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Old 11-28-2019, 08:16 AM   #1
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Converter

If I have power to converter but no power to breaker panel does that mean converter is bad? 40 amp fuses on converter not blown. 65 amp converter wfco
Iím new to rving and I fear I messed up hooking up to bad power supply. I now have new 50 amp dedicated supply. But keeps draining battery
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Old 11-28-2019, 08:41 AM   #2
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A converter shouldn't drain the battery. The converter converts AC pored to 12vDC when you are plugged in. It handles the changeover from batteries to converted shore power and also charges the batteries when on shore power only.

If I worked on any wiring my first assumption would be that I had mistakenly put it back wrong. That would include wiring to batteries. I'd disconnect it from the batteries and try it on shore power only to see if it runs that way.

How old is the converter? If it is an older model and it turns out to be not working then you might be ready for an upgrade.

Please let us know if it works when disconnected from the batteries and we can go from there.
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Old 01-02-2020, 12:37 AM   #3
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The original post is confusing. There are 2 electrical systems in the rv. A 12 DC volt system and a 110 volt AC system. The 12 volt system powers the lights, pumps, furnace. if you have an rv fridge that uses 12 volt, LP GAS, or 110 AC, it will supply power to the fridge when set for 12 volts. The 110 system which is connected to the drop cord powers the 50 amp AC panel in the coach and powers all duplex outlets, water heater when set for 110AC, ac systems, and microwave, tvs music system etc. The converter is plugged into 110ac through the drop cord and panel to the converter outlet. The converter converts 110AC to 12 volts DC and charges the batteries that power all 12 volt systems.

If you have no 12 volts dc without drop cord connected, your batteries are dead or the connections between the batteries and the 12 volt fuse panel are disconnected. My first thought is the battery disconnect switch is switched to off if you have a battery disconnect switch. Do you own a digital volt ohm meter? If you donít, buy an inexpensive one off amazon and learn to use it. Inexpensive ones cost under 20 dollars and are ok for trouble shooting an RV electrical systems. 12 volts in almost all cases will not shock you. 110AC can and does kill. if you are unfamiliar with 110volts ac, I would not recommend any trouble shooting with power on except simple voltage tests. Think of electricity as water in a pipe. Volts equal pressure in the pipe. Amperage equal the volume of power. Just like water, you need a larger pipe to carry more volume. With electricity the more current you need the larger the wire.

Now that you have a VOM set it to volts DC and measure the battery voltage at the batteries with the drop cord disconnected. Anything below 12.6 volts needs charging. Now connect the drop cord and measure batteries again. If the battery voltage is the same as before, there is either no110 ac to the converter at the outlet or the converter isn't working. Disconnect the power plug from the converter and measure the Ac voltage there or plug a table light in the outlet, anything that works off 110 ac. If it works, something in the converter is dead or fuses are bad. If it doesn't work, check breakers in ac panel and try again.if still no, check all ac panel, and drop cord including the outlet the drop cord is plugged into.

Im not a fan of WFCO converters. They have, for me in the past, been problematic. I do like the progressive dynamics converter. They sport 4 different charge rates that work automaticly and really help prevent overcharging your batteries and prolong battery life. Paul R. Haller
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Old 01-02-2020, 04:25 AM   #4
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Yes, if 120 volts is going to the converter, 12 volts should be coming out to supply the fuse panel.

Its that simple, that should happen, even without a battery installed.

Not sure how you miss wired it, but hitting it with 240 volts will burn it out.
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Old 01-02-2020, 04:42 AM   #5
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Paul. R Haler has got it all correct except this.

The 12 volt system powers the lights, pumps, furnace. if you have an rv fridge that uses 12 volt, LP GAS, or 110 AC, it will supply power to the fridge when set for 12 volts.

It provides 12 volts to the fridge all the time for the control circuit unless you have a Residential fridge.
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Old 01-02-2020, 05:25 AM   #6
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Twinboat is right it's that simple. If you have 120v ac going into the converter and the fuses on the converter are good but you have no 12v dc coming out it's time to replace it. Since you will be replacing it anyway go with a three or four stage converter charger. It's much better for battery life and isn't that much more expensive.
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Old 01-03-2020, 11:40 AM   #7
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You don't mention the make or model of your RV which would be very helpful in the future. I just had a problem in which my batteries were dying and I had no 12 volt power in the trailer. The AC side worked normally. Check the voltage of your batteries with the meter at the batteries and note what it is. Access the converter and with the meter check the voltage of the two cables coming out of the converter. Do this with the trailer connected to shore power. It should be in the 13.5 to 13.8 voltage range. Remove shore power and check the voltage again. It should read the voltage of your batteries. If it's reading the battery voltage you were showing earlier at the battery you more than likely have a converter fault. If it reads zero volts, you have an open circuit between the converter and the batteries and the batteries aren't being charged. On my 2017 Bighorn there's a series of "short stop" circuit breakers on the back wall of the generator compartment behind the batteries. Short Stop is a brand name for Bussman fuses and you can replace it with something generic. It's a two post, self resetting breaker. They should have a red rubber cover protecting the posts. One side is wired to the batteries, the other to the converter. Take note of the voltage out of the converter on shore power that you measured earlier and the battery voltage at the battery. Start with the breaker nearest your batteries and work backwards to the others. Connect shore power and check the voltage on each post of the breaker. A bad breaker will show the voltage of the batteries on one side and a higher voltage from the converter on the other, IE: 12 volts and 13.8. Replace the breaker taking note of the AMP rating on the front of the breaker. I had to order one through Amazon, couldn't find one locally. If you don't find a bad breaker, check your disconnect switch if you have one.
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Old 01-03-2020, 12:02 PM   #8
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What is the pic of with the two screw posts and the red cover? Is that the Short Stop bussman breaker fuse?
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Old 01-03-2020, 10:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjackrash View Post
What is the pic of with the two screw posts and the red cover? Is that the Short Stop bussman breaker fuse?
Yes
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Old 01-05-2020, 09:07 AM   #10
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OP made one post 6 weeks ago and has not returned. He either figured it out or moved on to another forum I would guess.
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