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Old 12-05-2020, 12:46 PM   #1
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Wheel Bearing Grease

Fairly new to the travel trailer RV scene here in central Oregon. Was wondering what out members recommendations would be for wheel bearing grease. I plan to repack the bearings myself. Thanks.
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Old 12-05-2020, 01:08 PM   #2
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Any brand Synthetic Moly grease. They don't breakdown from heat.
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Old 12-05-2020, 08:13 PM   #3
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Mobile 1 Full syn for me.
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Old 12-05-2020, 10:00 PM   #4
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Shell Gadus EP for me.
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Old 12-06-2020, 12:28 AM   #5
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I've been using Lucas Red & Tacky #2 for a while now and it does a good job. It also seems to be readily available at numerous retailers, not just auto parts stores.
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Old 12-06-2020, 04:18 AM   #6
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Anything that says " Wheel Bearing Grease " for me.
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Old 12-06-2020, 10:08 AM   #7
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I'm kinda liking the StaLube "Drum Brake" grease. Seems to have good heat resistance..................and we have drum brakes.
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Old 12-06-2020, 07:13 PM   #8
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I use this "VALVOLINEô MULTI-VEHICLE GREASE" because I can use it on everything else. Keep it simple.
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Old 12-06-2020, 08:49 PM   #9
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Mystik JT-6 red grease. A fraction of the cost of Lucas and performs just as well if not better.
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Old 12-06-2020, 11:15 PM   #10
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From Alko:

"Use a high temperature, automotive type wheel bearing grease produced
by a reputable manufacturer. The soap type should be lithium complex or
equivalent. Use NLGI Grade 2 product with a minimum dropping point of 440F.''

I have used "Valvoline Multi-Vehicle High Temperature Red Grease" successfully for almost 7 yrs and 59,850 miles.

Bob
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Old 12-06-2020, 11:26 PM   #11
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High temp red
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Old 12-07-2020, 12:10 AM   #12
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I like the Lucas heavy duty wheel bearing grease a lot and itís easy to get and inexpensive through amazon. Interestingly, itís an old school soap based grease that very highly rated for wheel bearings by 4 of 5 rating companies as well as consumer reports. Iíve used it for years in restoring old muscle cars. Paul R. Haller
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Old 12-07-2020, 12:34 AM   #13
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The most important thing in longevity of wheel bearings is not the grease used or even which bearings. It’s how you assemble the bearing and proper preload torque on the bearings that matters most. Dexter recommends that when putting the drum on the spindle that the proper sequence is to carefully install drum onto spindle. Put the washer and castle nut on the spindle and tighten finger tight. While spinning the drum continuously on the spindle, tighten the castle nut to around 35 foot lbs on the castle nut. After tightening, do not touch the drum and loosen castle nut completely and run it up to finger tight only and put in cotter pin, or if the cotter pin can not be installed do not tighten but to back off the castle nut from finger tight to slide in cotter pin. Apparently, the spinning the drum and the 35ft lbs of torque seats the races and bearings only and moves any grease away from the adjoining surfaces of the bearings, races and drums. Then, without spinning or touching the drum in any way loosen the nut and retighten to finger tight only. By using this method of tightening the castle nut, there is no preload on the bearings and all races are fully seated inside the drum. Over tightening of bearings is the number one reason for excess heat and premature bearing failure. Paul R. Haller
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Old 12-07-2020, 01:27 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul R. Haller View Post
The most important thing in longevity of wheel bearings is not the grease used or even which bearings. Itís how you assemble the bearing and proper preload torque on the bearings that matters most. Dexter recommends that when putting the drum on the spindle that the proper sequence is to carefully install drum onto spindle. Put the washer and castle nut on the spindle and tighten finger tight. While spinning the drum continuously on the spindle, tighten the castle nut to around 35 foot lbs on the castle nut. After tightening, do not touch the drum and loosen castle nut completely and run it up to finger tight only and put in cotter pin, or if the cotter pin can not be installed do not tighten but to back off the castle nut from finger tight to slide in cotter pin. Apparently, the spinning the drum and the 35ft lbs of torque seats the races and bearings only and moves any grease away from the adjoining surfaces of the bearings, races and drums. Then, without spinning or touching the drum in any way loosen the nut and retighten to finger tight only. By using this method of tightening the castle nut, there is no preload on the bearings and all races are fully seated inside the drum. Over tightening of bearings is the number one reason for excess heat and premature bearing failure. Paul R. Haller
This is great tech info. Thanks!
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