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12-05-2020, 11:46 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Madras, OR
Posts: 35
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Wheel Bearing Grease
Fairly new to the travel trailer RV scene here in central Oregon. Was wondering what out members recommendations would be for wheel bearing grease. I plan to repack the bearings myself. Thanks.
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12-05-2020, 12:08 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 285
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Any brand Synthetic Moly grease. They don't breakdown from heat.
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12-05-2020, 07:13 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: La Verne, Calif
Posts: 3,649
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Mobile 1 Full syn for me.
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12-05-2020, 09:00 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Mission BC
Posts: 739
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Shell Gadus EP for me.
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2018 Black Rock 24kts, 300 watts Solar, 4-230ah gc2’s
2008 Dodge 3500 4x4, 6.7, delete, LB, 6 spd man. Firestone bags.
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12-05-2020, 11:28 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner Outdoors RV Owners Club Jayco Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 725
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I've been using Lucas Red & Tacky #2 for a while now and it does a good job. It also seems to be readily available at numerous retailers, not just auto parts stores.
__________________
TT: 2019 ORV Timber Ridge 23DBS, Blue Ox SwayPro 15K/1500
TV: 2019 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCab LB, 6.2L, 4.30/e-locker, 4x4, 164" WB, RoadActive Suspension
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12-06-2020, 03:18 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,438
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Anything that says " Wheel Bearing Grease " for me.
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12-06-2020, 09:08 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: California
Posts: 715
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I'm kinda liking the StaLube "Drum Brake" grease. Seems to have good heat resistance..................and we have drum brakes.
__________________
V465
2015 Creek Side 20fq, 450 Watts of Samlex Solar,
2013 GMC Denali, Duramax, Retired in 2021
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12-06-2020, 06:13 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 35
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I use this "VALVOLINE™ MULTI-VEHICLE GREASE" because I can use it on everything else. Keep it simple.
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Tony P
24kts
Bend Oregon
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12-06-2020, 07:49 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 565
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Mystik JT-6 red grease. A fraction of the cost of Lucas and performs just as well if not better.
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12-06-2020, 10:15 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Pasco, WA
Posts: 1,643
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From Alko:
"Use a high temperature, automotive type wheel bearing grease produced
by a reputable manufacturer. The soap type should be lithium complex or
equivalent. Use NLGI Grade 2 product with a minimum dropping point of 440F.''
I have used "Valvoline Multi-Vehicle High Temperature Red Grease" successfully for almost 7 yrs and 59,850 miles.
Bob
__________________
2019 Outdoors RV 21RD (2023-20XX)
2014 ORV Wind River 250RDSW (2014-2021)
2024 Ram 3500 Laramie CTD 4X4
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12-06-2020, 10:26 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Heartland RV Club
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Fairhope, AL / Reedley, CA
Posts: 483
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High temp red
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Good Sam Charter Lifetime Member 269454, FMCA 239141
2019 Heartland Mallard IDM33 Bumper Pull
1988 Mallard 27SB Motorhome P30 454/TH475/Banks Power
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12-06-2020, 11:10 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Walnut Creek Ca USA
Posts: 837
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I like the Lucas heavy duty wheel bearing grease a lot and it’s easy to get and inexpensive through amazon. Interestingly, it’s an old school soap based grease that very highly rated for wheel bearings by 4 of 5 rating companies as well as consumer reports. I’ve used it for years in restoring old muscle cars. Paul R. Haller
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12-06-2020, 11:34 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Walnut Creek Ca USA
Posts: 837
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The most important thing in longevity of wheel bearings is not the grease used or even which bearings. It’s how you assemble the bearing and proper preload torque on the bearings that matters most. Dexter recommends that when putting the drum on the spindle that the proper sequence is to carefully install drum onto spindle. Put the washer and castle nut on the spindle and tighten finger tight. While spinning the drum continuously on the spindle, tighten the castle nut to around 35 foot lbs on the castle nut. After tightening, do not touch the drum and loosen castle nut completely and run it up to finger tight only and put in cotter pin, or if the cotter pin can not be installed do not tighten but to back off the castle nut from finger tight to slide in cotter pin. Apparently, the spinning the drum and the 35ft lbs of torque seats the races and bearings only and moves any grease away from the adjoining surfaces of the bearings, races and drums. Then, without spinning or touching the drum in any way loosen the nut and retighten to finger tight only. By using this method of tightening the castle nut, there is no preload on the bearings and all races are fully seated inside the drum. Over tightening of bearings is the number one reason for excess heat and premature bearing failure. Paul R. Haller
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12-07-2020, 12:27 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: California
Posts: 715
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul R. Haller
The most important thing in longevity of wheel bearings is not the grease used or even which bearings. It’s how you assemble the bearing and proper preload torque on the bearings that matters most. Dexter recommends that when putting the drum on the spindle that the proper sequence is to carefully install drum onto spindle. Put the washer and castle nut on the spindle and tighten finger tight. While spinning the drum continuously on the spindle, tighten the castle nut to around 35 foot lbs on the castle nut. After tightening, do not touch the drum and loosen castle nut completely and run it up to finger tight only and put in cotter pin, or if the cotter pin can not be installed do not tighten but to back off the castle nut from finger tight to slide in cotter pin. Apparently, the spinning the drum and the 35ft lbs of torque seats the races and bearings only and moves any grease away from the adjoining surfaces of the bearings, races and drums. Then, without spinning or touching the drum in any way loosen the nut and retighten to finger tight only. By using this method of tightening the castle nut, there is no preload on the bearings and all races are fully seated inside the drum. Over tightening of bearings is the number one reason for excess heat and premature bearing failure. Paul R. Haller
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This is great tech info. Thanks!
__________________
V465
2015 Creek Side 20fq, 450 Watts of Samlex Solar,
2013 GMC Denali, Duramax, Retired in 2021
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