Advice on plumbing? (New owner)

[88Lance]

Hello everyone, just bought my first trailer, 37' Montana.
I have it set up on a property that we will be developing for the next 1.5 or 2 years. I have everything pretty well hooked up and ready to move in, but having never lived in an RV, I wanted to ask a few questions and get some advice on waste water.

While black tanks just get dumped when full, I heard it is best to leave gray tanks open?

What kinds of additives do you add to your tanks?

When using the toilet, how much extra water do you put in with each flush, or is the water you put in the bowl before use plenty sufficient?

I also noticed in RV parks that some people put their sewer hose in a straight line, while others make a "trap" but slumping a section of it.

Do you drain tanks before a freeze, or does the heat from inside the RV also keep the tanks from freezing? (I have the Arctic Insulation package, but no heaters)

These are probably really basic and dumb questions, just thought I would be a step ahead before moving in, instead of finding out what works the hard way.

Any other pointers would be appreciated as well.
Thanks!

[Old-Biscuit]

Waste tanks.....Black or Grey
Leave the dump valves closed until tanks are full/almost full then dump them
*Grey tank valve can be left open when using washing machine IF you have one
*Best to leave closed so you have volume/weight to flush crud out when you dump.....leaving valves open allows all liquids to trickle out leaving crud behind which can accumulate
Grey tanks can have grease/oils, food particles, hair/skin etc (those can STINK)

Some folks use additives........I never found them useful. But I always dump my tanks when full and the items in the drain systems worked
*'P' Traps, Air Admittance Valves, Toilet Bowl seal etc

When flushing toilet
Peeing......just flush it
Pooping........I fill bowl then flush

Dumping waste tanks
Dump valves closed.......no need to 'slump' the sewer hose
*Slump creates a 'P' trap (water seal) so sewer flies do not come into your RV Waste tanks


Freeze temps
If you are LIVING in the RV and using the Furnace the tanks should stay warm (above freezing)
*RV Furnace probably has a duct that blows warm air into the underbelly around the tanks
(You will need to confirm how your RV Model is set up)



We used the fresh water tank/pump exclusively vs connecting a hose
Refilled the fresh water tank as needed then drain/stow the potable water hose
*If you have a good water supply and are stationary I would use it and use a water regulator to maintain at least 50 psi

[twinboat]

Everybody does it their way and that's the best way.

Me, gray open, black when toilet burps, but I am never in freezing weather.

[88Lance]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Waste tanks.....Black or Grey
Leave the dump valves closed until tanks are full/almost full then dump them
*Grey tank valve can be left open when using washing machine IF you have one
*Best to leave closed so you have volume/weight to flush crud out when you dump.....leaving valves open allows all liquids to trickle out leaving crud behind which can accumulate
Grey tanks can have grease/oils, food particles, hair/skin etc (those can STINK)

Some folks use additives........I never found them useful. But I always dump my tanks when full and the items in the drain systems worked
*'P' Traps, Air Admittance Valves, Toilet Bowl seal etc

When flushing toilet
Peeing......just flush it
Pooping........I fill bowl then flush

Dumping waste tanks
Dump valves closed.......no need to 'slump' the sewer hose
*Slump creates a 'P' trap (water seal) so sewer flies do not come into your RV Waste tanks


Freeze temps
If you are LIVING in the RV and using the Furnace the tanks should stay warm (above freezing)
*RV Furnace probably has a duct that blows warm air into the underbelly around the tanks
(You will need to confirm how your RV Model is set up)



We used the fresh water tank/pump exclusively vs connecting a hose
Refilled the fresh water tank as needed then drain/stow the potable water hose
*If you have a good water supply and are stationary I would use it and use a water regulator to maintain at least 50 psi

Thanks for the information! I would check to see how the duct work looks around the tanks, but the whole thing is pretty well sealed up. I'll see if the manual mentions it.

