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Old 05-13-2019, 09:16 AM   #1
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To Utah

I'm located in Mesa Az now. Trying to fine the best way up to Utah. Would like to miss the mountains as much as possible. Driving 03 Allegro 36ft bus DP. First time driving in the mountains with it. The wife wants to see some of the canyons. So I'm looking for best route to see a least 1 or 2 of the canyons. We are full timer so time route is not a factor. Thanks for any help!
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Old 05-13-2019, 09:52 AM   #2
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There is so much to see in northern Arizona and southern Utah.

Simplest is north on 17 to Flagstaff, 89 north to Page, AZ. That will get you to the southern end of Lake Powell - my favorite place in the Universe.

Then SE on 98 to 160 and Kayenta, north on 163 which takes you through Monument Valley and on to Mexican Hat.

About 4 miles north of Mexican Hat is hwy 261 on the left which will take you to Goosenecks SP if you want to see that. I can't recommend you continue northbound on 261 because it goes up Moki Dugway. You're trying to avoid the mountains and the dugway is a STEEP and narrow gravel road, doable but intimidating. I've been up and down it but in my 23' class C.

After seeing or skipping Goosenecks, return to 163 northbound to Bluff and Moab if you choose.

I'll follow the thread and add as you go, depending on your chosen route. Have fun, I LOVE the red sandstone desert.

Moki Dugway
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Old 05-13-2019, 01:16 PM   #3
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Don't let the above photo of Moki Dugway turn you off. That is nothing like you'll be driving in this whole area & it's not typically driven with a RV. That's a side trip with your vehicle.... unless you're 'CIDE'.


Your diesel is fully capable of doing mountains. After you do one you'll feel like a pro!! Uphill is no issue. Downhill - get into lower gear before you even start going down. Don't try it in the midst of a downhill. Many are four lanes so the first time or two just get in right lane and take it slow. You most likely will be behind the slow semi trucks. You need to learn to drive these roads because that's where the beauty is!! You'll be fine.

For your first stop out of Mesa I'd recommend first staying in Cottonwood, AZ at Dead Horse Ranch State Park and then taking the car to tour nearby Sedona. If you're a hiker there are some beautiful easy trails. This small town can get very congested that's why we always stay at Dead Horse Ranch.


Then Grand Canyon South Rim then on to Zion National Park, Bryce National Park and Arches National Park. They are all easy to get to with no major mountains.

Here are the easiest routes to tour the above but you'll still have some 'hills'. From Mesa take I-17 north (an uphill to the Prescott exit area then you'll have a downhill to Camp Verde/Cottonwood. This will probably be your biggest downhill on this whole trip. Downshift and stay in right lane. Use your brakes off and on. Don't stay on them. For Cottonwood take Exit 287 and head west on 260 to Dead Horse Ranch State Park. When leaving go back to I-17.

Continue north on I-17 and now you'll have an uphill climb to Flagstaff.

For Grand Canyon South Rim you can go two ways. The shortest is from I-17 at I-40 continue straight across I-40 onto 180. You'll be going thru town for a short distance but it will take you to Hwy 64 north and on to Grand Canyon. Try to get a site at Trailer Village in the park itself. The free shuttle stops right there. If you can't, there's a RV park in Tusayan just before the park entrance.

Another way to Grand Canyon from I-17 is at Flagstaff take I-40 west to Williams, AZ then 64 north. Some people stay in Williams but it's a long drive into Grand Canyon if you plan to do it more than once. You can also take the train from Williams and it's expensive and you only get a few hours in the park - not enough time. Try to stay in the park itself for the best experience.

When leaving Grand Canyon drive into the park (if not staying there already) and take 64 east which will take you to Hwy 89 at Cameron, AZ. Take 89 north into Page, AZ - stay a night or two. Antelope Canyon tours are here and also a tour of the dam. Wahweap campground in Glen Canyon Nat'l Recreation Area is very nice & there may be others. If you just want to spend a night or two dry camping continue on 89 just out of town and on the right will be Lone Rock recreation area on the lake. Turn right off 89 and just past the entrance station on the left is a nice large flat hard-packed gravel area to dry camp with beautiful views of the lake. There will be others there. Don't go below to park on the beach unless you really are confident of driving on sand. Some of it is very soft.

