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Old 01-16-2025, 03:42 PM   #43
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I don't understand the OP's concern. He said he has Battleborn heated batteries. Here's the information on Battleborn's website.

"This 100Ah 12V Heated LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery Kit by Battle Born Batteries delivers superior and long-lasting performance! Equipped with a proprietary, low draw internal heating technology, this battery is ready to charge and provide superior power no matter the cold weather you may face."
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Old 01-16-2025, 04:26 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dana D View Post
I don't understand the OP's concern. He said he has Battleborn heated batteries. Here's the information on Battleborn's website.

"This 100Ah 12V Heated LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery Kit by Battle Born Batteries delivers superior and long-lasting performance! Equipped with a proprietary, low draw internal heating technology, this battery is ready to charge and provide superior power no matter the cold weather you may face."
There is the marketing and then there is the user experience reality. What is the recovery time and power required once the battery goes below cutoff temperature? Keep in mind that once they go to cut off they do not turn back on just above freezing. Most will need to get the temp at the top, near the BMS to 40 or 50F before charging can resume. Can't speak for the baby 100 A/H batteries. For the 300 and 400 A/H expect this could be a 4-hour event to get them back.
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Old 01-17-2025, 09:22 AM   #45
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Summary of OP posts:

• I may have to place four Battleborn batteries in the forward pass through compartment of a 19MKS. I may not have enough space under the dinette seats in a 19MKS trailer to place the batteries plus other equipment. The inverter is already planned for the pass through.

• All I need to do is keep the interior of that box above 13 F for the internal heaters to do everything.

• Yes the trailer will be heated with the propane furnace.

• What I've done before and may do in this case to place 12v 25 watt heating pads on metal plates air gaped below the batteries in an insulated box.

• I may find that the internally heated batteries in an insulated box will perform just fine down to my lower camping limits of about 0 F.

• My proposal is to air gap the heating pad about 1/2" below the bottom of the battery with an aluminum plate in between for heat distribution. Basically warming the battery with warm air only. The battery would be supported by a frame on all four sides with a section open in the bottom of the supporting structure. Like a large rectangular washer. Warm air could also flow over the sides and top.
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Old 01-17-2025, 10:54 AM   #46
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Yep. I'd still rather just make the passthrough storage a heated space off the propane furnace (either ducted or transferred)

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Old 01-17-2025, 12:57 PM   #47
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Can't believe it. Buy the best heated battery that there is, then buy a new OutDoor RV trailer try to hook into the furnace some way & heat the crawl through. I guess I am missing something here. If the battery heaters are turned on & left on you should have no problem down to zero or -10. Stated that he has a generator, which will charge those batteries right up. Why would you want to dump heat from the furnace in there when the furnace will hardly keep the RV warm @ 10 below???? What are you going to do carry extra propane tanks? What if the furnace quits? What are you going to do then? Makes no sense at all to heat the pass through. And doesn't that small of a RV have a smaller furnace? Than the larger RV's? I think so. So, lets add more duct work to it and then work it to death. Yep, that is definitely what I would do. LOL
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Old 01-17-2025, 01:02 PM   #48
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Li batteries in the pass through…

We have an ORV 22FQS, and have installed a 5100w, 48v Li battery with an all-in-one charger/inverter/solar converter, all installed in the pass through. We have 800 watts of solar on the roof dedicated to this system, with another 200 watts charging 2 - 105 ah Epoch Li batteries. Right now we use the larger system as a power station, and use the 30amp cord to plug it into the trailer. When that system is running the trailer, it also charges the Epochs. I know, not the most efficient set up, but so far, it works for us.

My major concern regarding freezing temps centers on storing the trailer in Wisconsin when we cannot get “out there” for whatever reason in the winter. Temps can go to -20, well below storage temps recommended by the battery makers (around +10). My solution was to add a 110v plug to the pass through, and get a 300 watt space heater and a thermo switch that turns it on at 35 and turns it off at 40. These items are available on Amazon… don’t have the details handy right now. ORV’s have pretty nice insulation in the floor, walls, and pass through doors, and that 300 watt heater works really well at heating the small pass through space.