I'm hooked up to a faucet with a regulator, but I have a hose that is wrapped and heated, so hopefully that will keep things running smoothly.

I noticed they ran a lot of the water lines near the furnace, but then up in the front storage compartment they ran several of them just exposed and attached to the outer wall (on the inside) right above the inside of the compartment door.

I'm wondering if I need to put heat cable on those, it seems hard to imagine that they wouldn't freeze. The furnace area is behind an insulated wall behind the cargo area, but the water lines come from there and just run out into the open cargo area.

[R.M.A]

The red/blue pipes going to the upstairs are probably going to the closet area in the bedroom for the washing machine hookup. (The Montana I had were.) I cut both lines as close to the basement wall as possible and put sharkbite valves on them, drained them and shut them off. I didn't have a W/D.

[High Road Travelers]

Old-Biscuit has some good advice. You should be good with your heated hose and regulator also.
Hope all works out well for you,

[88Lance]

Originally Posted by R.M.A

The red/blue pipes going to the upstairs are probably going to the closet area in the bedroom for the washing machine hookup. (The Montana I had were.) I cut both lines as close to the basement wall as possible and put sharkbite valves on them, drained them and shut them off. I didn't have a W/D.

It has hookups for washer and dryer in the closet, but no units in there. That's what they are for then, I'm sure 👍 I'll probably do the same and cap them off then. They just look unprotected and easy to freeze.
Thanks!

[hamm2018]

88Lance, while using the pressure regulator, protect it from freezing, like stated for this model:
https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/c...ator-stainless

[88Lance]

I ran the heat cable around it as well, and went down the faucet pipe. I noticed yesterday this has an outdoor shower, I didn't even realize that before. It's behind a cover, so maybe that is enough to keep it from freezing. I'm not sure what else I could do with it since it's recessed in the wall

[sbleiweiss]

Another leave the gray open fan, just because it is convenient. Closed is probably best, but haven't had a problem in 10 years and 90,000+ miles leaving it open. Everyone has their own risk tolerance. Same with connecting to hose bib or running off tank. Running off tank probably safest. Connected is more convenient. Be safe or have good insurance.

[jacwjames]

We seldom camp in cold weather but in Mar 2011 I accepted a new job and moved the UP of MI. I expected cold weather and I was right, had temps in the teens at night and 2' of snow in April



Best thing I did was get a couple remote temp monitors and put one in the back side of the wet bay. I had a small wet bay heater on the drivers side but wanted to know what temps I'd get on the other side. I also put a 120 volt cube heater in the basement and left the partition open so the last 3 bays all saw the heat and some of it migrated up into the floor void that ran from front to back. This benefited the whole coach & I confirmed the temps of the fresh/grey/black tanks.



So if you are concerned on temps get some remote temp monitors and put then where ever you have a concern.

[88Lance]

I only have one cargo area at the front behind the generator and propane bottles. But I may put a sensor there and see what it says, it may give a clue to what the rest of the underside is doing as far as temp goes ��.

I may also throw one behind the panel that hides the water heater and furnace, since thats what's probably more accurate compared to where the tanks are. Thanks for the idea!

[hamm2018]

Originally Posted by 88Lance

I ran the heat cable around it as well, and went down the faucet pipe. I noticed yesterday this has an outdoor shower, I didn't even realize that before. It's behind a cover, so maybe that is enough to keep it from freezing. I'm not sure what else I could do with it since it's recessed in the wall

You should be able to remove the hose assembly. Once done with that, pack the area with pink insulation and closed it.

[88Lance]

Originally Posted by hamm2018

You should be able to remove the hose assembly. Once done with that, pack the area with pink insulation and closed it.

Did a little bit of panel removing behind the TV today and found the water lines are actually right behind the TV panel, inside the RV in the cabinet. Since they are not in the exterior wall like I had assumed, they may be ok 👍 good idea with the insulation, I'll probably go ahead and stuff some back there anyway, just to have some behind that cabinet, since the water is there