Community Forums

miniceptor86 · 05-11-2017, 05:54 AM

Downwiindtrac,

I would like to replace the dinette cushions with firmer foam but don't know what to order. Can you tell me what you used?

LBZYA · 05-11-2017, 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downwindtrac

No, computers are not in my skill set. Welding is. But I can describe it. It's a 1"diameter, 48" wide U. The sides are 16" long. It came off the front of a Dodge van. I used the bushings and legs the van. For the cross bar I used a 2"x2"x 1/4" square tube which I bolted on .

I also added a sway bar to the rear of our '08 Ram 3500. Between the two, the raised trailer now tows great.

This is very interesting. This the first I have heard of a sway bar on a trailer. It makes perfect sense, for trailers are very top heavy. I have a mental picture of how you connected it to the frame, but how did you connected the links to the axle? Also, what year dodge van did you rob the parts from?

LBZYA · 05-11-2017, 07:48 AM

So I found a mock up picture, is this what you ended up doing?

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**JohnRR** · 05-11-2017, 08:00 AM

I'm thinking that red beam is not positioned for maximum strength.

I'd more consider turning it on its side with short sides top and bottom, weld a plate on each end of it and bolt it inside the frame rails instead of welding.

Downwindtrac · 05-11-2017, 10:20 AM

Dodge didn't change the van much, in what 30 years? I took it off the latest round nosed one in the pick-a-part. It was cleanest. I put a 2"x2"x1/4" spacer between the frame and the cross bar. I welded on a couple of bases on the cross bar for the bushing clamps . And I used the links and bushings from the van. For axel end I made a couple of clamps. I think I overbuilt them. The set up on the van was pretty simple, that's why I chose that anti sway bar.

We went into a foam shop and got them to put extra firm foam in the covers. When we got home and tested it, we should have gotten firm. At least we won't be sitting on the plywood anymore. I know it's not plywood, just cut outs.

LBZYA · 05-11-2017, 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnRR

I'm thinking that red beam is not positioned for maximum strength.

I'd more consider turning it on its side with short sides top and bottom, weld a plate on each end of it and bolt it inside the frame rails instead of welding.

That was a picture I found on the web. I agree, 1/4 wall tubing would much more stout. It seems that when ever I do metal projects I overbuild as well. Things turn out to be very heavy for some reason. However, it all ends up working in the end.

**JohnRR** · 05-11-2017, 05:10 PM

I hear you and understand about "overbuild".

egwilly · 05-12-2017, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hi1pockets

Installed a MorRyde cargo tray today. So much easier organizing things

Attachment 159818

Looks good! Lets see a pic with stuff in it.
Thinking about this in mine.

egwilly · 05-12-2017, 04:56 PM

Not sure if anyone has done this......
Got tired of wild body contortions to open galley drain valve in Glacier Peak, so I added a twist off cover in line with valve handle. Now I just reach in and pull!
Sorry for sideways pic, not sure why they come out that way.

dexters · 05-12-2017, 05:37 PM

Added room darkening curtains to the bedroom windows.

lmm chris · 05-14-2017, 12:41 PM

Does anyone have any recommendations on new tounge Jack's, that actually reach the ground with out using a bunch of blocks?

My car trailer, and dump trailer don't have this problem, I get the frame is really high on these, but why not include a jack that works with it

PRT · 05-14-2017, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by egwilly

Not sure if anyone has done this......
Got tired of wild body contortions to open galley drain valve in Glacier Peak, so I added a twist off cover in line with valve handle. Now I just reach in and pull!
Sorry for sideways pic, not sure why they come out that way.

Nice job. I have also been thinking of doing something similar. Seeing this makes me want to do this pretty quick as it is hard on back and neck getting down there to open valve. Not getting younger. LOL

brulaz · 05-15-2017, 06:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lmm chris

Does anyone have any recommendations on new tounge Jack's, that actually reach the ground with out using a bunch of blocks?

My car trailer, and dump trailer don't have this problem, I get the frame is really high on these, but why not include a jack that works with it

You can get extensions. Curt's Jack Foot adds upto 8.5". At Camping World for about $20.

And some jacks come with an extendable foot, like the 5000# Stromberg Carlson with a 5" extension.

But we've been on sites where even 8.5" wouldn't have been enough to level the trailer. Ended up extending the jack as far as possible, temporarily propping up the tongue with something, retracting the tongue jack, stacking firewood under its foot, and repeat. Making sure the trailer didn't roll forward was also interesting.

hi1pockets · 05-15-2017, 08:57 AM

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UOTE=egwilly;3595367]Looks good! Lets see a pic with stuff in it.
Thinking about this in mine.[/QUOTE]

Moving the generators from the front to the tray made it a lot easier getting them in and out. With all the extra space in the front we were able to stack 4 chairs on their ends and add the propane firepit too. We ran a bungee cord from one side to the other to keep the chairs in place...