Hope this helps!

Bob.
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Old 01-17-2025, 01:38 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by Russ Olin View Post
Can't believe it. Buy the best heated battery that there is, then buy a new OutDoor RV trailer try to hook into the furnace some way & heat the crawl through. I guess I am missing something here. If the battery heaters are turned on & left on you should have no problem down to zero or -10. Stated that he has a generator, which will charge those batteries right up. Why would you want to dump heat from the furnace in there when the furnace will hardly keep the RV warm @ 10 below???? What are you going to do carry extra propane tanks? What if the furnace quits? What are you going to do then? Makes no sense at all to heat the pass through. And doesn't that small of a RV have a smaller furnace? Than the larger RV's? I think so. So, lets add more duct work to it and then work it to death. Yep, that is definitely what I would do. LOL
The pass through is an insulated space that has maybe 50 cubic ft of area vs. the rest of the trailer's 1,600 cubic feet so it will take maybe 3% more BTUH to heat the pass through to the same temp as the rest of the trailer.....but you don't need it to be the same temp so the impact is even less - basically negligible. You also don't need to change or modify the ductwork, but instead simply allow for some conditioned air to transfer through the space.

No extra propane tanks required. If the furnace quits in sub zero temps, you have bigger problems than not being able to charge your batteries.

Sure you can get lithiums that have heaters in them but I'd much rather use propane to keep the batteries warm than use up battery power......which is why most people put thier lithiums inside either under the bed or dinette. The only reason the OP is considering the pass through is because he doesn't have a permanent space under his bed nor room under his dinette.

Knowing what temps the pass through gets to in various ambient conditions with the furnace maintaining occupied set point should shed more light on whether or not you even need to bother allowing more heat into the pass through. I think I'd add a couple grills just to make sure.

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Old 01-17-2025, 02:08 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by Dave Pelletier View Post
The pass through is an insulated space that has maybe 50 cubic ft of area vs. the rest of the trailer's 1,600 cubic feet so it will take maybe 3% more BTUH to heat the pass through to the same temp as the rest of the trailer.....but you don't need it to be the same temp so the impact is even less - basically negligible. You also don't need to change or modify the ductwork, but instead simply allow for some conditioned air to transfer through the space.

No extra propane tanks required. If the furnace quits in sub zero temps, you have bigger problems than not being able to charge your batteries.

Sure you can get lithiums that have heaters in them but I'd much rather use propane to keep the batteries warm than use up battery power......which is why most people put thier lithiums inside either under the bed or dinette. The only reason the OP is considering the pass through is because he doesn't have a permanent space under his bed nor room under his dinette.

Knowing what temps the pass through gets to in various ambient conditions with the furnace maintaining occupied set point should shed more light on whether or not you even need to bother allowing more heat into the pass through. I think I'd add a couple grills just to make sure.

Dave
All's I can say to this is that you are totally wrong. As stated I just went on a last season hunting trip in mid November for a week. Down to 10-15* at night. It wouldn't have mattered if it was zero, it would have been the same thing. Run the 2000 watt generator a few hours in the evening got up at 5am get ready to go hunting, lit the generator & the batteries were back fully charged in45 mins. Why I also watched the news on the TV. The 170 Watt ZAMP panel kept the batteries charged up all day. I don't see what the problem is. To tell you the truth I couldn't tell the battery heaters were on. That is what these batteries were built for. By the way the more that the furnace runs, doesn't that use the BATTERY? Just asking for a friend. Some people have more ambition than real world experience.
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Old 01-17-2025, 02:54 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by Russ Olin View Post
All's I can say to this is that you are totally wrong. As stated I just went on a last season hunting trip in mid November for a week. Down to 10-15* at night. It wouldn't have mattered if it was zero, it would have been the same thing. Run the 2000 watt generator a few hours in the evening got up at 5am get ready to go hunting, lit the generator & the batteries were back fully charged in45 mins. Why I also watched the news on the TV. The 170 Watt ZAMP panel kept the batteries charged up all day. I don't see what the problem is. To tell you the truth I couldn't tell the battery heaters were on. That is what these batteries were built for. By the way the more that the furnace runs, doesn't that use the BATTERY? Just asking for a friend. Some people have more ambition than real world experience.
Ignoring your passive/aggressive jabs, I'll ask; wrong about what, exactly? Nobody said his batteries wouldn't work in the unheated pass through. Not everyone wants to or is able to run a generator.

