Norcold not cold

[Silverdillo]

Long time issue with my Norcold frig but a simple question I can't seem to find a clear answer for. I have a 2016 GP with the N1095 top freezer gas/electric - where is the correct placement for the thermistor? I've tried 5th, 10th, 1st and last fins up and down... I've seen 10th fin, 5th fin and I'm not finding anything in my owners manual and my frig bites the big one!


Thanks and happy Memorial Day

[Old-Biscuit]

Norcold N1095 OEM position for thermistor is 10th Fin from the right


Fridge thermostat is calibrated for range of temps (43*F---34*F) based on TEMP Setting and Thermistor OEM placement


If thermistor fails/lost of temp sensing then fridge controls go into BOS (Backup Operating System)
Fridge continues to function and thermostat uses TIME Base vs TEMP Base to control temps



Service Manual for your fridge
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/norcoldn1095.pdf




What are the freezer temps & food compartment temps?
Same temps on AC Element & LP operation?
What temp setting?
Fans running?
Good ventilation?

[Silverdillo]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Norcold N1095 OEM position for thermistor is 10th Fin from the right


Fridge thermostat is calibrated for range of temps (43*F---34*F) based on TEMP Setting and Thermistor OEM placement


If thermistor fails/lost of temp sensing then fridge controls go into BOS (Backup Operating System)
Fridge continues to function and thermostat uses TIME Base vs TEMP Base to control temps



Service Manual for your fridge
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/norcoldn1095.pdf




What are the freezer temps & food compartment temps?
Same temps on AC Element & LP operation?
What temp setting?
Fans running?
Good ventilation?

Thank you very much for the link. That's where I've got the thermistor now. I've been battling this for too long. Temps run about mid 50s and mid teens at max setting gas or electric. ORV paid NO attention to the Norcold specs for the clearances and dimensions for the enclosure recommended for the fridge in the slide. Norcold spec'd clearances of 1/2 -3/4" for the plenum for the airflow and mine was almost 2". I removed the unit and corrected the enclosure size to Norcold specs with little improvement. Ventilation isn't an issue, I've been round and round and have supplemental fans for supply and exhaust and all airflow goes thru the cooling fins at the top.



I'm almost ready to yank it out and replace with a conventional unit.

[Ghost]

Should you choose to replace your unit, this is a cost effective option. We went with the all electric option. Works so much better than the OEM cooling unit we can't believe it. Highly recommended. Good luck.



https://jc-refrigeration.com/product-information/

[Hit_the_Rhod]

Originally Posted by Silverdillo

Thank you very much for the link. That's where I've got the thermistor now. I've been battling this for too long. Temps run about mid 50s and mid teens at max setting gas or electric. ORV paid NO attention to the Norcold specs for the clearances and dimensions for the enclosure recommended for the fridge in the slide. Norcold spec'd clearances of 1/2 -3/4" for the plenum for the airflow and mine was almost 2". I removed the unit and corrected the enclosure size to Norcold specs with little improvement. Ventilation isn't an issue, I've been round and round and have supplemental fans for supply and exhaust and all airflow goes thru the cooling fins at the top.

I'm almost ready to yank it out and replace with a conventional unit.

I'm not a fan of the Norcold, however regarding the clearance distances you quoted above, I may be wrong, but I think what norcold quotes are the MINIMUM clearances, not the exact, so if they recommend 1/2" to 3/4" and you have 2", then clearance is not the problem. Generally you have problems when the clearances are LESS than those recommended. I believe you need to look somewhere else for your problem. If the freezer section is mid teens and the fridge section is mid 50's, I suspect you have a poor seal in the door gasket, letting cold air out and warm air in to the refrigerator section. Do the $ bill test all around the seal to ensure that you have a good seal.

Personally, if it were me, I'd replace with a residential fridge. Replaced ours 6 years ago and never looked back! Extremely happy with it!

[Silverdillo]

Door seals were one of the first things verified. thx

[Old-Biscuit]

Clearances giving in installation manuals are MIN and MAXIMUM
2" clearances is WAY out of specs.....the smaller the clearances the better the airflow (draft) will be up thru absorber tubes and across condenser fins.




Mid 50's and Mid Teens on Electric/LP suggests cooling unit issues
Either enough heat is not being supplied by either source to boil enough ammonia into vapor that can be condensed in sufficient quanities to absorb heat from Freezer AND Food compartments
OR
you have an obstruction.blockage in 'perk' tube (boiler section) restricting the amount of ammonia being boiled into vapor


Good/narrow clearances
No obstruction restricting ventilation
Airflow enhanced via fans
Electric elements ----proper voltage/wattage/ohms
LP ---proper system pressure/good clean flame/clean flue--flue baffle
Thermistor functions, good resistance


Then Circuit Board is shoirt cycling heat duration (time heat source is on)
OR
Cooling Unit is obstructed....warm freezer/food then that is in the perk tube