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Old 03-31-2018, 11:22 AM   #15
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We have a 2001, 1 slide Eagle Cap 950. We haul it on a 14 F350 SRW diesel with air bags. The unit is built very stout, and is heavy. I am basically overloaded, before I add much to the camper. We love the unit, unless there is much wind, then the wife is not too pleased. We ended up buying a DP and I use the camper for hunting and fishing trips with my kids. I know that a dually, would have solved the "wind/wife" issues, but she really likes having a larger home on wheels.....
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Old 04-02-2018, 02:01 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by araucano View Post
Hello everyone:
I gave up Rving a good three years ago.......I can't stay away from it all.My question concerns about owning a truck camper.
I have a Ford 250,V10 and I'd like to put a camper on it,
need advice big time,I'd consider buying a used camper(Truck has 120Ks)
I used to pull a 25.4 fifth wheel.Before I jump in or consider a used unit I'd love to hear from experience owners,concerning what to watch for.Many thanks in advance,araucano.
Based on the year of your F250, the 99-2002 era single rear wheel (SRW) 250 and 350 SRW shared all the same components including axles (Sterling 10.5), brakes, etc. The only difference was the 350 has 4" blocks and the 250 was 2" blocks and the sticker inside the door jam said 8800 lbs or 9900 lbs GVWR. Hopefully yours has the "camper package"? The 350 dually got the Dana 44 axle.
I have hauled truck campers since the 80's. The best part for me is you don't have to buy something with an engine (motor home) to maintain and you can haul a trailer/boat/toad/ behind them. They are easy to store as they don't take up a lot of room and they are hard to beat for boon docking.
Mine has a slide-out that sagged and required repair (dealer wanted $2700 and I fixed it for $160.00. They now copy MY repair job with others that they fix.
There is less storage than a 5th wheel (obviously). One way to combat this is to tow a small utility trailer or (what I do) pull a small toad and load the toad. I installed an RVI3 Brake System to the toad to aid stopping power and relieving some of the truck brake load.
The new cab overs are so expensive it seems hard to pencil them out anymore though. According to my dealer service guy, the newer ones are made worse than the older ones. Mines 2001 and pristine. I think it was built o.k.(except for the slide bracing) but needed work even buying it then. The new ones seems to be built with spit and elmers glue construction.
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Old 04-02-2018, 02:39 PM   #17
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We solved the which one is best dilemma by keeping our fifth wheel and acquiring a truck camper. The fiver was paid for and insuring it is cheap. When we winter in Florida there is no getting around the big bath and the added space of the fiver, but what a pain dragging it down the Interstate.

When we head West for the summer, we take the truck camper. We love the mobility and never having to worry about making campground reservations.

We have owned everything from big diesel class As to our truck camper, 17 RVs now in total and have enjoyed every one. However, they each have their strengths and weaknesses.
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Old 04-02-2018, 02:50 PM   #18
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The F350 DRW used the Dana 80 axle and now uses the Dana 300. The Dana 44 was used mostly for half ton applications or less.
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Old 04-02-2018, 10:15 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bedlam View Post
The F350 DRW used the Dana 80 axle and now uses the Dana 300. The Dana 44 was used mostly for half ton applications or less.
My Jeep TJ has a Dana 44.
My Son's Nissan pickup has a Dana 44.
They were used in the Chevy Corvette, Dodge Viper, and about a million other small vehicles since the 1950's.
Good stuff!
Quote:
Originally Posted by outpost22 View Post
I have hauled truck campers since the 80's. The best part for me is you don't have to buy something with an engine (motor home) to maintain and you can haul a trailer/boat/toad/ behind them. They are easy to store as they don't take up a lot of room and they are hard to beat for boon docking.

Mine has a slide-out that sagged and required repair (dealer wanted $2700 and I fixed it for $160.00. They now copy MY repair job with others that they fix.
From reading many of the posts in this thread I can see that the RV/Camper knowledge & experience here is incredibly thorough.
I'm no mechanic but I have found that most anything that needs to be modified or repaired on a truck or camper can certainly be done better by the owner than any dealer.

I have a great amount of appreciation for the members here that have been keeping their equipment running for years and years on their own.
-Ej-
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Old 06-01-2018, 01:36 PM   #20
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Small bed popup camper on full bed truck.

I have a 30 year old Skamper pop-up on a basic 2016 Ford F150 XL shortbed. I love the ability to stealth camp when the top is down and it's light enough that I can still tow a small trailer with motorcycles. The base F150 handles it with no issues. At a sustained 75-80 mph, my gas mileage goes from 22 mpg to about 16.5.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Vehicles/...7_171428-L.jpg

One great aspect of the old 1988 Skamper is that it is SOLID plywood and has an aluminum roof. No compressed sawdust MDF or rot anywere. Unfortunately, the Skamper has very little internal storage, the normal dings of 30 years, & looks dated enough that I'm looking for something newer and light enough for the F150. Unfortunately so far, the newer ones cost more than I want to spend.

The camper was made for small bed trucks like the Ranger and Tacoma, has an empty weight of 800, and gross weight of only 950 lbs. I had to build an 8" tall rack to elevate the bed area to clear the top of the truck's cab and at each corner a turnbuckle and chain are rated to nearly double what the entire camper weighs. I've done some basic calcs and as an engineer am not concerned about the capability of the Ford corner tie-downs for this. Even with the lifted camper the combo has been rock solid in big side winds. A 6 ft ladder fits beneath in the rack and the ladder is for both boarding the tailgate and tying kayaks to the roof.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Vehicles/...8_104336-L.jpg

I had three reasons to post. One was that it works and is easily within the weight capability of the truck, the second was the need for the rack. But the real reason for posting is the hazard of using small truck camper jack poles for the extra height. Even putting the jacks on concrete blocks, the camper sways to and fro enough to make jack collapse a potential reality. This problem was compounded on my sloped driveway. If a jack collapses, the camper is going to fall on YOU. After doing it with the spindly poles once, my response was to build a set of lifts out of 2x6s with 1100# winches from Tractor Supply. Now I can have it on or off in about 20-30 minutes.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Vehicles/...8_105812-L.jpg

One last note about connecting the front turnbuckles. Before mounting the camper, I attach the chains and turnbuckles to the forward corner truck bed points. Then tie a string to the tops of the turnbuckles and hang the string over the sides of the truck bed. That way, when the camper is in place, you can simply put the string through the screw eyes on the camper and pull up the turnbuckles to connect them. Otherwise, you need a skinny little person to connect the chains through the hatches in the front corners of the camper. You can see the string in the photo of the rack if you look in the right forward corner of the truck bed.
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