Conversion to disc brakes.

[fvstringpicker]

Any recommendations on make, manufacturer, supplier, etc for 36 ft fifth wheel? Right now looking a Kodiak brakes system.

[2002guy]

Kodiaks are OK just stay away from the stainless steel products the stainless doesn't transfer heat well and will warp and crack more often.

[jdpm]

Contact Bill at

Stopyourtrailer.com

Very knowledgeable. At got everything to do a Kodiak conversion on my previous rig.
My current rig came from the factory with Dexter.
Which ever you go with get the Titan pump.

[450Donn]

There are two better known products, Titan and Kodiak. One of them, and I cant remember which use GM disc pads. So they are way cheaper than the other. In case you care.

[jdpm]

Kodiak uses GM pads. Dexter uses only Dexter pads.

[fvstringpicker]

Thanks for the info.

[grindstone01]

Originally Posted by fvstringpicker

Thanks for the info.

Just curious why the need for the brake upgrade? I have a newer GM truck w/exhaust brake and even out West, I rarely need to hit the brake pedal on any declines. Standard trailer brake drums should be adequate for most stops if inspected/adjusted yearly.

[Halwiseguy]

I changed to disc breaks 3 years ago on my 36.5 Hartland Landmark . Used the 13 " discs from Kodyack & Tyton actuator . Be sure that they send you the right bearings for the hubs. I spent 3 different days changing both inner & outer+ seal because they sent the wrong outer bearing that did not match the race. was not fun in the heat in july to august . After the third time I bought a matched set of bearings at Napa and noticed a difference in the bearing# and the race# . the bearing # they sent is 14125A which should have been 02474 to match with
02420 race All in all i'm happy with the change over . All E trailer did for me was send me the complete set of new bearings , seals and grease covers for my troubles . Good Luck with your project Hal

[wingnut60]

grindstone1,
No one needs the disc brake upgrade--until you have towed a trailer equipped with them...

[jdpm]

Originally Posted by grindstone01

Just curious why the need for the brake upgrade? I have a newer GM truck w/exhaust brake and even out West, I rarely need to hit the brake pedal on any declines. Standard trailer brake drums should be adequate for most stops if inspected/adjusted yearly.

Hum......

[IC2]

Best mod I ever made on 5er

I installed Kodiak. Single piston, GM metric design full floating, single piston cacalipers with pads available abywhere car parts are sold('90s mid size cars). Dexter is the other available major brand. Fixed 4 piston caliper, expensive pads available from Dexter

The plus for Dexter is that you can replace pads by pulling a big cotter pin without pulling the calipers -not a selling point to me. You need a 1/2" wrench and 5 minutes to pull the Kodiak calipers to replace pads.

My guess and only a guess is that Dexter has contracted a company like Wilwood to manufacture their calipers as they sure look like what I have on my street rod.

You have 3 major choices for actuator - Dexter, Titan and Hydrastar. I like the Hydrastar as it is all metal.

You have 3 choices for brake lines - (1) all metal with rubber lines between the moving and stationary parts. With a Kodiak full floating caliper, you also need a rubber link as well since the caliper has a moving link. (2) A Kodiak all rubber set of lines or (3) a hybrid of metal and rubber which I've opted to use.

When (IF) you decide to go with discs, add a few bucks and get the E-coating. I forgot to specify that coating and the rotors need a yearly spring rust removal.

[grindstone01]

Originally Posted by wingnut60

grindstone1,
No one needs the disc brake upgrade--until you have towed a trailer equipped with them...

Trailer drum brakes have been standard on trailers for 60+ years with success, if maintained properly. The few panic stops I have made rearranged the inside contents of the fifth wheel for us. I'm not sure I would want/need to stop any quicker than that with out causing major damage.
I used my son's commercial gooseneck trailer to pull hot shot loads, and comparing his hyd brakes to my gooseneck drum brakes, I was not impressed for the cost of the upgrade. My son had to replace the hyd pump and pads after 2 years, very $$. I ran my commercial trailer with drum brakes for 4 years with only needing adjustments.

[fvstringpicker]

Originally Posted by grindstone01

Just curious why the need for the brake upgrade?

They've just seemed to lack the juice to adequately stop the thing despite adjustment. They couldn't get close to locking the wheels on a dirt road. I'd guess 80-90% of stooping is on the truck.

[grindstone01]

Originally Posted by fvstringpicker

They've just seemed to lack the juice to adequately stop the thing despite adjustment. They couldn't get close to locking the wheels on a dirt road. I'd guess 80-90% of stooping is on the truck.

I would guess that something is wrong with the brakes then. It might be worth a stop at a trailer garage to have them checked out. What you describe is not normal for trailer brakes.
As a test, you should be able to pull out the emergency trailer brake plug and not be able to move the trailer, or at least all 4 trailer tires should slide if you got the power.