21SW Charge Controller Location

[MacTarnahan]

Considering a 21SW, but it only has a single 45watt solar panel, can anyone tell me the location of the charge controller. Wondering how difficult it would be to change it out to a higher amp rated MPPT.

I am assuming the stock one is a a 10 or 20 amp PMW.

Also was thinking of a 180 or 200 watt portable solar panel to plug into the side. Does this go through the stock charge controller (I assume it would) or would I need a separate charge controller for the portable array. Looking at Renogy webpage it looks like almost all the portable units come with attached charge controller. It is odd, the one portable w/o controller is more expensive than the same wattage array with the controller. I'm guessing it must have better (upgraded) panels.

So if I change out the interior Charge Controller for a better one, I wouldn't need a second controller for the portable panels. I would just need to make sure I get a big enough controller to handle the 45 watt on the roof and the 200 watt portable.

Again, biggest question would be where is the stock charge controller and how difficult it would ne to change it out.

Thanks

[theboondork.]

I can't answer all of your questions but I'll take a shot at the ones I think I can.

The 45 wattt panel is probably there to trickle charge a battery at least that's the only thing I could think it would be there for, because it wouldn't be of any any use to actually run anything other than a few LED lights.

It would help to know what you're trying to do with your solar panels, how much time you plan on boondocking and using them, and what you're trying to run off the batteries that the solar panels will have to keep charged up.

Not knowing that I'll just make some general observations. Hooking up a solar controller is relatively simple, I've done it three times already without setting anything on fire, so it must be incredibly simple. Based on the way I boondock, and the things I run off my batteries I will say 200 W panels is the barest of minimum. But the good thing about solar panels is you can always add more if you need them, if you have a big enough solar controller to handle the extra panels, so I've always bought a controller that is more than I think I'm going to need, and I've never been sorry.

Personally I wouldn't go through the hassle of dealing with that 45 W panel at all, its just taking up roof space where you can put a 100 W panel that would actually do you some good.

Yes there are good panels, and there are cheap panels, as usual you get what you pay for. And the same thing applies to your solar controller. Which is why it's helpful to know what it's going to be used for, and for how long.

I have no idea where your present controller is but I can say it shouldn't be hard to change out. And if it was hooked up properly it should be very close to your batteries.

theboondork.com

[theboondork.]

I'm sorry, I didn't read down in your signature far enough to realize that you're going to full time and this trailer, so let me modify what I said previously.

I'm a full timer living in a 30 foot Arctic Fox fifth wheel, and I put 840 Watts of solar panels on the roof and 400 A of lithium iron batteries under the bed, and that gives me all the electricity I need to live a comfortable life without ever needing to plug in. Remember not every day is going to be sunny, and in the winter the sun is low on the horizon so you don't get much charging. You need enough solar panels, and a large enough battery bank so you can go for several days without much charging going on.

But there again it depends on what parts of the country you plan on staying in while you're full timing. I spend my summers Colorado, lots of sunshine in Colorado. And I spend my winters in Arizona or southern Texas, lots of sun in those places during the winter. If you going to be in places where it's frequently cloudy, the Pacific Northwest comes to mind, you'll probably need more solar panels and more batteries.

If you have any questions just let me know. I know what you're going through, I've been there.

theboondork.com

[MacTarnahan]

Originally Posted by theboondork.

I can't answer all of your questions but I'll take a shot at the ones I think I can.

The 45 wattt panel is probably there to trickle charge a battery at least that's the only thing I could think it would be there for, because it wouldn't be of any any use to actually run anything other than a few LED lights.

It would help to know what you're trying to do with your solar panels, how much time you plan on boondocking and using them, and what you're trying to run off the batteries that the solar panels will have to keep charged up.

Not knowing that I'll just make some general observations. Hooking up a solar controller is relatively simple, I've done it three times already without setting anything on fire, so it must be incredibly simple. Based on the way I boondock, and the things I run off my batteries I will say 200 W panels is the barest of minimum. But the good thing about solar panels is you can always add more if you need them, if you have a big enough solar controller to handle the extra panels, so I've always bought a controller that is more than I think I'm going to need, and I've never been sorry.

Personally I wouldn't go through the hassle of dealing with that 45 W panel at all, its just taking up roof space where you can put a 100 W panel that would actually do you some good.