The easiest way to Zion National Park from Page is to continue on 89 to Kanab, UT then turn south on 89 a short distance back to Arizona at Fredonia. From Fredonia take 389 west which becomes Utah 59 taking you to Hurricane, UT at Hwy 9. To Zion go east on Hwy 9. There are RV parks in Hurricane, Virgin and Springdale - if you can't get a site in the park at Watchman campground (electric, dump & water fill). If staying in Springdale the Zion free shuttle makes stops in this small town taking you into the park. (If you look on the map around Page you'll see you have a choice to Fredonia by taking 89 into Page, and the above directions or taking 89A which would also take you to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon via 64 south. Taking 89 is the flattest. 89A you'll have a curvy long uphill but it's very doable with a RV & many do it.) If you do want to do the North Rim rather than the South Rim, take 64 south and there's a RV park in Jacob Lake (no lake, by the way) or else continue on the flat 64 south & just before the North Rim entrance in DeMotte national forest campground which is very nice. Or else continue driving on 64 south into the North Rim & try for their campground. The North Rim is very quiet compared to the South Rim and it's a lot cooler.

Next stop after Zion - Bryce Canyon National Park. To avoid a steep, curvy climb out of Zion & the tunnels, from Hwy 9 go west to I-15. Then take I-15 north to Circleville and Hwy 20. (Don't be tempted to take Hwy 14 at Cedar City - you won't like it!) Take Hwy 20 east to Hwy 89. Turn south on 89 toward Panguitch and shortly you'll turn left onto Hwy 12 taking you to Bryce. This is a flat drive. You'll have one tunnel to drive through & even tall buses fit so don't worry about it. Around the tunnel on the right you'll see Red Canyon national forest campground. This could be a option for staying for Bryce. I don't think they take reservations but it's worth a try. It's very pretty. Try first for the sites on the left as they're bigger. We like it. Ruby's RV is at the Bryce entrance & the free shuttle stops there. Or else go into the park and dry camp at the North campground. If you can hike definitely take a hike down into the canyon. It's like a fairy wonderland down there. Remember - you have to hike UP to get out.

From Bryce to Arches you could take Hwy 12 east & by this time you'll be used to 'hills' which you will encounter. However, if you don't want to do Hwy 12 from Bryce then you could backtrack to Hwy 89 again and head north to I-70. Take I-70 east to Exit 187 then south on 191 to Moab, Utah and Arches Nat'l Park. There are lots of campgrounds in Moab and Arches has a dry campground if you can get a site. From Moab you could also stay at Dead Horse Point State Park - a beauty. Have a full tank of water before going there and empty gray/black tanks. Some filling stations in Moab will let you fill with water or else some RV parks let you do it - usually for a fee.


From Moab if you want to go to Monument Valley just continue on a very good highway 191 to Bluff, Utah then pick up 163 to Monument Valley. Stay at Gouldings RV right there. It's easy to get to Cortez, Colorado from Monument Valley if you want to tour Mesa Verde National Park & other beautiful things in western Colorago, a favorite of ours. From Monument go back into Arizona a short distance and pick up Hwy 160 to Cortez. It's an easy drive.

Hope this helps. There are other ways to do these parks but I gave you the easiest routes. Try to keep your tanks empty if you want to do some dry camping & have water in your fresh tank.
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Old 05-13-2019, 02:06 PM   #4
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Cool

About Zion: I'm not sure the west side of the tunnel is any better than Moki Dugway but at least it's paved. OP: check it out on Google Earth.

The 1+ mile tunnel is one way for motorhomes, they'll stop incoming traffic and you'll drive down the middle of the tunnel whether eastbound or westbound.
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Old 05-13-2019, 02:12 PM   #5
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from mesa you can take AZ-87 north through payson and continue about 30 miles north until you reach lake mary road. turn left on it and it will take you to flagstaff right at the I-17 / I-40 junction. from there you can take the many routes mentioned in the above posts.

