Warranty considerations of bypassing or replacing stock WFCO converter-charger

[BaseCamper]

I just spent a few hours trying to learn and decide what I want/need to do about the inefficient WFCO converter/charger that presumably will be in my soon-to-be purchased Black Rock 23BKS. I have a call into ORV regarding the placement and model of converter-charger in the 2018 models that are currently on dealer's lots, and any possible changes that may be planned for the next production run. I plan to use bestconverter.com for advice and recommendation of the alternative(s).

I think I have a layman's understanding of the options, but I haven't seen anything written about how a bypass or replacement of the stock converter-charger will affect the warranty on a new trailer. Has anyone looked into this before making the changes to their rigs if still under warranty?

Since I wouldn't feel confident (currently, at least) in making the changes myself, I'm also wondering if you'd recommend entrusting this type of installation job to the dealer (yet to be determined) where I'll be buying my rig.

[Rickeoni]

Bypassing it is easy, add a breaker into the box and wire the converter to the it's own breaker. Currently it is probably wired into the same breaker as the fridge. The WFCO manual even has a list of breakers that will work in their boxes. ALL PRODUCT DOWNLOADS | wfcoelectronics.com


The bottom one is what I added, just gotta remember to turn it off.

Put your choice of stand alone charger (progressive dynamics, Powermax, Iota ) close to the batteries. And voila better charging and really nothing that can affect a warranty claim.

[325BH]

Put in a Progressive Dynamics PD9200 series with Charge Wizard and Pendant and be done. Never worry about battery charge again.

I replaced my WFCO converter after my first season on a brand new TT. Once I replaced it, I immediately noticed a difference in battery capacity due to proper charging.

My current setup is dual T105 Trojan 6v batteries and a PD9270 (70 amp).

[60sumtin]

Similar to member 325BH above I'll be changing the 3 stage WFCO converter/charger board to a 4 stage Progressive Dynamics model. Installation is a simple swap of the C/C section; two wires on the 12V side, 2 wires plus ground on the 120V side and your done. Replacing the board with another brand will not void your trailers warranty.

[Rickeoni]

The problem with just replacing thw WFCO with a PD9260 is you are not doing anything to change the voltage drop over a 25 foot run from the charger to the batteries. Using the chart below you can see how much voltage is lost in the process. If you dry camp a significant amount of time you are much better off with a stand alone charger as close to the batteries as possible, with at least a 0 AWG sized wire.

Voltage Drop Calculator

[60sumtin]

Thanks for the link. I'm still 4 months or so away from bringing the trailer out of hibernation and verifying the numbers so for now I'll just bookmark the calculator and revisit it at that time. Carry on.

[325BH]

Originally Posted by Rickeoni

The problem with just replacing thw WFCO with a PD9260 is you are not doing anything to change the voltage drop over a 25 foot run from the charger to the batteries. Using the chart below you can see how much voltage is lost in the process. If you dry camp a significant amount of time you are much better off with a stand alone charger as close to the batteries as possible, with at least a 0 AWG sized wire.

Voltage Drop Calculator

Correct about voltage drop, however the PD unit goes into boost mode (increased voltage) like it is supposed to (unlike the WFCO unit).

Once the batteries come up in voltage they will take on less amps... which decreases voltage drop. Not as ideal as correctly sized conductors for voltage/amps/distance, however it is MUCH better than a stock WFCO unit. Also much more convenient than messing with an separate charger.

I have been using mine with factory 6AWG conductors 25 or so feet away without issue. Yes, there is voltage drop during high-charge times, but it isn’t that big of a deal. The batteries eventually come up. Replacing my conductors is a big job.

[jtbuilds]

Originally Posted by 325BH

I have been using mine with factory 6AWG conductors 25 or so feet away without issue. Yes, there is voltage drop during high-charge times, but it isn’t that big of a deal. The batteries eventually come up. Replacing my conductors is a big job.

Want to make sure voltage drop doen't affect equalizing the batteries.

[1bigmess]

There's a lot of good info in this topic thread, but this question hasn't been answered yet, has it?

Originally Posted by BaseCamper

... I haven't seen anything written about how a bypass or replacement of the stock converter-charger will affect the warranty on a new trailer. Has anyone looked into this before making the changes to their rigs if still under warranty?