Yes there are good panels, and there are cheap panels, as usual you get what you pay for. And the same thing applies to your solar controller. Which is why it's helpful to know what it's going to be used for, and for how long.

I have no idea where your present controller is but I can say it shouldn't be hard to change out. And if it was hooked up properly it should be very close to your batteries.

theboondork.com

Yes, I was thinking of just removing the 45w entirely and looks like I have room for 3 170w panels on roof but there are only 2 input/plug ins for the panels. So I will probably put 2 170w panels on roof, then the 200 suitcase type portable plugged into the side input plug.

The trailer (toy hauler) also has a 4k Onan, but I would be trying to limit that as much as possible. 2 x 30lb propane tanks so that seems quite sufficient for heater,, hot water, and fridge.

I am single so don't think I would have a large energy draw. Don't watch a lot of tv, haven't had one in house for two years now.

Was thinking of replacing the single AGM 12 volt with 2 Battle Born 110ah 12 volts.

THanks for the information.

[theboondork.]

Now you're thinking in the right direction. I also travel solo so your electrical needs will not be a lot different from mine. A single 12 V battery will barely keep your lights on at night. I have four 12 V BattleBorn lithium iron batteries and they've kept me in electricity while boondocking for the last three years.

Put as many solar panels on the roof as you possibly can, there's no such thing as too many. Putting them on the ground is possible and I see it done all the time. But the downside is they can get blown over quite easily, the annoyance of constantly changing their positions to face the sun, and packing them away every time you go to town, so they don't get stolen, or blown over and broken

My Arctic Fox came with a TV and I seldom if ever use it. My 17 inch laptop is where most of my entertainment comes from, including writing on forums like this, and especially writing my blog everyday.

Generators are great if you need air-conditioning, but their noise is annoying to your neighbors. I've solved that problem by not owning a generator, getting all my electricity from solar panels, and staying in places where I don't need air-conditioning even though I boondock 95% of the time. Choosing your locations properly is a good start to being a happy camper.

Anywhere you stay during the winter including southern Arizona where I'm at, you will still need some heat on some days. And you will quickly find out that your RVs furnace uses up your batteries amps at an alarming rate, mine uses about 10 A an hour, it sucks up propane like it's free, sends about 20% of your heat outside. And makes a lot of racket. The solution is a propane radiant heater that uses no electricity, is 99% efficient, and sips propane. I've had mine for six years and is a key component to staying comfortable while boondocking.

If you want to be a happy boondocker, and be able to stay out as long as you want without hookups, and be just as comfortable as you are in an RV Park design your system so you can live "almost" just like you do at home. If you find yourself "roughing it", and have to run to an RV Park every four or five days for hookups, you're not doing it right.

My last bit of advice, as if anyone asked for it, is don't assume that the way you "think" your full-timing life is going to be the way it's actually going to be when you get on the road. I thought I was going to stay in RV parks almost as much as I boondocked, but after I was on the road a year or so I found out I didn't like staying in RV parks, but I loved boondocking, so I had to buy more solar panels and batteries.

So the point is you might not want to spend a bunch of money before you hit the road on a lifestyle that may change after you've experienced being a full timer. Especially since RV parks are getting crowded, harder to get reservations for, and more expensive.

theboondork.com

[Vintage465]

If I was buying panels again I'd look very closely at he foot print vs. wattage. I have three 150w Samlex panels and the foot print is the same size as 200w Rich Solar panels. Grape solar and other also have a similar foot print with higher wattage. I knew nothing about solar when we purchased the coach and relied on the dealer to do right by the install. Wasted a lot of money. I'd do things different if I was doing it again.

[MacTarnahan]

Originally Posted by Vintage465

If I was buying panels again I'd look very closely at he foot print vs. wattage. I have three 150w Samlex panels and the foot print is the same size as 200w Rich Solar panels. Grape solar and other also have a similar foot print with higher wattage. I knew nothing about solar when we purchased the coach and relied on the dealer to do right by the install. Wasted a lot of money. I'd do things different if I was doing it again.

Yes, I’m driving down to pay for the trailer, they are going to store it for me until I’m ready to find a place nearer me for it. But while I’m there I am going to measure out the vacant spots on the roof and then I will use those measurements to determine the different sizes and orientations that will work for the best amount of solar.
Not a large roof on the 25 foot trailer and much is taken up with the two vents/fans snd the a/c.