Community Forums

stanleyz · 10-25-2020, 04:01 PM

I got tired of searching so I thought I would just try a new post. I have an older trailer and have been thinking I might convert to electric over hydraulic disc brakes. I would like to hear from anyone who has done it DIY or has had it done. If DIY where are the traps and if you had it done what did you get and what is a ball park price? Thanks in advance for any response.

BCooke · 10-25-2020, 05:08 PM

Been thinking about it...

2naEagle · 10-25-2020, 05:46 PM

Check out this place. https://performancetrailerbraking.com/

Garyp4951 · 10-25-2020, 06:18 PM

I did 6k Kodiak disc on mine, and bought everything from Eastern Marine for under $1500. You will probably need the 8k on yours, and its a 6 to 8 hour job for sure, but I just did the rotors, and calipers one day, and then the brake lines, and wiring the next.

Bob_C · 10-25-2020, 07:24 PM

Also got mine thru East Marine......thought the installation was really simple......

jdpm · 10-26-2020, 05:40 AM

We did ours or a 2011 Carriage Cameo. If your axles labels are still visible the numbers off the label will help a lot in determining the exact bearings, lug bolt patter and size that you will need. Overall, its pretty simple. We got our from Bill at https://stopyourtrailer.com/ You will love the improved braking performance.

**hamm2018** · 10-26-2020, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stanleyz

I got tired of searching so I thought I would just try a new post. I have an older trailer and have been thinking I might convert to electric over hydraulic disc brakes. I would like to hear from anyone who has done it DIY or has had it done. If DIY where are the traps and if you had it done what did you get and what is a ball park price? Thanks in advance for any response.

We had our Road Warrior converted to disc brakes during the 2019 National Rally in Goshen, Ind. Performance Trailer Braking did our brakes and it was around $4200 total. Now keep in mind we are a tri-axle toy hauler weighing in at around 20,000 lbs. It took them 8 hours to complete the job during the rally.
At this minute we are sitting in Goshen, Ind again schedule to go to Morryde on Tuesday to have Independent Suspension installed to replace the normal springs and axles. Again the cost is going to be around $6500 for the tri-axle for the Independent Suspension.
Morryde does both at the same time. When we scheduled we told them we already have the disc, and they did say our disc brakes can be used on their system, this saves us arounds $4500 for the install.

traveldawg · 10-26-2020, 04:07 PM

Call this guy..... he'll get you all set up and walk you through what you need. He is who helped me when I changed mine over.

Bill Halasyn
Regional Sales Manager
(813) 363-4685
www.stopyourtrailer.com

rarebear.nm · 10-26-2020, 04:30 PM

I did the conversion about 6 years on our 32 ft 5th at the same time I upgraded the axles. I did the entire job in our driveway. Bought every thing from Dexter Axle Supply. They were very helpful.

If you're just doing just a disk brake upgrade it would be very simple. Some pointers:

1) Watch several videos and practice making double flares for the brake line. You may need a double flaring kit.

2) Plan your brake line path in advance.

3) Plan on a good place to mount the pump.

4) Buy extra brake fluid for bleeding the brakes. If you find a leak and need to open the line, you should start over in the bleeding process.

5) If you have not bleed brakes before, watch a few videos. I made a remote control switch to operate the pump by myself while at each wheel position. Used a female trailer connector (truck end) and attached the wires to that, using the trailer's battery for a hot (brake lead). Very simple.

6) Make sure you have quality safety stands to support the trailer. You could do one side at a time. I had to have the entire trailer off the ground for the spring/axle upgrade.

Edd505 · 10-26-2020, 10:35 PM

I did mine earlier this year on my 35ft 5W. Got the kit here: https://performancetrailerbraking.com/
Everything you need is in the kit except brake fluid & grease. Pre made lines, clamps for running the lines etc. $2000 for the kit shipped to your house. I had a couple questions during install and called their number, got instant answers. They have installers that charge $1000. I did mine in two days but am pretty sure I could do one again in one long day, 8-10 hrs. I have 7K Dexter axles and was able to upgrade to 8K for $64. You get larger outer bearing & 9/16 studs vs 1/2"

here is a write up I did on another RV site, pictures near the end: https://kzfamilyforum.com/thread/3126/disc-brakes

Get a good tubing bender, you will need to bend them to fit. PM if you have questions.

IC2 · 10-28-2020, 04:52 AM

I did ours in the driveway 4 years ago. Regardless of suspension capacity, the job i pretty easy if you have a decent,minimal set of SAE tools.

The hardest part that I found was making up hard steel brake lines that I could flare and not leak. I had a line failure just before a long scheduled and planned trip and installed a set of Kodiak rubber lines. Super simple to install these but I do have some reservations (personal) on them so will be redoing them in the spring, again with hard lines.

You do need to either order a 'kit' from a supplier or spend some time doing research on methodology, parts needed and parts pricing.

The single most expensive item is the actuator. I have a Carlisle Hydrastar which until the last trip, worked great. Now it's suspect in pressure output. Rotors and calipers are Kodiak which is now owned by Dexter Axle and in turn, is owned by Lippert (LCI).

Great RV upgrade and well worth the 1500-2000 dollar cost

Edd505 · 10-29-2020, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IC2

The hardest part that I found was making up hard steel brake lines that I could flare and not leak. I had a line failure just before a long scheduled and planned trip and installed a set of Kodiak rubber lines. Super simple to install these but I do have some reservations (personal) on them so will be redoing them in the spring, again with hard lines.

The single most expensive item is the actuator. I have a Carlisle Hydrastar which until the last trip, worked great. Now it's suspect in pressure output. Rotors and calipers are Kodiak which is now owned by Dexter Axle and in turn, is owned by Lippert (LCI).

Great RV upgrade and well worth the 1500-2000 dollar cost

I was also worried about doing double flares for brake lines. The Performance Braking kit comes with premade lines. Some were a bit too long that's why I suggested a good tubing bender, couple short bends and the entire tube is shorter.

stanleyz · 10-30-2020, 07:27 AM

I want to thank all y'all (thats southern for everyone) for the responses. I now know a lot more. My only remaining question is where did you put your actuator? I'm thinking it goes back by the axles with a long wire run and a short brake line run but would like to know what y'all did. I'm just finishing up repairing my electric drum brakes for about the fifth time. I'm ok with how the electric drums work, when they work but I have way too much money and time in them. So I'm gonna hold on to this thread and the next failure I'll change them over. Thank you again.

SailorSam · 10-30-2020, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2naEagle

Check out this place. https://performancetrailerbraking.com/

I also used these folks. Very nice to deal with. I had them do the work. Their tech met me at a state park while I was heading west. Took the tech about 6 hours non-stop. In retrospect, I could probably have done it myself but was more comfortable having a pro do the work.

Pump is mounted underneath my trailer on the frame. It's well protected from the weather. I've seen other folks mount it behind their propane tanks.
Trailer stops a LOT better with the disc brakes.