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Old 08-15-2020, 08:37 AM   #15
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I use a Gen-y drop hitch with the slide bars for sway control and weight distribution. Very heavy duty. Works very well. No grease no mess. I can even jack knife the trailer and not worry about removing the bars. Only regrets are that the bars only rated for 10,000 lbs and I would of preferred at least 12, or 14# to be on the safer side. Look to upgrading one day.
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Old 08-15-2020, 01:46 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by RvRyan View Post
Lmfao
Utilizing your Mechanical Engineering knowledge please take this opportunity to explain to me the Andersen system.


LMFAO
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Old 08-15-2020, 08:19 PM   #17
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I would not run the Andersen on a heavy trailer like an ORV. It is a poor design IMO.
We are running an E2 Trunnion w 10K bars for our 24RLS and it tows like it is on rails. With the wear pads on the frame brackets and a dab of grease on the pivot points it is absolutely silent.
Having successfully used an Andersen on our smaller Jayco for 5 years before moving up to the ORV 23DBS I went ahead and picked up the latest model for the 23DBS. Unfortunately, I was quite disappointed in the poor performance of the weight distribution component on the much heavier tongue of the ORV. I swapped it out for the Blue Ox 1500/15K which easily handles the 1250+ tongue when I run with full fresh water. I sold the Andersen to a friend at work who picked up a used Riverside Retro with about an 800 tongue weight and he reports that it is doing OK for him. So my experience seems to bear out what I've seen more recently that the Andersen just has trouble when the tongue weights approach 1000 and over. I do miss it every time I wrestle the Ox into the receiver - but I can't argue with the results the Ox delivers.
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Old 08-15-2020, 11:52 PM   #18
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From past experience with an Andersen I came to the conclusion that if you have an HD diesel truck and a TW under 1000 lbs it works great. BTDT.
Where it falls short is when you're tongue heavy and your tow vehicle is a softly sprung gasser. Drop 900+ lbs on the rear of an F150 and the Andersen will struggle to return weight back to the front.
Under the right circumstances it's a nice WDH.
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Old 08-16-2020, 11:55 PM   #19
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We are new to towing a travel trailer after starting our RV life with a tent trailer. In June we brought home an Anniversary edition ORV 22FQS and we love it.

I researched both tow vehicles and WD hitches before getting the trailer. I decided the best towing experience would be to have a 3/4 ton truck and we got a lightly used gas Ford F250 Lariat with the "Ultimate Tow Camera" package. We are towing with an Equalizer 12K hitch. Our tongue weight is at least 1100.

I thought I would bargain shop a bit and found a used Equalizer on Craigslist. I'm a good shopper and this usually works well for me. It was more of a learning experience this time. The seller said the hitch was "a few years old". When I took a closer look at it when I got home, I discovered that it was stamped with the previous company name (now Equalizer is made by Progress Manufacturing). The name change happened 14 years ago. I also found that one of the sockets that holds the load bars was cracked.

I bought a replacement socket from Progress and some of the pads to make the bars quieter and thought that was good. Well not quite. The design of the hitch head has changed ever so slightly, but just enough that the replacement socket would not fit. Even worse I learned this as I was getting the hitch ready to go to the dealer to pick up the new trailer.

I phoned Progress Manufacturing and their customer service was wonderful - like good customer service used to be. I explained the problem, they explained why I had the problem, why the design changed, and when it was clear I needed a new hitch head and new bars (basically replacing everything I got on Craigslist), they gave me a good price on it and threw in free shipping.

I got the trailer home with the cracked socket and waited for my new parts before my next trip in 5 days. FedEx had delays and it looked like I might not get the new load bars in time. Once again Progress gave me great customer service. The head of their department walked me through my options and I felt confident that I could safely use the older load bars if the new ones didn't arrive in time. They did get here.

I like working with companies that understand their product well and are responsive to their customers.

I have the knack of the Equalizer now and hitching and unhitching are easy. I agree wholeheartedly with other posters that it is very hard to work with it without getting grease on you, but even that is getting easier.

I have increasing arthritis in my right hand and felt that any hitch requiring me to grip chains (Blue Ox) wasn't going to work for me going forward.

