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Old 09-24-2021, 10:39 PM   #29
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New shouldn't be too worn. Be aware that many RVs have travelled by road up to 4000km depending on your location and how many inter-dealer trades went on.

Some OEM nylon bushings have significant wear at 5000km.

Lippert Road armor would be an improvement over a cast iron equalizer, probably more apparent than an air ride pinbox.
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Old 09-24-2021, 10:42 PM   #30
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Do you know how the Road Armor compares to the Moryde CRE3000? That is what my fifth wheel came with.
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Old 09-24-2021, 10:52 PM   #31
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Some videos I watched on Youtube showed an apparent difference. The Road Armor is damped on both sides of the crossbar. The CRE3000, while a lot better than a solid equalizer, is damped on one side. There's a bit less movement (suspension travel) with the CRE3000 vs the Road Armor.

Since you already have some form of damped equalizer I'd spend time tweaking hitch height and angle, as well as suspension height of the trailer if adjustable. My Curt Q24 hitch was a bit stiff when brand new but wore in well.
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Old 09-24-2021, 10:53 PM   #32
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Some videos I watched on Youtube showed an apparent difference. The Road Armor is damped on both sides of the crossbar. The CRE3000, while a lot better than a solid equalizer, is damped on one side. There's a bit less movement (suspension travel) with the CRE3000 vs the Road Armor.

Since you already have some form of damped equalizer I'd spend time tweaking hitch height and angle, as well as suspension height of the trailer if adjustable. My Curt Q24 hitch was a bit stiff when brand new but wore in well.
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Old 09-27-2021, 06:25 AM   #33
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I also want to add that I'm not a fan of the fifth wheel hitch king pin locking mechanism. I've witnessed one person drop their RV onto their truck when they pulled forward with the trailer as they left their site. I'm sure it's more common than people want to admit.

The drop down mechanism of the gooseneck on the ball is a no-brainer in terms of safety. Even if you don't lock the hitch you have at least 2,000 pounds to overcome vertically to make the trailer decouple. In either case I still chain up.

Every semi on the road uses this kind of hitch. 99.9% of the time it is user error, not the hitch failing. The tug test as mentioned will make sure you are connected & ready to go.
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Old 09-27-2021, 09:18 AM   #34
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I also want to add that I'm not a fan of the fifth wheel hitch king pin locking mechanism. I've witnessed one person drop their RV onto their truck when they pulled forward with the trailer as they left their site. I'm sure it's more common than people want to admit.

The drop down mechanism of the gooseneck on the ball is a no-brainer in terms of safety. Even if you don't lock the hitch you have at least 2,000 pounds to overcome vertically to make the trailer decouple. In either case I still chain up.
B&W is the answer. Can't high hitch. The lever won't retract unless the pins in the jaws. BTDT for 6 years. Some brands allow user error more easily.

Agree on the gooseneck style. I accidently drove 70 miles with an Andersen 5th hitch uncoupled. I had an 'Oh chit' moment for quite a while after reaching the CG and unhitching. I did add chains when I used the Andersen.
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