CG owner needs your help designing the perfect campsite

[JavaJelly]

I own a Jellystone Campground and we will be building about 30 new sites in the fall. I need your help in how to design them. My engineer is coming out tomorrow.

They will be pull through and on an angle to the road.

What does the ideal site look like to you guys? Is more pad important or more grass? Outside of the picnic table and fire ring, what else would you like to see?

40' x 70' is the approximate site dimension but, we will go bigger everywhere we can.

We are a family based park and will be putting in a waterpark at the same time. So try to think of being kid friendly too.

Anything you've seen out there that made a difference to you is helpful too.

Please be reasonable, this means you Dirk.

[JavaJelly]

I own a Jellystone Campground and we will be building about 30 new sites in the fall. I need your help in how to design them. My engineer is coming out tomorrow.

They will be pull through and on an angle to the road.

What does the ideal site look like to you guys? Is more pad important or more grass? Outside of the picnic table and fire ring, what else would you like to see?

40' x 70' is the approximate site dimension but, we will go bigger everywhere we can.

We are a family based park and will be putting in a waterpark at the same time. So try to think of being kid friendly too.

Anything you've seen out there that made a difference to you is helpful too.

Please be reasonable, this means you Dirk.

[Route 66]

Level, level, level.

Ease of pull thru with no obstacles making site access difficult.

Sites on enough of an angle for ease of pull thru.

I prefer parking on paved surfaces.

50 amp, of course.

No trees to block satellite access. However, I realize that many folks like the shade.

Hookups closer to the center of the site allows more parking options if there are trees that could block satellite reception.

That wasn't unreasonable was it?

$10 a night. I know, THAT'S unreasonable.

[Pusherman]

I personally like the trees, so keep some in-between sites for overall shade. Maybe you can orient the sites so that the actual site is oriented southwest, towards the birds in the sky. That way you can still have the trees in between the sites for shade and the satellite dishes will still work.

Also some kind of screening between sites for a little privacy. Natural stuff, like shrubs and trees.

Good ground cover when not on a pad. Grass is fine.

Pad wide enough for patio area under awning.

Dump drain located within 1-10' hose length of coach (but 15' is not unreasonable as most people carry a 20' also).

Electric (50A) close enough to not have to use an extension.

All the stuff Dirk listed but with shade trees (not in Dirk's sattelite's way, of course).

WiFi that works (I've read your other posts on this, Scott, but it sure seems most campgrounds who do have WiFi, it doesn't seem to work).

P.S. I'm OK with no pads as long as there is a good solid ground cover so you don't track dirt into the coach. I'm sure others have other opinions on this one. Fine gravel is a pain, however, as it tracks into the coach.

P.S. Thanks for asking!

[fargo]

I have a self contained RV with which I've been travelling the country, taking in the sights, museums etc. going on fifteen years now.
My "camping" days have been over for quite some time now (did lots of it while the kids were young, no more hot dogs or marshmellows water slides etc.).When my sight seeing day is over my needs are for a spot to park the rig for the night,nothing more most nights.Every now and then need fresh water or a dumping station.

A parking lot with a service post at each space supplying power and water (dumping station on the way out of lot) would be ideal and totally sufficient for me and a large number of other people;us baby boomers have outgrown the water slides.
This should lower your cost and mine for a section of your park at least.
If this is totally unfeasable, I for one would like to understand why.

[Nonno]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Hookups closer to the center of the site </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I agree with Dirk but my reason has to do with hookups. Been to some sites where the pull thru feature is useless because you have to disconnect and park the MH at the rear of the site in order to connect.

Another consideration would be amount of space on the drivers side. Been to some sites where there is more than ample space curb side but when you extend your driver side slides they are just about into the landscaping making it difficult if not impossible to open storage bays.

[GaryKD]

Hi Scott,
In addition to what has been posted, how about:
1. two sewer connections per site! Each about 1/3 away from the site mid point.
2. No sewer hookups near my neighbor's table, grill or sitting area.
3. Easy manuvering roads for entry and exit.
4. Decorative fencing or equivilant to stop aimless wandering of people through occupied sites.
5. A bit more width "than the average bear" for each site. This affords a much greater feeling of "home" and privacy.
6. No side by side hookups. But you already knew that.
The previous postsers are right on the mark.

[NLOVNIT]

I'll agree with what everyone else has said so far.

But I do have one pet-peeve: Hard to read or non-existent site numbers. I can't begin to count how many CG's we've been in where we couldn't easily tell what the site numbers are (is site 2 left of that post or right of it?). Make sure the site numbers are LARGE enough to be seen from the campground road without needing to get out of our vehicles to see it. Also, post the numbers on BOTH sides of the post - for those of us who happen to have meandered up the down interior road by mistake.

