short jumper to get to the plug-in at the rear. I do not have your transfer switch, but my system works for me.

lexton · 09-29-2021, 09:28 AM

It's a 2019. It is rivets. Why they use rivets and not screws is beyond me. It makes it much more difficult to get in there to do repairs or to add anything. Another example of engineers not having to work on it in real life.

Running PVC was my choice, if I could not find a way to run the cable underneath. Thanks for the link to the hangers. I was going to use a conduit strap. The Hangers are much better.

BPTS · 09-29-2021, 10:18 AM

Look up under the trailer outboard of the main beams. If you look where the supports for the floor attach to the web of the I beam frame members there is a hole in them.
I used those holes when I ran some PEX tubing from the front to the rear as "conduit" for my back up light wiring.
No need for hangars.
I had to open a couple of them up a hair with a die grinder/rotary file to get the PEX through.
No reason you cant open them up enough for 1/2 PVC conduit but the PEX is much more flexible and easier to weasel up through the brackets.
I was originally going to use 1/2 PVC but the "biatch factor" of wrestling it up through them made me go with the PEX.

egwilly · 10-01-2021, 05:15 PM

I run most of my wiring outside underneath between the flooring and skirt area. Lots of room there.

I drill up thru the flooring to run the wire into the area I need and then seal it with silicone. Out of sight and mind. Tape measure for better results!

JHinman · 10-01-2021, 05:46 PM

I started to fish some Romex between the Coroplast and the floor framing, then pulled it out and attached metal conduit to the trailer frame. I used single-hole conduit hangers, and watertight unions where I needed splices and bends. It stood up to some extremely rough roads.

I used Romex in the conduit, but should have used individual wires. Romex is not rated for wet locations, but some of the single-conductor stuff is. Building codes prohibit Romex in exterior conduit, although those codes do not apply to a travel trailer.

Individual conductors are much easier to pull in conduit. Putting two 10-ga Romex in a single conduit was a chore, even though I did exceed the conduit fill limits.

LearningMore · 10-02-2021, 12:19 AM

I appreciate reading all the ideas here. I am about to install an inverter in the passthrough up front and need to run a wire from there to the converter/load center where I am installing an automatic transfer switch.

I traded messages with another member here and decided that dropping the Coroplast was more than I had time and skills to do well. I am planning to run flex conduit under the trailer in the small ledge on the I-Beam of the chassis. Not sure this will work, but this is my starting point. I'll see if I can take and post a few pictures showing where I hope to run the conduit. For sure I will post more as I work on the project.

Total project includes:

2 x 190 solar on the roof (nominal 24v panels wired in parallel)
Victron MPPT charge controller
Victron Battery Monitor
2000w Samlex inverter w/ remote on/off switch
2 x 6v US Battery golf cart batteries (232 ah)

Lots of little bits to figure out still but I am optimistic.

JHinman · 10-02-2021, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHinman

Individual conductors are much easier to pull in conduit. Putting two 10-ga Romex in a single conduit was a chore, even though I did NOT exceed the conduit fill limits.

Oops. Missed a significant word in my post.

JHinman · 10-02-2021, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LearningMore

I appreciate reading all the ideas here. I am about to install an inverter in the passthrough up front and need to run a wire from there to the converter/load center where I am installing an automatic transfer switch.

I did something similar in a 24KRS. I picked up the incoming shore power behind the load center and ran it to a hybrid inverter (Victron Multiplus 3KW) in the pass-through, and then back to the load center. That gave me AC power to everything in the trailer, and uses the Victron for battery charging. The inverter has an ATS already, so I bypassed the original ATS.

You might see if your inverter has a bypass switch.

sibe · 10-02-2021, 07:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LearningMore

I appreciate reading all the ideas here. I am about to install an inverter in the passthrough up front and need to run a wire from there to the converter/load center where I am installing an automatic transfer switch.

I traded messages with another member here and decided that dropping the Coroplast was more than I had time and skills to do well. I am planning to run flex conduit under the trailer in the small ledge on the I-Beam of the chassis. Not sure this will work, but this is my starting point. I'll see if I can take and post a few pictures showing where I hope to run the conduit. For sure I will post more as I work on the project.

Total project includes:

2 x 190 solar on the roof (nominal 24v panels wired in parallel)
Victron MPPT charge controller
Victron Battery Monitor
2000w Samlex inverter w/ remote on/off switch
2 x 6v US Battery golf cart batteries (232 ah)

Lots of little bits to figure out still but I am optimistic.

depending on the RV, I was able to run my solar wires down next to my shower vent pipe as it popped thru roof.. there was enough space i found the void in wall. got be down to access area, grabbed wires to compartment.. my other choice was above refridge,

Under body i also used pvc electrical pipe..or flex

egwilly · 10-02-2021, 07:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHinman

I did something similar in a 24KRS. I picked up the incoming shore power behind the load center and ran it to a hybrid inverter (Victron Multiplus 3KW) in the pass-through, and then back to the load center. That gave me AC power to everything in the trailer, and uses the Victron for battery charging. The inverter has an ATS already, so I bypassed the original ATS.

You might see if your inverter has a bypass switch.

What happens if your inverter fails? Is all AC power cut to the rv?

JHinman · 10-02-2021, 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by egwilly

What happens if your inverter fails? Is all AC power cut to the rv?

Yes, but that is not an issue for us. We normally dry camp, with nothing but 12volt power. Having access to 120v is a luxury, not a necessity.

Anything can fail. Most things can be repaired or other adaptations made.

LearningMore · 10-02-2021, 12:55 PM

Here are pictures of my prototype with the conduit clamped in place. I have one hole straps to hold the conduit and self tapping stainless screws to screw into the chassis. Feeling better about this choice. The 1/2" flex fits nicely in the "shelf" on the chassis and I will have good access to the area in the pass through where the inverter power will exit. The conduit will go to the other end of the trailer, where the converter is under the refrigerator. I may run the wire for the remote on/off in this conduit too. I am running outdoor rated 12/2 cable.

Anything I should be worried about/considering in this choice?

lexton · 10-04-2021, 01:49 PM

12/2 when I was an electrician was rated at 20 Amps, so I guess it depends on what you going to run on the 12/2 cable. To run the entire trailer on 30 amps, you need 10 gauge wire. You also have to consider the size of the conduit when choosing the wire capabilities. You can check online with the National Electric Code Handbook to see the amperage capabilities of the wire as well as the size of the conduit needed for the amount of conductors for that wire.