1999 Rexhall Rexair will not start

[tbarnes]

Our 1999 rexair will not start unless I jump it at the solenoid at the firewall. I have replaced that solenoid, the solenoid on the starter, and the ignition switch. It still will not start or turn over at the key switch. I recently purchased it and the slide outs are not working, if the slide outs are not fully retracted would that keep it from starting?

[HoneyBadger]

Originally Posted by tbarnes

Our 1999 rexair will not start unless I jump it at the solenoid at the firewall. I have replaced that solenoid, the solenoid on the starter, and the ignition switch. It still will not start or turn over at the key switch. I recently purchased it and the slide outs are not working, if the slide outs are not fully retracted would that keep it from starting?

Are your house batteries fully charged?

And no, typically an extended slide won't keep your engine from starting, but in my coach the slides won't retract if the engine is running.

[nothermark]

Originally Posted by tbarnes

Our 1999 rexair will not start unless I jump it at the solenoid at the firewall. I have replaced that solenoid, the solenoid on the starter, and the ignition switch. It still will not start or turn over at the key switch. I recently purchased it and the slide outs are not working, if the slide outs are not fully retracted would that keep it from starting?

Probably. I'll let somebody with more specific knowledge jump in if there is one but it sounds like a safety switch issue. I'd be checking the control wire to the solenoid for a signal to pull in. That could include the slides all the way in as well as the usual neutral/park switch and maybe brake switch. If you can locate a physical switch on the slide try jumpering it out. It could be on the slide or the slide actuation mechanism.

[tbarnes]

Originally Posted by nothermark

Probably. I'll let somebody with more specific knowledge jump in if there is one but it sounds like a safety switch issue. I'd be checking the control wire to the solenoid for a signal to pull in. That could include the slides all the way in as well as the usual neutral/park switch and maybe brake switch. If you can locate a physical switch on the slide try jumpering it out. It could be on the slide or the slide actuation mechanism.

Thank you for responding I'll check to see if there is a safety switch on the slides. The odd thing is I have 12 volts going to the solenoid from the ignition switch. I have check the grounds to chassis and engine and it shows continuity thru those cables.

[tbarnes]

Originally Posted by HoneyBadger

Are your house batteries fully charged?

And no, typically an extended slide won't keep your engine from starting, but in my coach the slides won't retract if the engine is running.

Yes the house battery’s have a full charge

[nothermark]

As I said, I don't know your unit so this is speculation. I have seen a lot of automotive circuits connected to 12 VDC with a switch to ground. I could easily see both sides of that solenoid actively controlled. If there are two small terminals on the relay I would be checking for continuity to ground on the other pin if I had 12 VDC on one terminal.

[Hangfive]

Is your Ebrake set? It must be to deploy jacks, probably for slides also.

[Hangfive]

Check for start signal from ignition switch, in start position. Could be a bad switch.

[tbarnes]

I am getting 12 volts to the firewall mounted solenoid to terminal S when the key is fully into start position.

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by tbarnes

I am getting 12 volts to the firewall mounted solenoid to terminal S when the key is fully into start position.

Is the solenoid activating ( clunking )

There should be 12 volts to one side all of the time and when actavated 12 volts on the other.

[Hangfive]

There should be no voltage to the solenoid until the key is turned to start. The other side goes to ground. Check for voltage there also, with the wire disconnected, battery voltage should be present on that terminal when key is turned, means solenoid is good. With wire off also check continuity between the ground wire and ground, should be zero ohms.
If not you have a dirty connection or an open circuit.

[nothermark]

There are 4 terminals on the average relay. 3 if the coil is internally connected to ground. In a case like this it pays to make sure what screws (terminals) we are talking about.

In this case I would expect 12 VDC on one contact terminal (big screw?) and one coil terminal (small screw) when in the start position. The other side of the coil (small screw) should have continuity to ground. That should let the relay pull in and provide 12 VDC to the other contact (big screw).

If I had the 12 VDC where I expected it and acting as described I would assume any safety devices were in the ground lead. In that case I might make sure I was in park and connect the other side of the relay coil to ground with a jumper long enough to see if the engine turned over. If so then you know where to be looking for an open circuit.

I would not leave the jumper on or operate with the slide out more than an inch or two. If I did try to limp home with some projection I would put in a slide block to keep it from opening on the road. A couple of 2x4 bits and some drywall screws would let me fabricate a box to put between the wall and slide flange on the inside. You don't want the slide opening as you drive down the road!

[JPSpen]

There is a Park/Neutral safety switch that can fail or get bumped if you're up under the steering column. Try moving the shifter while trying to crank the engine...

Beyond that..You're going to have to get a meter and start looking for voltages .... This is where a wiring diagram to your chassis would really come in handy..

Have you checked the Jacks ? As in leveling system.. A safety switch in that system might inhibit a start until it's all hunky dory... This is why you need a meter..


Good Luck..

John