My tow experience is rock solid. I've been on the interstate, passed by big rigs, been in high winds, over bridges with high wind warnings in effect, and up and down mountains. I've already been on really rough roads. The trailer just follows right behind regardless of conditions. We've name the truck Honey Badger, because Honey Badger don't care.

Happy Trails!
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Old 08-18-2020, 11:18 AM   #20
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My experience with the Andersen has been great. I had one on my other lighter trailer for 10 years and it worked well so when I went to my heavier 24 RLS with 4 6v batteries on the tongue I upgraded to the HD (1400 lb TW) Anderson. Just completed a 4 week 4k mile trip and it worked flawlessly. Everything is tight, no rattling or banging, no sway, no feeling of pushing or sideways movement, just like its on rails.

When unhitching, just raise the jack until you have some slack in the chains and unscrew the shackle bolt and remove the chains. Hooking up is in reverse order, no need to even re-tighten the nuts.

I don't pretend to understand the engineering behind it, all I know is that it works great for me

DISCLAIMER - My tow vehicle is a 3500 dually
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Old 08-20-2020, 12:07 PM   #21
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Another testimonial for Equalizer. F150 Max Tow - 21RWS - +/- 7000 lbs
On some very curvy roads I'm often right up the backside of unencumbered cars!
Granted, they obviously don't know how to drive, but still impressive. As mentioned the Equalizer is noisy but frequent greasing keeps it bearable.
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Old 08-30-2020, 11:53 PM   #22
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We're towing a Blackstone 260FLSB at just under 8k pounds with a 2008 Duramax 2500HD. We use an Equalizer WD hitch and love it. Rock solid at any speed and any wind condition. On our past rig we had a WD hitch with the curved bars and chains and it was OK. Good at WD, but NO SWAY CONTROL at all. Terrible. The friction of the trunnion bars on the Equalizer are AMAZING for Sway control. Kudos to Equalizer.
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Old 01-04-2021, 03:23 PM   #23
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I realize this is an old thread but its a place to start.

I watched the installation video for the four point sway control and WD hitch. One thing it said is that you should adjust the hitch before every trip. How difficult is it to do that? I'm guessing that the adjustment is mad with the spacer rivet? How many of you actually do this before every trip? Is it necessary?

Also many of you mentioned that this setup is a bit greasy, it appears that grease is simply applied to the flat metal bars where they contact the hub. If so is there a lubricating material that can be installed to prevent ware? You'd have to apply the grease every time you drove it through heavy rain?

I'm sure I'll have more questions after I watch the installation videos for the other brands. Thanks
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Old 01-04-2021, 07:36 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Av8Chuck View Post
I realize this is an old thread but its a place to start.

I watched the installation video for the four point sway control and WD hitch. One thing it said is that you should adjust the hitch before every trip. How difficult is it to do that? I'm guessing that the adjustment is mad with the spacer rivet? How many of you actually do this before every trip? Is it necessary?

Also many of you mentioned that this setup is a bit greasy, it appears that grease is simply applied to the flat metal bars where they contact the hub. If so is there a lubricating material that can be installed to prevent ware? You'd have to apply the grease every time you drove it through heavy rain?

I'm sure I'll have more questions after I watch the installation videos for the other brands. Thanks
I have not touched my hitch since I set it up, other than grease. My TT tows beautifully with no wiggle and that is over 30K miles. No need to fix what isn't broke.

I grease my hitch regularly in addition to using the plastic pads on the fixed rub points. I grease the "L" shaped keepers that keep the bars in place, the cups where they pivot in the hitch, and the ball itself. When I unhook the trailer, I use blue shop towels to clean up any excess grease and cover the ball with a plastic cup made for that purpose. I do occasionally end up with grease on me, but I am getting better. Use a wheel bearing type grease (I use Lucas red and tacky) and it will not wash off.
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Old 01-07-2021, 08:28 AM   #25
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Good morning all. We have been researching the Creekside 21 DBS and the Trailridge 23 DBS. We currently have a Coachman Clipper 17BH and we tow it with a Chevy Duramax 2500 HD and we do not need a WDH for that. Does anyone use a WDH for towing their rigs and if so, which ones, opinions 😀 and any information would be helpful. Thanks
Discussing W.D. hitches on a forum is like comparing Diesel engines to Gas engines.............or worse..........a Cummins to anything anywhere. Everyone here here has an opinion based on their experience and possibly research. I would say most of what everyone says is subjective....including what I say. Some people say their units works perfect but never used anything other than what they have(I fall in that category). Some people think they have a good set up because the dealer they got their rig from installed it. Some people say the they have the best because someone says it's the best. Some people say they have the best one because it cost a lot of $$$$. I think it comes down to reading, research and doing a fair amount of homework and fine tuning your hitch-up. I personally don't think it matters whether you use a W.D. setup with an integrated sway or a spring bar/chain set up with a friction sway. I think it matters that what you are using is:

1. Enough tow vehicle
2. High Quality hitch
3. Right sized hitch
4. Installed correctly
5. Tuned to the tow vehicle and coach.
6.Don't do what someone else just because they say they know all.


I currently use a 1200 lb. Reese Trunion square bar unit, snapped up with chains and a friction sway control. My 20fq has a 1200 lb. tongue weight and I pull with a Duramax 2500 HD. I tow with complete confidence and stability and I've been towing trailers since 1975 and towing my own RV/Trailer since 1982. I've never had a close call or anything with the above type set up that I've used since my first days of towing.
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Old 01-07-2021, 09:59 AM   #26
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How many TT's would tow the same without a sway infused WDH and only just used the old school round bar and chains.
Many TT's have the axles more towards the rear which aids in tracking.

How many have bought TT's and never towed it without a WDH sway infused hitch?

It's really hard to analyze how well a WDH works if you never tow without it.

I'm not advocating anyone to tow with out a sway infused WDH, I'm merely just tossing in some ponder material.
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Old 01-07-2021, 11:54 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Cumminsfan View Post
How many TT's would tow the same without a sway infused WDH and only just used the old school round bar and chains.
Many TT's have the axles more towards the rear which aids in tracking.

How many have bought TT's and never towed it without a WDH sway infused hitch?

It's really hard to analyze how well a WDH works if you never tow without it.

I'm not advocating anyone to tow with out a sway infused WDH, I'm merely just tossing in some ponder material.
What about not using a WD hitch at all? I have 10 trucks and 8 trailers and I've only ever used a WD hitch on my TT; never even a thought on my 17' open car trailer or 24' enclosed with a vehicle or scissor lift in it.....certainly not for my boat.

Currently I'm towing my 21RBS without a WD hitch and I'm not sure I'll get one as my 3500 diesel QC, long box 4x4 is such a massive overkill for the trailer and I'm not sure the negatives (increase oversteer and reduced rear wheel traction) outweighs the positives in my case. FWIW my 3500 also has custom overloads and HD adjustable shocks as well as a Class V superhitch with a 1700lb deadweight rating. I haven't towed the new trailer much like this but the bit I did do was rock steady. I may use a sway control (electronic or friction) but I doubt I need it; a properly balanced trailer with adequate tongue weight goes a long way....

And no, I'm not recommending that people stop using WD hitches or other sway control devices; I've used them for years with good result, the only reason I'm not running one right now is the unusual mismatch of my set-up.

2 cents,
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Old 01-07-2021, 06:41 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Dave Pelletier View Post
What about not using a WD hitch at all? I have 10 trucks and 8 trailers and I've only ever used a WD hitch on my TT; never even a thought on my 17' open car trailer or 24' enclosed with a vehicle or scissor lift in it.....certainly not for my boat.

Currently I'm towing my 21RBS without a WD hitch and I'm not sure I'll get one as my 3500 diesel QC, long box 4x4 is such a massive overkill for the trailer and I'm not sure the negatives (increase oversteer and reduced rear wheel traction) outweighs the positives in my case. FWIW my 3500 also has custom overloads and HD adjustable shocks as well as a Class V superhitch with a 1700lb deadweight rating. I haven't towed the new trailer much like this but the bit I did do was rock steady. I may use a sway control (electronic or friction) but I doubt I need it; a properly balanced trailer with adequate tongue weight goes a long way....

And no, I'm not recommending that people stop using WD hitches or other sway control devices; I've used them for years with good result, the only reason I'm not running one right now is the unusual mismatch of my set-up.

2 cents,
Dave
With 10 trucks and 8 trailers plus your current rig, I say you have the driving and hauling experience to know what your limitations are. A rookie towing will have none of the experience behind them. I don't think it is a good idea for them to "test the water" at the expense of something possibly going haywire.
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