Community Forums

Brecklundin · 03-21-2017, 11:47 AM

Need a bit more help with our Intellitec 00-00524-100 Battery Control Center components.*

I'm kinda confused when comparing the solenoids in ours with the parts shown in the Service Manual.*

I attached a photo of the solenoids/isolators/disconnects.
Attachment 155581

Found nice parts list and numbers here gives a lot of the part numbers for Intellitec*components here.
Intellitec Information Page

Also attached is the service manual for this BCC.

Page 14 of the BCC service manual. shows how a three solenoid box should look. *The parts list from the info sheet above indicates three there were/are three different solenoids from Intellitec at the time. *

Basically this is where I'm lost. I don't know if there are supposed to be two latching disconnects and one battery isolator in the middle. *That seems logical to me but as the photo of ours shows there is one latching disconnect on the chassis side (photo right). *On the coach side is a BR100 continuous duty solenoid that is rigged without fuses which makes me think it was a "good enough" solenoid to replace the second latching type; perhaps because one was not available?

That left solenoid tests as bad so as it needs replacing would it be best to get the same fuse-less Intellitec latching disconnect used on chassis side? *Or is a continuous duty what should be there?*

Been trouble shooting our electrical for almost a month due to weather...of course as I had planned to work on issues today...it's pouring.*

Thanks!*

Brecklundin · 03-21-2017, 02:26 PM

here is link to image, hope this try works...

MartinP · 03-21-2017, 02:48 PM

If your MH is set up the same as mine, you should have two latching battery disconnects, one for the main (chassis) one for the auxillary (coach) and a battery interconnect. It may be a little different as our MH is a diesel but the battery disconnects are latching, powered open and powered close.

Brecklundin · 03-21-2017, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinP

If your MH is set up the same as mine, you should have two latching battery disconnects, one for the main (chassis) one for the auxillary (coach) and a battery interconnect. It may be a little different as our MH is a diesel but the battery disconnects are latching, powered open and powered close.

Thanks for that Martin...while ours is a gas with 460V8, to me that makes sense. I guess original owner did or had done a fix when the original relay failed.

I think I'll go with the 01-00055-002 latching relay. That's the same as the one on the chassis bank side of things.

MartinP · 03-21-2017, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brecklundin

Thanks for that Martin...while ours is a gas with 460V8, to me that makes sense. I guess original owner did or had done a fix when the original relay failed.

I think I'll go with the 01-00055-002 latching relay. That's the same as the one on the chassis bank side of things.

I am assuming that you have two battery switches?

Brecklundin · 03-21-2017, 06:40 PM

oops, but yeah...two switches. Currently the chassis switch activate that solenoid and both the switch for the coach bank nor the auxillary battery tie-in work.

Everything works on shore power. Indicator lights on the switch panel light but coach only lights with shore or genset power.

RolandRock · 03-24-2017, 12:59 AM

If I am following this correctly, The chassis switch works to start the engine and charge the main battery from the alternator but the coach battery switch and relay does not function to charge the coach batteries or combine the two batteries for boost starting.
Maybe the PO just left the chassis battery to charge from and run the engine only. This would separate the two battery systems so your coach batteries would charge from the converter only powered by shore or generator. The down side would be not using your engines alternator to charge your coach batteries. If the coach batteries were always run down when leaving camp sites the alternator would always be pulling a load when driving maybe the PO did this on purpose. Looks to me like some things were rewired possibly to bypass problems with the board or switches.
Might be easier to just leave thing as is and charge your coach batteries with shore or generator.

Brecklundin · 04-17-2017, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RolandRock

If I am following this correctly, The chassis switch works to start the engine and charge the main battery from the alternator but the coach battery switch and relay does not function to charge the coach batteries or combine the two batteries for boost starting.
Maybe the PO just left the chassis battery to charge from and run the engine only. This would separate the two battery systems so your coach batteries would charge from the converter only powered by shore or generator. The down side would be not using your engines alternator to charge your coach batteries. If the coach batteries were always run down when leaving camp sites the alternator would always be pulling a load when driving maybe the PO did this on purpose. Looks to me like some things were rewired possibly to bypass problems with the board or switches.
Might be easier to just leave thing as is and charge your coach batteries with shore or generator.

Well, can confirm someone did a "good enough" hatchet-job on the wiring. Have most everything traced out. Solinoid and BD's engaging...Even the light on the boost switch now comes on when toggled. Solar charges both coach & chassis banks.

Have one teeeeeny thing left, I wired something backwards so now it's the CHASSIS switch that's not working, activates latch on it's BD but won't light. So for now I can just manually disconnect chassis battery to ensure we're using it tonight and won't have drained chassis battery in the AM.

Was not content to leave it as-is knowing something was wrong. Wife & I will be traveling at least 6-8 months starting sometime in June. Would not want to have something not work due to a jerry-rigged electrical system. Plus now I have much clearer understanding of coach and chassis wiring.

Could not have gotten this far without everyone's help so THANKS....I know I'll have a bunch more questions as I'm absorbing this one the fly. Oh, goodie...??

Will share photos of it once it's done to find out what I screwed up...

reded23 · 02-23-2019, 10:58 AM

I'm trying to find out more about my Intellitec Battery Control Center 53-00524 and was wondering what the Solar fuse was for?

Brecklundin · 02-24-2019, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reded23

I'm trying to find out more about my Intellitec Battery Control Center 53-00524 and was wondering what the Solar fuse was for?

hi ha.... "solar fuse"?

referring to fuse on BBC system board? Im abut under the weather and researching might go slowly on my end.

if you have a photo of the fuse at its location that might help.

My solar doesn't run through the BCC, just from the solar controller to batteries and to the converter, if I remember. Squirrels at most of my RVs wiring and I've been after fixing it for a year now. that means sometimes I think I remember something that's just a bit different than it actually works, but I get there eventually.

reded23 · 02-24-2019, 09:08 PM

You don't have a wiring diagram do you...I have every single other manual, a stack 3 inches high but not that !

sCarycary · 04-29-2019, 10:00 AM

I have a situation you might be able to help with. With both the chassis and house battery disconnects tirned off(batteries disconnected) I am hearing a clicking sound behind the fuse panel. I suspect one of the battery disconnect solenoids. I can't imagine why it would be cycling.

reded23 · 04-29-2019, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sCarycary

I have a situation you might be able to help with. With both the chassis and house battery disconnects tirned off(batteries disconnected) I am hearing a clicking sound behind the fuse panel. I suspect one of the battery disconnect solenoids. I can't imagine why it would be cycling.

Do you have shore power connected? It's probably the Isolator relay that joins the 2 batteries together. It works when battery voltages drop or are charging to connect the aux and main together. On the dashboard press the Aux connect switch and see if that stops it.
I attached the user guide.

Brecklundin · 04-30-2019, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sCarycary

I have a situation you might be able to help with. With both the chassis and house battery disconnects tirned off(batteries disconnected) I am hearing a clicking sound behind the fuse panel. I suspect one of the battery disconnect solenoids. I can't imagine why it would be cycling.

also check on the right side of the circuit board you will see a black button, that is to test the solinoid. I've had it get stuck open before yours might be just wacky enough to flip back & forth if the button is stuck in depressed position. So give it a shot and press it a few times. if all is good you'll feel it move and hear the solinoid click when you press it then release when you let it up.

If you can't feel it mive it's probably got some gunk in there. you can pull gently on the button and the top will come off revealing the actual switch. try a very soft toothbrush or a squirt if contact cleaner then work it until it moves freely again.