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02-19-2024, 11:53 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 28,354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STDevil
Thanks for the lead on the Dino Boards. It looks like they sell through distributors only, and you need the get the number off of the back of the board. So I am going to go get all the numbers today and then see who I can source a board from.
I will keep everyone posted!
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Did you test the DC circuit as outlined in my post?
FYI...Dinosaur Electronics does NOT make a replacement circuit board for Norcold N8
__________________
I took my Medication today. HAVE YOU?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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02-22-2024, 02:48 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Washington (the one in the West)
Posts: 165
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Hi. No I have not been able to do the test because the last time I used the RV it was pretty cool outside and the fridge did not malfunction. But I plan to perform the test (which appears to be the same procedure as the one I outlined) the next time I can get the fridge to malfunction, which will likely be in the summer heat.
Rats about Dino boards. I did not see my part number on their website and suspected that they might not make a part for me...
__________________
RV = 2023 ORV 250RKS. Ordered in January 2022 and received in tip-top-shape in January 2023! Tow vehicle = 2021 F350 4WD with 6.7 Powerstroke.
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03-19-2024, 02:29 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Washington (the one in the West)
Posts: 165
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Just a quick update. I knew it would be tough to get some probes on each side of the snap-disk so I went ahead and spliced some test leads on to the wiring that goes to each side of the snap disk...then I turned the fridge on to confirm what I thought would happen.
- One side of the disk has 12 VDC.
- The other side does not.
This makes sense since the cooling fins are...cool.
- Connecting the two leads causes the little fan to turn on. That makes sense.
So over the summer, when/if the fridge malfunctions, I will see what I have at the leads.
- If I do not have voltage on the source side of the disk then I suppose the board is bad.
TEST: Run 12 VDC to the source side of the disk. If that causes the fridge to start working again, then I think that would confirm, the board is bad since it's not providing DC to the disk.
- If I do not have voltage on the load side of the snap disk then I suppose it's bad.
TEST: Short across the disk and see if the fridge starts working again. If it does, that would confirm a bad disk.
- If do have voltage on the load side of the disk then I suppose the fan's bad.
TEST: (Re) install my auxiliary fan kit and fire it up. If that causes the fridge to start working, then I suppose that confirms that the fan is bad.
__________________
RV = 2023 ORV 250RKS. Ordered in January 2022 and received in tip-top-shape in January 2023! Tow vehicle = 2021 F350 4WD with 6.7 Powerstroke.
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04-23-2024, 12:31 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Washington (the one in the West)
Posts: 165
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Well we went camping a week ago and when we got home, the fridge was not working. I jumpered across the snap disk, and the fan fired up, and about 1/2 hour later, the fridge was cool inside. I made a giant powerpoint to explain things and took it to the RV Dealer. I am going to drop the RV off week after next and they are going to look at the fridge again.
They are also going to send my powerpoint to NorCold...
We'll see what happens...
__________________
RV = 2023 ORV 250RKS. Ordered in January 2022 and received in tip-top-shape in January 2023! Tow vehicle = 2021 F350 4WD with 6.7 Powerstroke.
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04-23-2024, 12:57 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 28,354
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T-stat on COndenser FIN closes when the FIN temp reaches 135*F
T-stat then sends DC to fan
Fan helps move air up and across the Condenser FINS so the hot ammonia vapor is cooled into liquid ammonia
Liquid ammonia interacts with the Hydrogen Gas and flashes into cold vapor which then absorbs the heat from the freezer then food compartment
T-stat should have DC to it whenever fridge is turned ON
Fan only has DC when T-stat closes/Condenser FIN HOT
*T-stat opens at 115*F FIN temp
__________________
I took my Medication today. HAVE YOU?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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06-03-2024, 04:08 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Washington (the one in the West)
Posts: 165
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The saga continues. We were at Lake Easton this weekend and it was in the 50s. On the second day, I noticed the sweat on the fins in the fridge and the fan was not running.
I went to jumper the thermostat switch thing and the fan started up. The fins on the back of the fridge were not that hot at all. I don't think the unit was overheating.
I went back to the interwebs and read some posts about a periodic defrost cycle that may be causing the concern I am seeing. The author said he just powers the fridge off and on every morning and that solves the problem.
I did this for the next two days and did not experience any more problems.
I am still taking it back to the dealer. They are willing to try and help. If the issue is simply that the unit does an occasional defrost, that would be good to know.
__________________
RV = 2023 ORV 250RKS. Ordered in January 2022 and received in tip-top-shape in January 2023! Tow vehicle = 2021 F350 4WD with 6.7 Powerstroke.
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09-23-2024, 11:42 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Washington (the one in the West)
Posts: 165
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Well my fridge saga is over. I dropped the trailer off in mid June and the dealer tried to diagnose the problem with no luck (even after Norcold got involved and they pulled the fridge out). I offered to come up and live in the trailer and run to the shop and let them know when the malfunction was taking place, but they said I did not have to do that (even though I would be happy to).
After a couple of months of frustration for everyone, my salesperson got involved and we agreed to have a 12 V fridge installed. I paid a small portion of the cost but the dealer and ORV picked up most of it because as my salesperson said "We owe you a working refrigerator.".
