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Old 10-23-2020, 11:18 PM   #1597
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Nice job, Sir. i would love to put a USB charging strip in our TT as well. We have a similar 12V TV over the fireplace. Where did you tap into? I assume there is a 12v constant behind the TV somewhere? What did you run for fuses? What are the wattage you installed? It seems that every new phone requires more watts than the prior. Much appreciated.!!
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Old 10-24-2020, 09:29 AM   #1598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Ivar View Post
Nice job, Sir. i would love to put a USB charging strip in our TT as well. We have a similar 12V TV over the fireplace. Where did you tap into? I assume there is a 12v constant behind the TV somewhere? What did you run for fuses? What are the wattage you installed? It seems that every new phone requires more watts than the prior. Much appreciated.!!
If you are referring to my post, there are a variety of power options behind the TV/Entertainment Center. I tapped into the power to the subwoofer because it was in a convenient location. There was already a spade type fuse in that wire so I used a "piggy back fuse tap" to tap in. No splicing required. These piggy back taps include a fuse slot for the original wire and a fuse slot for your new wire (the charging ports). https://www.amazon.com/Pixnor-Circui...34676336&psc=1
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Old 10-25-2020, 10:21 AM   #1599
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really like this, did you prime first? And, can you tell me types of paint you used? Thanks much

I used Sherwin Williams paints on the cabinets. The primer was "Extreme Bond Primer" and is good for latex and urethane paints. I sanded everything down with 150 grit paper--the flat luan panels needed to be completely sanded, the finish ORV uses is very good quality and must be completely removed for the primer to adhere smoothly. After it dried I sanded the primer lightly with 180 grit and used a 3/16 in. nap 4 in. roller to put the two urethane coats of finish on. Finish was SW Urethane Trim Enamel.
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Old 10-25-2020, 12:00 PM   #1600
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I used Sherwin Williams paints on the cabinets. The primer was "Extreme Bond Primer" and is good for latex and urethane paints. I sanded everything down with 150 grit paper--the flat luan panels needed to be completely sanded, the finish ORV uses is very good quality and must be completely removed for the primer to adhere smoothly. After it dried I sanded the primer lightly with 180 grit and used a 3/16 in. nap 4 in. roller to put the two urethane coats of finish on. Finish was SW Urethane Trim Enamel.
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Old 11-04-2020, 10:09 PM   #1601
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Air-Powered Table Pedestals

I recently travelled with my step-mother for a couple weeks. We had a great time, but we used the dinette bed every night and the switch from table to bed and back was a chore. I replaced the fixed dinette pedestals in my 21RWS with a pair of Springfield 3-Stage Air-Powered Table Pedestals. I purchased the air-powered pedestals from Cascade Depot on sale.
I traced the outline of the original top pedestal support (where it attaches under the table) so I could place the new (differently shaped) table support in the same position. The only potential gotcha to this upgrade is that the table is not a solid piece of wood as you might guess from the weight. There are reinforcements sandwiched in the middle to support the original (smaller) table attachments. Therefore, you need to place the new table support very carefully to align the new screws under the reinforced section of the table - use a stud finder to find the reinforcement before you drill.
I attached the new pedestals to the bottom of the table then flipped it right-side-up and placed the table into position. We checked that the compressed pedestal position fit onto the ledges that hold the table when it is in the bed position then attached both pedestals to the floor. This upgrade was a bit pricey, but it pays off in healthy back muscles, fingers that aren't pinched, and not damaging the table.
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Old 11-15-2020, 10:38 AM   #1602
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The under-counter water filter is installed and ready to go. Just waiting now on the missing supply line to arrive to make the final connection from the filter to the faucet.
@ttavasc, To finish the installation of my water filter I need to purchase a T connector to connect the filter to the water line. I can see this part in your picture and I've attached a screenshot. This didn't come with my filter kit. Are you able to provide the description or part number for this so I can pick it up at the hardware store?
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Old 11-15-2020, 12:15 PM   #1603
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Originally Posted by LHresko View Post
@ttavasc, To finish the installation of my water filter I need to purchase a T connector to connect the filter to the water line. I can see this part in your picture and I've attached a screenshot. This didn't come with my filter kit. Are you able to provide the description or part number for this so I can pick it up at the hardware store?
That is a John Guest Speedfit fitting that came with my filter kit. Here is the link to the John Guest web site:

John Guest Speedfit Plumbing

I have seen an assortment of John Guest components in stock at Home Depot so hopefully you can find something local without much trouble. Also, if you are having trouble finding exactly what you need you might check with customer support at the RV Water Filter Store which is where I got my kit. Since they are bundling the John Guest components with their filters they should be able to confirm which fitting you need:

RV Water Filter Store
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Old 11-22-2020, 04:45 PM   #1604
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Big job here! New Oxygenics - sure makes a yuge difference but it seems like it’s putting out 3x as much water too so DW is under the strictest Navy Showers orders! That instant off valve works so much better than the OEM one!