ANY route from the mesa area to the flagstaff area will involve some grades. you leave mesa at about 1,300 feet elevation and arrive at flagstaff at over 7,000 feet elevation. there will be both upgrades and downgrades.

if you take the the payson route payson is at about 5,000 feet. continuing north on as-87 you will go through pine and strawberry. and then you will hit an upgrade as the road climbs up onto of the mogollon rim. this is a grade and has one sharp curve but it is driven by every type of rv, truck, and semis.

what ever route you chose and where ever you decide to go you will be at or above 7,000 feet. plan on much cooler weather and the always present possibility of thunder showers. but totally enjoyable!
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Old 05-13-2019, 02:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CIDE View Post
Moki Dugway

good one think you just scared the bejesus out of the OP
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Old 05-13-2019, 04:24 PM   #7
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Talking

I tole him "Don't continue north on 261 after Goosenecks SP."
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Old 05-13-2019, 08:05 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by CIDE View Post
I tole him "Don't continue north on 261 after Goosenecks SP."
I've been on the moki dugway, same day I toured valley of the gods., wasn't in my MH but really not that bad of a road. all depends on who is coming the opposite direction, some freaked out drivers up there that wanted the whole road
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Old 05-13-2019, 08:52 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by twogypsies View Post
Don't let the above photo of Moki Dugway turn you off. That is nothing like you'll be driving in this whole area & it's not typically driven with a RV. That's a side trip with your vehicle.... unless you're 'CIDE'.


Your diesel is fully capable of doing mountains. After you do one you'll feel like a pro!! Uphill is no issue. Downhill - get into lower gear before you even start going down. Don't try it in the midst of a downhill. Many are four lanes so the first time or two just get in right lane and take it slow. You most likely will be behind the slow semi trucks. You need to learn to drive these roads because that's where the beauty is!! You'll be fine.

For your first stop out of Mesa I'd recommend first staying in Cottonwood, AZ at Dead Horse Ranch State Park and then taking the car to tour nearby Sedona. If you're a hiker there are some beautiful easy trails. This small town can get very congested that's why we always stay at Dead Horse Ranch.


Then Grand Canyon South Rim then on to Zion National Park, Bryce National Park and Arches National Park. They are all easy to get to with no major mountains.

Here are the easiest routes to tour the above but you'll still have some 'hills'. From Mesa take I-17 north (an uphill to the Prescott exit area then you'll have a downhill to Camp Verde/Cottonwood. This will probably be your biggest downhill on this whole trip. Downshift and stay in right lane. Use your brakes off and on. Don't stay on them. For Cottonwood take Exit 287 and head west on 260 to Dead Horse Ranch State Park. When leaving go back to I-17.

Continue north on I-17 and now you'll have an uphill climb to Flagstaff.

For Grand Canyon South Rim you can go two ways. The shortest is from I-17 at I-40 continue straight across I-40 onto 180. You'll be going thru town for a short distance but it will take you to Hwy 64 north and on to Grand Canyon. Try to get a site at Trailer Village in the park itself. The free shuttle stops right there. If you can't, there's a RV park in Tusayan just before the park entrance.

Another way to Grand Canyon from I-17 is at Flagstaff take I-40 west to Williams, AZ then 64 north. Some people stay in Williams but it's a long drive into Grand Canyon if you plan to do it more than once. You can also take the train from Williams and it's expensive and you only get a few hours in the park - not enough time. Try to stay in the park itself for the best experience.

When leaving Grand Canyon drive into the park (if not staying there already) and take 64 east which will take you to Hwy 89 at Cameron, AZ. Take 89 north into Page, AZ - stay a night or two. Antelope Canyon tours are here and also a tour of the dam. Wahweap campground in Glen Canyon Nat'l Recreation Area is very nice & there may be others. If you just want to spend a night or two dry camping continue on 89 just out of town and on the right will be Lone Rock recreation area on the lake. Turn right off 89 and just past the entrance station on the left is a nice large flat hard-packed gravel area to dry camp with beautiful views of the lake. There will be others there. Don't go below to park on the beach unless you really are confident of driving on sand. Some of it is very soft.

The easiest way to Zion National Park from Page is to continue on 89 to Kanab, UT then turn south on 89 a short distance back to Arizona at Fredonia. From Fredonia take 389 west which becomes Utah 59 taking you to Hurricane, UT at Hwy 9. To Zion go east on Hwy 9. There are RV parks in Hurricane, Virgin and Springdale - if you can't get a site in the park at Watchman campground (electric, dump & water fill). If staying in Springdale the Zion free shuttle makes stops in this small town taking you into the park. (If you look on the map around Page you'll see you have a choice to Fredonia by taking 89 into Page, and the above directions or taking 89A which would also take you to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon via 64 south. Taking 89 is the flattest. 89A you'll have a curvy long uphill but it's very doable with a RV & many do it.) If you do want to do the North Rim rather than the South Rim, take 64 south and there's a RV park in Jacob Lake (no lake, by the way) or else continue on the flat 64 south & just before the North Rim entrance in DeMotte national forest campground which is very nice. Or else continue driving on 64 south into the North Rim & try for their campground. The North Rim is very quiet compared to the South Rim and it's a lot cooler.