Apache RV in Everett (Don in sales and Morgan in service) really went to work on this issue. Thankfully my concern was already on file from when I was in warranty. They also kept trying to find solutions even though they could not duplicate the issue. Finally, the install was done RIGHT. All of the wiring was upgraded and they went into the underbelly to route the wiring. It looks factory to me.
We went out for a couple of days to end the season and the fridge worked like a charm.
I have two 6V batteries now, and Apache said that should be good enough for what we do. But they said if we plan to do a lot of dry camping, that solar would be a good option and that is how they are equipping most of their RVs now. I definitely plan to go back to Apache over the winter and have them put some solar on. They will do the work right and deserve to make a buck or two after all the time they spent on the fridge...
Apache Everett did a great job of "service after the sale".
__________________
RV = 2023 ORV 250RKS. Ordered in January 2022 and received in tip-top-shape in January 2023! Tow vehicle = 2021 F350 4WD with 6.7 Powerstroke.
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09-23-2024, 02:39 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Kelowna, B.C. Canada
Posts: 3,769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STDevil
I have two 6V batteries now, and Apache said that should be good enough for what we do. But they said if we plan to do a lot of dry camping, that solar would be a good option and that is how they are equipping most of their RVs now. I definitely plan to go back to Apache over the winter and have them put some solar on. They will do the work right and deserve to make a buck or two after all the time they spent on the fridge...
Apache Everett did a great job of "service after the sale".
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Great news. As far as the power requirements go; it's all about usage. I have 4 - GC-6's for 450 AH's and 340 Watts of solar with my absorption fridge (which works great, thank goodness!). If I was to go with a 12V compressor fridge, I'd plan on doubling my consumption and would want to increase my solar to the 510 watt limit for the factory solar controller and possibly upgrade to 300+ AH's of Lithium as well.
All the new ORV's are now coming with 400 watts of solar as standard equipment, mostly to deal with the additional load from the switch to 12V fridges.
2 cents,
Dave
__________________
2022 Outdoors RV 25RDS, 2022 F350 dually, 6.7PSD, 10 spd, 3.55's
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09-23-2024, 04:21 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Washington (the one in the West)
Posts: 165
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Thanks for the guidance on how much solar I will need. I am not sure if the batteries have to be upgraded also. Would I need to do that now or could it wait? I will probably look into that question when at the tavern tonight...
__________________
RV = 2023 ORV 250RKS. Ordered in January 2022 and received in tip-top-shape in January 2023! Tow vehicle = 2021 F350 4WD with 6.7 Powerstroke.
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09-23-2024, 06:18 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner Outdoors RV Owners Club Jayco Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STDevil
Thanks for the guidance on how much solar I will need. I am not sure if the batteries have to be upgraded also. Would I need to do that now or could it wait? I will probably look into that question when at the tavern tonight...
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In my opinion you can do the solar first, and upgrade the batteries later. I have a pair of Trojan T-125 6V and installed 400 watts of solar on the roof with a Victron Energy MPPT charge controller - plus I have another 200 watt portable through the side port. I also use the 200 watt portable to charge the EcoFlow power station at times. At some point I will be looking to upgrade the batteries, but no reason to do that at the moment as they are still healthy and doing just fine for what we need.
__________________
TT: 2019 ORV Timber Ridge 23DBS, Blue Ox SwayPro 15K/1500
TV: 2019 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCab LB, 6.2L, 4.30/e-locker, 4x4, 164" WB, RoadActive Suspension
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09-24-2024, 11:00 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Kelowna, B.C. Canada
Posts: 3,769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STDevil
Thanks for the guidance on how much solar I will need. I am not sure if the batteries have to be upgraded also. Would I need to do that now or could it wait? I will probably look into that question when at the tavern tonight...
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As I said; it's all about usage. You can certainly try with two GC-6's and see how it goes.
I've seen people claim anywhere from 40 -100 AH/day for a 12V compressor fridge depending on brand, size and ambient conditions. Your GC-6's are likely 205-225 AH's....since they are 6 volt they are wired in series to get 12V so two still only have 205 - 225 AH's and the common wisdom is to avoid discharging them below 50%....so you have 100 - 112 AH's usable which should run your fridge for somewhere between 1 and 2.8 days. Now, if you are running a furnace, you could be using up to 80 AH's/day for heat which means your battery reserve could be as low as 13hrs...less with pump/lights/etc.
Since you already have two new GC-6's you can cheaply add two more to give you double the reserve power. The factory 4 battery tray will take a Century Plastics 4 battery box. If you do this, I'd stick with batteries that match your current ones exactly.
Solar is a big help as I am able to restore my battery charge the next day as long as conditions are suitable. I'd probably consider solar first and a battery upgrade later but it depends on where/how you camp.
A Victron Smart Shunt is an excellent tool to tell you exactly how many AH's you are going through.
cheers,
Dave
__________________
2022 Outdoors RV 25RDS, 2022 F350 dually, 6.7PSD, 10 spd, 3.55's
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