Community Forums

dougrc12 · 06-16-2022, 05:35 PM

Can anyone confirm that the 4 gauge wiring going from the converter/charger to the battery compartment in my 2004 29.5 5th wheel is one straight run with no connection in between? The converter/charger is in the very back of the unit while the battery compartment is in the very front. I'd guess it's about a 25' run. I'm getting about a 1v drop in voltage level from the charger to the batteries under charge, which is killing the charge rate on my new lithium ion battery. I've already cleaned all the terminal blocks in the battery compartment. Next step is to put new ends on 4 gauge wires in the battery compartment, but if there is an intermediate connection point somewhere in-between I want to check that first.

Thanks much!

TacomaJoe · 06-16-2022, 06:54 PM

There may be a circuit breaker on the frame near the battery. Small 1" cube with a couple of studs for wires and maybe a tiny reset button.

dougrc12 · 06-17-2022, 03:27 PM

I emailed Northwood Mfg.s service department this morning asking for the wiring diagram for my old Arctic Fox. Got a reply about 2 hours later with full wiring diagrams for the unit. Wow! That's support! Way to go Northwood!

Unfortunately there's no factory wiring for the charger/converter and battery box indicated. It must be dealer installed.

Rotten-Red · 06-17-2022, 07:58 PM

That makes no sense. The converter and battery mount is factory installed. The batteries are installed at the dealer but the wiring is already there. I have a 2008 Nash only 4 years newer than yours. Follow the battery wires to see where they go. Mine go from the batteries up into the belly under the skin right behind the hitch. There are circuit breakers under the skin. Mine has a removable piece that can be taken off to access the wires and breakers.

Old-Biscuit · 06-17-2022, 08:28 PM

There should be a FUSE/DC Circuit Breaker on Battery POS cable close to battery
Otherwise a direct wiring to Converter

**Where is the DC Dist FUSE Panel?
Converter DC Output and Battery POS/NEG cables should go to the DC Dist FUSE panel

Are you sure you 2004 Converter is OK for Lithium Battery Charging?

dougrc12 · 06-18-2022, 10:53 AM

Rotten-Red,

I agree. I've attached the drawings for your review. Battery box is the foremost compartment drivers side. Fresh water tank compartment is immediately behind it with 12v power going indicated to the water pump (WP). No 12v wiring to battery compartment shown. Charger/converter is in the very rear mounted on the floor in cabinetry between the pantry and the kitchen sink. AC power to it runs from the J-box under the pantry. Again, nothing showing in diagram.

dougrc12 · 06-18-2022, 11:04 AM

Old-Biscuit,

Thanks! I replaced my Progressive Dynamics, 9160A w/Charge Wizard controller with a new 9160AL. I've also verified that it was pushing out 14.6v at it's output terminals.

I removed everything from the battery compartment and did not find any circuit breakers, but did discover an aluminum alloy terminal strip for 12v neutral (negative). It appears the 12v lead from the charger/converter is going to one end of this strip, from which 12v neutral is distributed to multiple locations in the rig. The lead to the batteries comes off the opposite end of the strip so the stip is in the path to my batteries. Not good! I've had bad luck with these alloy connections in other venues so I think I've found the problem. I'm going to rewire so the charger goes to the battery terminal connector first, then to the terminal strip and see what happens. I'll let you know. Thanks again for the response.

Vintage465 · 06-19-2022, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dougrc12

Can anyone confirm that the 4 gauge wiring going from the converter/charger to the battery compartment in my 2004 29.5 5th wheel is one straight run with no connection in between? The converter/charger is in the very back of the unit while the battery compartment is in the very front. I'd guess it's about a 25' run. I'm getting about a 1v drop in voltage level from the charger to the batteries under charge, which is killing the charge rate on my new lithium ion battery. I've already cleaned all the terminal blocks in the battery compartment. Next step is to put new ends on 4 gauge wires in the battery compartment, but if there is an intermediate connection point somewhere in-between I want to check that first.

Thanks much!

I think a #4 wire would be pretty optomistic. ORV and Northwood are better than the industry standard but I don't think they're "#4 better". My ORV had a #8 conductor from the converter to the batteries. I upped it to a #2. I also upped the Solar to #4 to the controller and put controller in the pass thru closer to the batteries. I was losing a 1/2 volt with the #8 solar wire and the controller in the o/h cabinet above the bed.

dougrc12 · 06-20-2022, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vintage465

I think a #4 wire would be pretty optomistic. ORV and Northwood are better than the industry standard but I don't think they're "#4 better". My ORV had a #8 conductor from the converter to the batteries. I upped it to a #2. I also upped the Solar to #4 to the controller and put controller in the pass thru closer to the batteries. I was losing a 1/2 volt with the #8 solar wire and the controller in the o/h cabinet above the bed.

You're right V465. The cables from my charger/converter to the battery compartment are heavily insulated 6 gauge which makes them look larger than they are. The cables in the battery compartment running from terminal studs to the batteries themselves are all 4 gauge. I'd assumed 4 gauge was being used throughout.

I have the connector now to rewire the neutral wire from the charger/converter directly to the terminal stud for the batteries, which takes a terminal strip out of the neutral path. With luck I"ll get that done today and post the result.

Thanks for the responses!

dougrc12 · 06-21-2022, 09:23 PM

Improved my single LI battery charging from 9 amps to 27 amps. Had to keep the original wiring scheme so my Tri-Metric battery monitor functioned properly. Lots of cleaning of the aluminum alloy terminal strip contacts along with the application of aluminum anti-oxidizer were the only changes necessary. My Progressive Dynamics 9160AL is rated at a 60 amp output. I'm not getting half that charging a single battery, however the typical config would be two batteries which if they both took 27 amps each would get me close.

If I had a DC amp meter and the right short cables I'd love to see how that charge rate would compare to the 25-30' run of 6 gauge I've got between the charger and the battery compartment in the RV, but I probably won't go out and spend $100 for a DC amp meter just to do a test.