Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssgritton
Now this is a cool idea,
how did you remote start from inside????
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Most inverter generators at 3000 watts or above have remote start kits you can buy off eBay. There is even a guy that devised an electric start kit for the little Honda EU2000. I saw a demo of it on Youtube a year or two ago.
As for the two generators I use with my truck camper...
My EU2000 runs on propane and has a direct feed piped into the Camper's gen-box (
a Northstar Arrow-U) so it runs in place. There is no need to ever remove it from the camper to run it.
The only thing I remoted into the camper on the Honda was the ECO Throttle On/Off switch so I can control the speed from inside, but I still have to go out to my camper's gen-box to start & stop it. Obviously since the EU2000 is a 'pull-start'
As for the 3500 watt Predator. . .
The entire front panel is on a large mulit pin connector and is completely removable. Very simple to mount the entire thing (
or just the Start/Stop and metering) inside the camper.
Generators at 3000 watts and above are usually key start so they remote rather easy.
Also note that the Predator 3500 comes in a multitude of variations according to which version you buy and what your needs are.
See below. . .
Note that generators that use a carburetor need a choke solenoid or choke cable added to be remoted (which can be a bit of a PITA), but fuel injected generators are 100% remote control ready.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diginomad
I've seen the Predator here and there. So inexpensive. People swear by them. I paid about double for my Yamaha.
I have wondered about the Predator output quality.
Can you put it on an oscilloscope to verify the sine wave quality?
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I did some testing on these generators side by side.
Please keep in mind my goal here was to get the most
quiet machine possible so I can run it at night in the summer, but I did check the following with the Honda EU2000i, EU3000i, EU6500i, and Predator 3500. . .
1.) Full disassembly down to the engine/generator & electronics blocks.
2.) Paralleling tests between the various models.
I found that any inverter would 'sync' with any other inverter almost instantly.
3.) Sound tests at Zero load, 750 watts, 1500W, 2250W, and 3000W.
Obviously the EU6500 was the quietest, with the Predator 3500 a close second.
4.) The output wave forms were also observed & compared on a four trace oscilloscope for any signs of distortion in the sine wave at each of the load settings.
Note that although I have a power quality analyzer I did NOT do a power quality survey since my load boxes are 90% resistive and I was not about to use my camper as a 'test load' for a garbage power source like a small generator.
Additionally, I know for a fact that the power quality from an EU2000i under full load will deteriorate as heat in the electronics builds and the output voltage starts to sag. Note that an EU2000 will not drop its load until is gets under 90 VAC. That's death to your AC unit by the way.
But on a more positive note...
The Honda EU2000i is an amazing unit and it has proven itself in many an RV getting pushed to its breaking point for hours & hours in hot weather.
The 120 volt equipment inside your camper may be getting getting beat to hell by it, but the generator itself is almost impossible to kill.
If you install a MicroAir 364 on your AC unit, and you honestly dont mind the loud noise of the EU2000 running, then I would say the Honda EU2000 should be a plausible option for your camper.
The new EU2200 would be even better, but alas, its LOUDER still.
Happy shopping & keep us posted!
-Jake-