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Old 12-28-2020, 08:59 PM   #71
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Talking Replacing vehicle radio

Hello everyone,

I want to replace the radio in my '98 Aerbus XL3300s but I am not sure if the wiring will be similar to a regular car or if it is more specialized? Anyone have any tips/suggestions for wiring harness/diagram and radio brand(s) that are easy to install in the Rexhall?

Thanks in advance,

Alex S.
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Old 12-29-2020, 06:41 AM   #72
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Location: Shreveport, LA
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Radio

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex S. View Post
Hello everyone,

I want to replace the radio in my '98 Aerbus XL3300s but I am not sure if the wiring will be similar to a regular car or if it is more specialized? Anyone have any tips/suggestions for wiring harness/diagram and radio brand(s) that are easy to install in the Rexhall?

Thanks in advance,

Alex S.
The only problem you may run into is not motorhome or brand related, but rather how speakers were wired. You may find that they are "left - right" only and not "left - right" and "front - back". Modern radios need to have a load, ie a speaker on each speaker output. Other than than that, it should be straight forward.
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Old 02-21-2021, 08:13 AM   #73
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Posts: 351
I have a 2004 Roseair 3955 DP. It once had an L couch, but it was removed by b the previous owner. The dealer recarpeted the living room, but left the two bolts from the old L couch. I am also thinking about removing the extended part of the floor, but not sure what's underneeth.

My question is, how can I remove these bolts?
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2004 Rexhall Roseair. 3955ET 370
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Old 04-28-2022, 11:54 PM   #74
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1999 Rexhall RV

I did some research and found out the water heater has two source of heat , One is your LP gas that you use most of the time and the other is electric emergency back up. they took the anode out and retro fitted the emergency heating element in the place of it. I do not think you need the electric as much as you do the anode in you water tank especially if you have a metal tank, if you have an aluminum tank then just leave it. your switch on the inside is to turn on your gas heater part, your electric switch should be on the out side by your gas valve and the plug on mine is plug in under the storage area on the opposite side of the coach. Hope this help you and if I have it wrong please inform me as i am learning my Rexhall coach too.
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Old 04-30-2022, 08:56 PM   #75
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Spartan Chassis
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Location: Whatcom County, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bduemig View Post
I have a 2004 Roseair 3955 DP. It once had an L couch, but it was removed by b the previous owner. The dealer recarpeted the living room, but left the two bolts from the old L couch. I am also thinking about removing the extended part of the floor, but not sure what's underneeth.

My question is, how can I remove these bolts?
Odd that they hadn't bothered to cut them flush before re-carpeting.

The bolts you're asking about are carriage bolts that have a thin 2" diameter flat head that sits pretty much flush with the bottom of the slide. I removed and filled all of them from the exposed portion of the slide when it's out, and sliced off the "L" before I re-carpeted my 3955, eliminating the two you're talking about. You'll need a hammer to get them out. Alternatively, you could probably just cut off the bolt with a good metal blade on an oscillating saw; they're tight enough they probably won't slide down...
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Old 04-30-2022, 09:48 PM   #76
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Spartan Chassis
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Location: Whatcom County, WA
Posts: 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by gw4626 View Post
I did some research and found out the water heater has two source of heat , One is your LP gas that you use most of the time and the other is electric emergency back up. they took the anode out and retro fitted the emergency heating element in the place of it. I do not think you need the electric as much as you do the anode in you water tank especially if you have a metal tank, if you have an aluminum tank then just leave it. your switch on the inside is to turn on your gas heater part, your electric switch should be on the out side by your gas valve and the plug on mine is plug in under the storage area on the opposite side of the coach. Hope this help you and if I have it wrong please inform me as i am learning my Rexhall coach too.
Share a picture of your water heater, we can help.

In the meantime take a closer look; your coach may have fallen victim to some questionable maintenance or jury-rigging.

On most of the gas/electric Dometic, Atwood, and Suburban water heaters I've seen, the electric element is at the bottom, toward the left, tucked under the gas valve. To the right of it, you'll find the nipple for the drain / anode rod. Some units only had a teflon (or steel, if the owner wore out the threads) drain plug in that location, mine arrived in my hands with an anode rod.

The electric isn't for emergency; it would normally be your best choice when you're plugged into shore power, to minimize your LP use. Cheaper to "burn" the campground's electricity than your own expensive LP.

Many will run "dual" mode if their setup supports it, meaning that the gas system is turned on as well as the AC connection, making for rapid recovery of hot water. Some (my father's bumper tow) have two switches at the monitor panel, one for AC, one for gas, and nothing to prevent using both. Other rigs I've seen use a center off switch, one way for AC, the other for gas, preventing the use of both at once.

A picture is worth 1000 words...
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Don't mind Rosie's rust, she spent a large portion of her life at Ocean Shores before I got her...

Monty
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