PS:
LHresko, thanks for the inspiration to spend more $$$! Gotta say the one in our 21RWS is not the high point of the trailer. At least it is solid and, to be honest, we haven't used it as a bed yet. I tried removing the table once but it didn't want to budge. I only gave it 10 seconds of effort which is about my limit for patience.
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Old 11-23-2020, 07:36 AM   #1605
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This link is to a shut off I saw in here a good while back and its a winner as well. Just have to install it between the manifold and the hose and instant on or off, no dripping, and when turne back on no waiting for hot water. Can turn water on or off blindfolded while in te shower and never lose the temp settings...

https://nam12.safelinks.protection.o...%3D&reserved=0

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Old 11-24-2020, 02:55 PM   #1606
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Looks like it's time to get a new trailer. My Atwood propane detector has failed. Not sure it's worth the work and cost to replace it. LOL.
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Old 11-25-2020, 04:16 PM   #1607
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Looks like it's time to get a new trailer. My Atwood propane detector has failed. Not sure it's worth the work and cost to replace it. LOL.
Hey Highway 4x4,

I have read many of your posts in the past. Looks like you are looking for an excuse to trade your unit in for a new one.
May this be the final staw???
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Old 11-26-2020, 08:06 AM   #1608
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ktmoore,
Just curious, is yours the GP? If so one of the most grateful mods I did on mine was the hot water to the bathroom. Yours is newer so may be they addressed that in the last couple of years. enjoy the trailer,
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Old 11-26-2020, 10:43 AM   #1609
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F28RKS modifications

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ktmoore,
Just curious, is yours the GP? If so one of the most grateful mods I did on mine was the hot water to the bathroom. Yours is newer so may be they addressed that in the last couple of years. enjoy the trailer,
Kasey

Hey GP28,

Yes, my trailer is the GP (Glacier Peak) F28RKS as shown in my signature.

My favorite factory upgrades in the past couple of years are:
1. The 6-point leveling system.
2. Three-way switch for water pump. One switch on the panel and the other in the bathroom.
3. Upgraded converter. They now use Progressive Dynamics.
4. Exterior door for garbage. This is an older upgrade but very much appreciated.

The mod's I have made below. Some of these I give credit to Tuquala but I added my own touches to each.
1. Drawers in 1/2 the closet slide. The other side the door middle was cut out and replaced with mirror for the wife.
2. RV Snap pads for the leveling feet.
3. plastic carrier for sewer hose in the middle of the underbelly, next to the central sewer valve.
4. Hot water to the bathroom (as you refer to) with a main switch and override thermostatic switch in to shut off when desired temp. is reached. Total setup (thermo valve, pump, and wiring) is hidden behind the factory hatch below the sink. My main switch is in the lower cabinet below and to the right if the sink for easy access when sitting on the toilet.
5. Connect rear sewer outlet to main central outlet for a single outlet. This works very well in the 5th wheel due to the 8” dropped frame. This creates a lot of slope that you can not accomplish with the TT.
6. Shelf in front storage bay. BTW my rare dislike of these units is the sewer valve handles in this area.
7. Dividers under the kitchen sink for pan and tray storage.
8. Water filter under kitchen sink.
9. Dividers in one of the booth drawers to organize and hold items during travel. The other left as-is for pots.
10. 120V ceiling fan. 42” ceiling hugger just behind the a/c. This is a complicated project because you need to get wire from the non-existent front a/c and reinforce the roof trusses. Wife HAD to have this because she used it all the time in our old trailer and the maxx fans blowing down just does not compare.
11. Exterior baggage doors for the booth seat storage. I also added a 120v plugin receptacle in the rear area c/w USB ports for charging our E-bike batteries. I purchased outside shower doors from the factory (reasonable price) and replaced the latches with proper locks. This way the color matched the grey titanium color and they are the 1” thick, like all the rest. There is significant cutting involved. The opening requires 11” high and the aluminum studs have only 10” between. Therefore, it requires 0.5” cut on both the upper stud and the lower stud. When you caulk and screw in the new doors the wall will be easily just as strong (likely stronger) due to the frame connecting both studs.
12. Replaced all the ceiling puck lights with larger 4” units with higher lumens. Much better lighting in this dark trailer.
13. Added a dimmer switch to the 3-light bank over the couch.
14. Extra shelves in most of the overhead cabinets. Both in the kitchen and the bathroom.
15. Added extra shelf in the bathroom vanity on the long portion left of the sink. Great for TP storage.
16. Removed about 60% of the exterior decals. Makes for a much cleaner look. All my family including extended family have commented that it looks significantly better and I will have much less to deal with in future years with fade and haze.
17. Real tile (2” high by 4” wide) backslash for kitchen and bathroom. Used ployblend sanded tile caulk instead of grout and looks exactly like grout but flexible. One year and many travel miles later not a single crack or loose tile.

I love doing these types of projects and appreciate all that has been contributed to this forum. Thanks everyone!
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Old 11-27-2020, 09:18 AM   #1610
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Well, your a few up on me with mods

My biggest thing was installing a 4000W converter and 3 BB Batteries then wiring it in from pass thru from power panel by fridge and back. I also installed 4 200W solar panels ond did somew rewiring at pass thru panel, etc. We mostly dry camp so the battery power alone is great because can do everything without generator except running the A/C.
Wife can have codffey ready when she wakes up with coffeymaker on a timer, running the microwave, among some other conviencies
The A/C will work but just have to be on an external source of power, ie. generators (2 @ Yamaha A-i200) or shore power.
Tatuqula is a wealth of modifications info; had to back off reading his stuff as was getting too costly , LOL.
Kasey
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