Actually, Little Farm on the River in Rising Sun, IN had an ideal numbering set up. The site numbers were large & lighted on the top of the shore power box. The lights came on, automatically, at dusk so they could easily be seen at night.

L-

[Ray,IN]

Family-oriented means lots of shade and grassy areas for families to play and interact with other families. I have stayed at several jellystone RV parks and every one was virtually full all the time. Children were playing everywhere there was grass for them to play on, and shady, grassy areas were always occupied with kids of all ages.
Jellystone type resorts are not, nor should they be, confused with adult oriented RV parks. You are not going to please every segment of the RVing community, that is fact.
Now that our children are grown and have families, we do not patronize theme parks of any specific type. heck, we do not like to stay in a 55+ park. If a park is clean, well planned-out, organized, and has an opening, we will stay if they have room.
Adequate water volume and pressure is important, as is adequate electrical capability. Sewer connection is a quandary, RV manufacturers are not concerned with your problem of placement of line/access points. Motorhomes usually have their connection at the rear of the coach, trailers are usually mid-point. This equates to two access points per site. Then you encounter the issue Dirk pointed out; how do you avoid placement near the next site's picnic table and leisure area?

[Tom N]

Angle sites from the street.

One 10' section of split rail or 2 rail fencing between each site.

No tree limbs over hanging parking pads.

Paved streets.

Set up parking pads so the utility/drivers side has enough room for a slide out PLUS the swing of the basement doors if the compartments go out with the slide.

Paint site number on the curb or the street in front of site.

If possible have some no pet sites.

Place fire ring as far away from the adjacent RVs as possible and fix to the ground.

A couple photos of my summer PA lot under construction in 2005. 30X8 concrete patio. Gravel pad. My buddy owns the CG.

-Tom

[Kyle241]

I agree with what people have already listed, they are all good ideas. Depending on the finish of the site, another is:

- adequate drainage (e.g. drain pipes under pads, etc.)

I have been to sites that had none and ones that have, big difference. Presently I am at a campground that has no drainage, no pad and little to no gravel. It's raining and all I see are pools (not puddles) of water that will take 2-3 days to drain/evaporate - it's terrible but I have little choice as I am working in the area. I have also been to a nice place in PA that has full gravel pads with multiple drainage pipes and I never see pooled water. It makes it easy to walk the dogs, get to your car/truck, etc.

[JavaJelly]

Well this was a stupid idea. The pressure is really on now. If I incorporate all the suggestions, I think I can still keep the price down to $142/night.

Just kidding. These suggestions are great. It will be tough to accommodate every one but, I am now consolidating them. I completely forgot to mention drainage to the engineer today. Thanks Kyle.

It will be tough for us to justify the parking lot style, quick come and go sites as we have less than 10 customers like that a year. Just not near any freeway.

The toughest trade-off is positioning of the ped, half way up or about 30% from the back. I do understand the need to have flexibility but, it then infringes more on the site behind.

Current design is 70' long by 40' wide sites on a 60 degree angle. Concrete pad 16' wide. Double sewer connections w/ped half way up. Plenty of apron space to enter and exit. The pad will have to taper a bit side to side, about 1" for drainage.

Question: if you have a concrete pad for a picnic table and sitting, do you care what the rig sits on, as long as it is level?

Queston 2: what is the preferred set back of the pedestal from the pad? I'm thinking 4' should clear any slideouts but, would 3' work? The closer the pedestal the less it infringes on the site behind.

[Route 66]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Question: if you have a concrete pad for a picnic table and sitting, do you care what the rig sits on, as long as it is level?

Queston 2: what is the preferred set back of the pedestal from the pad? I'm thinking 4' should clear any slideouts but, would 3' work? The closer the pedestal the less it infringes on the site behind. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Parking on concrete or hot mix is the cleanest, but most expensive.

Concrete cracks, and jacks damage hot mix.

A mixture of different sized stone is OK as long there is no stone dust in it, but weeds like to grow in this option.

Grass soon turns to dirt and mud.

I think 4' is better as it gives more clearance for slides, and bay doors.

[C&C R]

My suggestion is to do the best with the ideas that you can and keep the rates reasonable. With the cost of fuel, people are going to be looking for reasonably priced campgrounds. At least we are. I'm willing to pay "extra" for 50 amp,but don't want to pay for everyone else to have it.
Keeping rates down is our main suggestion.