...and yes the furnace blower uses battery power though, as I said, it wouldn't run a measurable amount more due to transferring a bit of air through the small pass through space....certainly less power than the battery heaters would take.

When I go to lithium, I'm putting them under the bed because it's better to keep them in a conditioned space. If I had to put them in the pass through, I'd consider a couple of grills in the insulated space to keep the temps closer to the rest of the trailer interior.

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Old 01-17-2025, 04:20 PM   #52
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As the expert above says, he doesn't even have lithium batteries. Yet, he knows everything. Says the furnace running uses less power than the battery heaters do. BS
Nothing uses MORE power at night than the furnace does in a RV. I know. Been there & done that for 25 years. Buy Battle Born, buy the best. Put them in the crawl through or out front (where they can be stolen). Insulate the batteries, camp out, turn on the heaters. And FORGET ABOUT IT!!!
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Old 01-17-2025, 05:28 PM   #53
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As the expert above says, he doesn't even have lithium batteries. Yet, he knows everything. Says the furnace running uses less power than the battery heaters do. BS
Nothing uses MORE power at night than the furnace does in a RV. I know. Been there & done that for 25 years. Buy Battle Born, buy the best. Put them in the crawl through or out front (where they can be stolen). Insulate the batteries, camp out, turn on the heaters. And FORGET ABOUT IT!!!
Cheers,
Russ
Sigh; OK I'm done with you. ....weird because I've had positive interaction with you on some of your previous postings.

I never said I was an expert on anything though If I am it's on heating and ventilating because I am a tradesman and own an HVAC company....been doing it for 38 years now.

Read carefully: I said that the battery heaters would use more electricity than the nominal amount of furnace blower run time necessitated by keeping the insulated pass through closer to the trailer's interior temperature. I did NOT say the battery heaters use more power than the furnace blower does...that would be wrong....and silly.


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Old 01-17-2025, 11:57 PM   #54
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If you are already keeping the living space of the trailer warm with the furnace, you build an insulated battery box in the passthrough using the dividing wall as one side of the box with an air grate allowing it to warm said insulated box. How much longer do you think the furnace will have to run? A minute or two at most? If at all? KISS

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Old 01-18-2025, 07:45 AM   #55
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For a little reference, Thompsons RV sales in Oregon sells more Out Door RV's than any one combined. There experts in their field. They sock & sell Battle Born batteries as their battery of choice. And guess where they install them? They install 3 Battle Born out on the tongue in a metal battery box they have built to fit the batteries in the RV. They do 100's every year. So how do they get by with their batteries out on the tongue? Easy, they flip the switch put on the battery heaters & forget about it. And no they wont put them under the bed. Don't want to be responsible for some one getting French fried, I guess. They also sell that metal box if anyone is interested.
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Old 01-19-2025, 10:45 AM   #56
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Data for Storage

Measured temperatures for 21RBS Anniversary:

Camper 62F
Storage 42F
Outside 24F windchill 19F
Battery 51F (battery turned off and no heaters on)

I had storage door open for a while and camper was 54F for a while which may have lowered storage temps some.

Batteries are very well insulated R12? and yesterday was about 55F

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