[jtbuilds]

I left the WFCO in but we are not on shore power very often. When we are the WFCO is disconnected from the batteries so it is used as power source. A ProNautic 60 amp battery is used to keep the batteries up.

PN are good. Allot better than a WFCO but a battery charger with a battery temp sensor and that will it will shut off is better than a PD. The PN60 can be left on the batteries 24/7.

I upgraded the wire from the batteries to the panel from 6ga to 2ga and pulled more than 20' of 10ga wire out slide motor circuit. This made a huge difference with the slide motor.

In ours the 55 amp WAFCO had a 40amps mini breaker in the basement (one of my I can't believe it conversations with ORV) and a 40amp fuse in panel. After the wire was upgraded I found the 40amp fuse in the panel would blow when the batteries could accept more than 40 amps from the WFCO.

[60sumtin]

Originally Posted by 1bigmess

... I haven't seen anything written about how a bypass or replacement of the stock converter-charger will affect the warranty on a new trailer. Has anyone looked into this before making the changes to their rigs if still under warranty?

There's a lot of good info in this topic thread, but this question hasn't been answered yet, has it?

I believe it was. The suggestion to replace the stock C/C with a better Progressive Dynamic model was addressed.

As for the as warranty question ORV states in the owners manual the trailer warranty is limited and does not apply to; "Equipment, products, components, appliances, or accessories not manufactured by Outdoors RV Manufacturing whether or not warranted, including but not limited to, tires, batteries, and other installed equipment or accessories." In other words each piece of equipment, product, component, etc. will have, or not have, their own specific warranty and does not fall under the trailer's warranty. The question was about the trailer's warranty so I think that covers it.

[egwilly]

In the case of the convertor, I personally would not worry about the warranty. Only becomes an issue if the install and hookup was done incorrectly. Then you're out of luck with the equipment manufacturer if stuff gets fried.

I don't understand the unhappiness with the WFCO units. In my recent case, my two 6 volt batteries were depleted to 70% charge. I plugged the trailer into 120V at home after the trip, and the Trimetric battery gauge showed 15amp charging, tapering off to 4 amps 4 hours later. Batteries showed 100% charged in this time.

Is the PD unit better than this?
If someone can prove it with the numbers, I'm in.

[jtbuilds]

Originally Posted by egwilly

In the case of the convertor, I personally would not worry about the warranty. Only becomes an issue if the install and hookup was done incorrectly. Then you're out of luck with the equipment manufacturer if stuff gets fried.

I don't understand the unhappiness with the WFCO units. In my recent case, my two 6 volt batteries were depleted to 70% charge. I plugged the trailer into 120V at home after the trip, and the Trimetric battery gauge showed 15amp charging, tapering off to 4 amps 4 hours later. Batteries showed 100% charged in this time.

Is the PD unit better than this?
If someone can prove it with the numbers, I'm in.

WFCO is suppose be 3 stage (bulk, absorption. float) but it stays (tested on a 12.1V battery = 50% capacity) at 13.4v (float) all the time.

A 3 stage charger with equalization will extend the life of the batteries.

A PD will bulk at +/-14.4 ( I tested it) and drop down through absorption into float. It also has a remote that allows equalization.

[egwilly]

The WFCO 9990 specs from their website. This unit is installed in the Glacier Peak.

WF-9990

The WF-9990 model provides 90 Amps and a clean, constant 13.6 VDC nominal output, for reliable operation of electronics and appliances. Automatic three-stage charging extends the life of your battery with output voltage modes of 13.2 VDC range “float” mode, 13.6 VDC range “absorption” mode, and a 14.4 VDC range “bulk” charge mode. The WF-9900 Series also maintains peace and quiet, as the cooling fan runs only when needed.
FCC Class B compliance for every power center model means that the units are designed not to cause interference with televisions, radios, or other signals. Electronic current limiting automatically shuts down the power during overload or short-circuit conditions, protecting the life of your power center and electrical system.
WF-9900 Series models provide AC and DC distribution with innovative features. They can accommodate two 50 Amp main AC circuit breaker and up to twelve branch circuits (duplex breakers). Eighteen-branch DC circuits are available with LED lights for each DC circuit to illuminate and identify open circuits.

Part Number: WF-9990PB (Black)

So unless some have defective units, or older units, I am still wondering what the advantage is to changing out something that works fine.