Next stop after Zion - Bryce Canyon National Park. To avoid a steep, curvy climb out of Zion & the tunnels, from Hwy 9 go west to I-15. Then take I-15 north to Circleville and Hwy 20. (Don't be tempted to take Hwy 14 at Cedar City - you won't like it!) Take Hwy 20 east to Hwy 89. Turn south on 89 toward Panguitch and shortly you'll turn left onto Hwy 12 taking you to Bryce. This is a flat drive. You'll have one tunnel to drive through & even tall buses fit so don't worry about it. Around the tunnel on the right you'll see Red Canyon national forest campground. This could be a option for staying for Bryce. I don't think they take reservations but it's worth a try. It's very pretty. Try first for the sites on the left as they're bigger. We like it. Ruby's RV is at the Bryce entrance & the free shuttle stops there. Or else go into the park and dry camp at the North campground. If you can hike definitely take a hike down into the canyon. It's like a fairy wonderland down there. Remember - you have to hike UP to get out.

From Bryce to Arches you could take Hwy 12 east & by this time you'll be used to 'hills' which you will encounter. However, if you don't want to do Hwy 12 from Bryce then you could backtrack to Hwy 89 again and head north to I-70. Take I-70 east to Exit 187 then south on 191 to Moab, Utah and Arches Nat'l Park. There are lots of campgrounds in Moab and Arches has a dry campground if you can get a site. From Moab you could also stay at Dead Horse Point State Park - a beauty. Have a full tank of water before going there and empty gray/black tanks. Some filling stations in Moab will let you fill with water or else some RV parks let you do it - usually for a fee.


From Moab if you want to go to Monument Valley just continue on a very good highway 191 to Bluff, Utah then pick up 163 to Monument Valley. Stay at Gouldings RV right there. It's easy to get to Cortez, Colorado from Monument Valley if you want to tour Mesa Verde National Park & other beautiful things in western Colorago, a favorite of ours. From Monument go back into Arizona a short distance and pick up Hwy 160 to Cortez. It's an easy drive.

Hope this helps. There are other ways to do these parks but I gave you the easiest routes. Try to keep your tanks empty if you want to do some dry camping & have water in your fresh tank.
Good write up.


------------

Lot's of good info - I always recommend North Rim also, as it's just really Good.

While in Utah also look up the State Parks, as they provide a lot of added value - https://stateparks.utah.gov/

Best of luck,
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Old 05-13-2019, 09:22 PM   #10
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I believe the road below the tunnel in Zion is closed due to a washout.


*edit* Oops, looks like it just reopened April 27.
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Old 05-13-2019, 09:47 PM   #11
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I've been on the moki dugway, same day I toured valley of the gods., wasn't in my MH but really not that bad of a road. all depends on who is coming the opposite direction, some freaked out drivers up there that wanted the whole road
On my first trip down it, I was one of those FODs.

A few years ago I wanted to ride Valley of the Gods on my way back from California, late February. It's the desert, what could possibly go wrong?

Ended up driving it instead.


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Old 05-14-2019, 05:10 AM   #12
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Nothing else to add to twogypsies post; excellent suggestions as always.

As noted, the Moki Dugway is NOT for RVs, and no need to even consider driving it in an RV.

Signs along the road as you head towards the Dugway. And there is more than one set of these along the way. Take the hint

And the Jeep GPS at the top, as we headed back down....
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Old 05-14-2019, 11:10 AM   #13
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what about fuel? not seeing alot of places per trip wizard
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Old 05-14-2019, 11:38 AM   #14
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Just an FYI on 163 in Monument Valley. I drove it last week and there is a dangerous "DIP" between Monument Valley and Kayenta. While the speed limit is 65 mph, if to see the "DIP" sign slow down to 20 mph or you will regret it.
Also there is a fairly new KOA in Monument Valley that is a good stop.
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