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Old 04-29-2017, 08:28 AM   #29
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My Travel Supreme used controllers to run the slide and they could adjust the power to move the slides. I had a slide that would not pull in but when I connected the battery from my 18v electric screwdriver I could move it both ways. Paul at Paul's RV sent me a new controller. I plugged it in and the slide operated perfectly.
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Old 04-29-2017, 10:08 AM   #30
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So the switch we have shows
To load 1b. . . . . 2b to load
Positive 1. . . . . . 2 positive
To load 1a. . . . . . 2a to load

Currently have pigtails going from 1b to 2a and from 2b to 1a. Which matches the diagram above....

Could we be wrong? It's the same way as the awning switch is wired
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Old 04-29-2017, 10:34 AM   #31
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Yep, strange!!! You said you changed the switch and problem remained. Did you buy another, or use the awning switch?? If you used the awning switch, did you try the slide switch in its place and did the awning work normally??

Hard pressed to believe that your trailer battery would be low enough to cause the slide not to move in one direction. And again, when jumping all works, correct?? As I asked earlier, any noise in either direction, or slower operation when jumped?? I am still thinking (not very well usually!!) that maybe there is a wiring problem or bad connection in the switch area, or connects. Baffled!!!!!
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Old 04-29-2017, 11:42 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LBZYA View Post
Under the front of the trailer there is a access panel held on with 1/4" screws. Remove that panel and verify that all the self setting mini circuit breakers connections are tight. The clicking you are hearing is most likely one of the breakers tripping out. There is something defiantly wrong with the wiring going from the battery to the switch. It should look like this when you get the cover off,
Attachment 159976
So THAT's what it looks like inside there! Thanks for the pic!
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Old 04-29-2017, 05:05 PM   #33
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The only way to know where the problem is, would be to use a clamp type volt/ohmmeter and check the amp draw at different locations.

Trying to find it by remove and replace, or by guess by golly, gets very frustrating and expensive.
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Old 04-29-2017, 08:03 PM   #34
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So THAT's what it looks like inside there! Thanks for the pic!
After I found that rats nest that ORV left me, I added that to my very long list of to do's. A few hours of handy work and presto,
Click image for larger version

Name:	Battery Wiring.jpg
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ID:	160085
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Old 04-29-2017, 11:07 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LBZYA View Post
After I found that rats nest that ORV left me, I added that to my very long list of to do's. A few hours of handy work and presto,
Attachment 160085
Nice!
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Old 04-30-2017, 07:42 AM   #36
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To the OP:

Like LBZYA said, I would open up that space under the front of your trailer, it should look something like the messy picture he provides. Find the self-resetting circuit breaker for the slide.

Try running the slide out with your separate battery by-passing the circuit breaker.
If that doesn't work, the problem is somewhere between there and the switch.
If that does work, try running the slide out without by-passing the circuit breaker.
Perhaps the circuit breaker has become defective and breaks at a lower amperage than it should.

A clamp-on ammeter that can measure the actual amps used would also be useful.
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Old 04-30-2017, 10:25 PM   #37
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Thanks all. We've thrown in the towel. It's at the shop now. I'm update once it's fixed
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Old 05-15-2017, 08:01 PM   #38
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CHARLINE: Just curious if they found a solution to your slide problem?
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Old 05-16-2017, 10:32 AM   #39
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Solution

Sometimes you just need to take it to the shop....

The mechanic tested power at the motor and had 11.5 on one, and 3.5 on the other... Chased the wires and found them pinched between the frame and the floor boards. He ran all new wires, and changed the switch for a second time as the 'new' one we had put in started smoking when he hooked it up....

He also changed all the self - resetting breakers in the front lower panel as they were super corroded and would have caused issues at some point.
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Old 05-16-2017, 10:45 AM   #40
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Glad to hear that it is fixed. Yes, sometimes you just need to take it to the shop...
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Old 05-16-2017, 11:20 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OregonKen View Post
So THAT's what it looks like inside there! Thanks for the pic!


I'm glad OregonKen commented on the wiring layout. Seems rather haphazard and makes me wonder if there was a certain lack of care and concern when the factory wired this.
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Old 05-17-2017, 07:19 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charline View Post
Sometimes you just need to take it to the shop....

The mechanic tested power at the motor and had 11.5 on one, and 3.5 on the other... Chased the wires and found them pinched between the frame and the floor boards. He ran all new wires, and changed the switch for a second time as the 'new' one we had put in started smoking when he hooked it up....

He also changed all the self - resetting breakers in the front lower panel as they were super corroded and would have caused issues at some point.
Thanks for the update! I want your mechanic!!

Bob
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