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Old 12-07-2024, 01:07 PM   #1
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ORV Dropping Underbelly

On newer models of ORV TTs (say 2023-2025) how hard is it to drop the underbelly to run cabling and then get it back in place correctly?


Is it only screwed or glued and screwed?


Is it a one person job? I'm sure it be easier with help.


After the underbelly is dropped at least in places are there more unexpected challenges to running wires?


How are the totally internal walls built? Can you get a wire fished up through any of those walls?
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Old 12-07-2024, 01:45 PM   #2
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It is held in place with RamSet rivets. They usually pull out with a nail puller or pry bar pretty easily but be ready for a few that will break or you can’t get out. When you put the coroplast back up #12x1” self drilling hex head screws and fender washers using a 1/4” drive impact.
The real B!tch of the job is getting it pulled up tight so the original holes line up- sandwich the free end between 2, 2x4’s and hook a come a long to it like a fence stretcher.
It isn’t a lot of fun.
You will be running into all of the mechanicals in the “basement” such as furnace ducting, plumbing, shore and 12vdc wiring, comms wiring not to mention 3 holding tanks so yeah, you can say you’ll have some obstacles.
I wouldn’t do it if your just running some wires- I needed to run a couple wires to the back and I took some 1/2” PEX tubing and ran it outside of the frame (you can get it through the holes in the corner of the gussets.

The walls are solid foam core- you won’t be able to fish anything.

What do you want to install anyway?
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Old 12-07-2024, 01:59 PM   #3
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I wouldn't drop the Coroplast. If you do, all the guts will fall out onto your driveway. If you're expecting everything to be tied up and organized you will be disappointed. They throw the wires, cables and water lines in with the frame upside down, put on the Coloplast and flip em over.
The above advice is the best. Just run your stuff underneath.
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Old 12-07-2024, 02:05 PM   #4
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Little more info:


Cables want to run. I know some could be done easily in some protective tube, EMT conduct, PEX, etc. But if I have it open I would try run everything I could anticipate all in one project.


1. Plan on making one of the space under the front dinette (19MKS) the battery and electrical "bay".


2. Lithium batteries


3. Extensive Victron setup


4. Thus I want to extend the shore power cable from the breaker box forward, plus a return path from the inverter for both 120 and 12 volt systems.



5. A Victron GX Touch, maybe mounted on top cabinet next to entry door


6. Bring rooftop solar feed into the electrical bay.


7. Extend external ground solar feed to electreical bay.


8. Add rear backup lights, likely getting the 19MKS in Mountain Series without backup lights.


9. Depending on how existing running/brakes lights are wired, those leads to a rear trailer plug. My hitch mounted rack has full lights built into it.


There may be other wires I forgot right now, but that's the zest of it. I could just run all those in conduct under the belly. But that seems to asking for troubles on down the road for those main 120 volt wires.
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Old 12-07-2024, 02:16 PM   #5
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I would not have the battery in the living compartment.
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Old 12-07-2024, 02:23 PM   #6
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The batteries are lithium. No gassing issue. Needs to be protected for theft and charging in cold temperatures, like down to 0F. Not easily done on the exterior.
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Old 12-07-2024, 08:56 PM   #7
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Quote:
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I would not have the battery in the living compartment.
Why do you think so? This is the typical location for LFP.
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Old 12-07-2024, 11:18 PM   #8
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What I did on my 5th wheel was use a catspaw to pull a few pins, then replace the with the self tapping screws and fender washers. No need to rehash, as it wasn't taken off. When I did remove it, I re-fastened it by loosely starting a screw on the right and left side at the front of the trailer the worked my way back to the rear.
https://www.amazon.com/Spec-Ops-High...89SQ6BHM&psc=1
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Old 12-08-2024, 12:05 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GPCPL View Post
What I did on my 5th wheel was use a catspaw to pull a few pins, then replace the with the self tapping screws and fender washers. No need to rehash, as it wasn't taken off. When I did remove it, I re-fastened it by loosely starting a screw on the right and left side at the front of the trailer the worked my way back to the rear.
https://www.amazon.com/Spec-Ops-High...89SQ6BHM&psc=1

Do you have any images of the underbelly while work was in progress?


Did you drop the entire underbelly or just some portions of it?


How hard was it to retension the bottom?


Did you have significant loose cables/stuff fall out when dropping the belly?


On other RV with enclosed underbellies I used 2x4s and some auto jacks to raise and hold the belly in place while re-attacheding the edges. Worked pretty well, even solo.
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Old 12-08-2024, 12:11 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BPTS View Post
....

The walls are solid foam core- you won’t be able to fish anything.

I know the exterior walls are foam core. I was referring to the interior walls. Are those also foam core?
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Old 12-08-2024, 12:25 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R.M.A View Post
I wouldn't drop the Coroplast. If you do, all the guts will fall out onto your driveway. If you're expecting everything to be tied up and organized you will be disappointed. They throw the wires, cables and water lines in with the frame upside down, put on the Coloplast and flip em over.
The above advice is the best. Just run your stuff underneath.

Is this from first or second hand experience or assumed from other sources? I'm not very comfortable running 120 volt mains beneath the underbelly.
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Old 12-08-2024, 07:38 AM   #12
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The RV Geeks

Check out youtube videos from The RV Geeks and MYT Solar to see where they placed all the victron stuff in their new 19MKS.

wayne
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Old 12-08-2024, 10:47 AM   #13
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Check out youtube videos from The RV Geeks and MYT Solar to see where they placed all the victron stuff in their new 19MKS.

wayne

I already have three times. My real questions is about running some of the cables across the trailer.
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Old 12-08-2024, 12:05 PM   #14
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The interior walls are thin wall paper covered luan with a 2x2 for studs. You can push on the walls and feel where a stud is.

As far as stuff falling out when removing the coroplast. That won't happen. You can poke your head up in there by removing one of the underbelly access panels. I've had my head up in there several times and I didn't see a mess of anything. A few wires running here and there but thats it.
Get a few squeeze C clamps to hold the Coroplast in place to start the 1st few screws.
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