Disc brake failure!

[Bob_C]

Hopefully they installed the bolts with the nut end facing toward the trailers other side.....using a box wrench, and a flashlight, one might try to tighten 'em up and be able to see at the same time if the bolt was also turning.....before pull'n a wheel..

[dskyward]

Originally Posted by mobilemike

You might want to pull another wheel and check those caliper mounting bolts also.

Thanks Mike, my mind is thinking same on this one. What about the other 3? I’m not so sure I can use the old saying, if it isn’t broke don’t fix, on this one. I’ll ask the mech to inspect them which means pulling the rotors and most likely once you remove studs for inspection, just replace with new grade 5 or 8 studs. I’ve seen scary YT video where this one fellow had failures on both when tightening to 50 lb ft torque. Stripped and snapped respectively. The Kodiak rep says my event was indeed a rare one.

[dskyward]

Originally Posted by bob caldwell

Hopefully they installed the bolts with the nut end facing toward the trailers other side.....using a box wrench, and a flashlight, one might try to tighten 'em up and be able to see at the same time if the bolt was also turning.....before pull'n a wheel..

Oh you can do that without removing the rotor? I didn’t think there be enough room between the two. Good idea. Thanks Bob!

[dskyward]

I’ll know some more once we get in to see if there be any evidence on what exactly happened. Did they all snap at once or did one loosen up, then another...etc. I’ll have them check for any obvious ovalling scars in both matching mounting holes.

[dskyward]

Originally Posted by bob caldwell

Western Marine also carries these brakes....if needed, you could undue that wheels steel line from the brass block and plug it off....at least you'd have 3 wheel brakes

That’s interesting to know, but would really be a time consuming fill, bleed, drive, bleed, drive, bleed. The whole reservoir at the rest area was empty, I had no plug, fluid. Plus I’ve never done brakes by myself before. I’ve always had big brothers, and their sons to help me out. I paid em well of course. Lol.

[Bob_C]

NO....you can't access both the head of the bolt and the nut end at the same time with rotor in place....you're just seeing if other 3 bracket mounting bolts are tight...if both the nut and the bolt turn, then pull'n the rotor will be required

[dskyward]

Oh, you mean just the ones that are accessible? That makes sense.

[Bob_C]

To bleed these brakes, fill the reservoir, pull the plunger out on the breakaway switch, then one at a time open the bleeder alittle till fluid appears ( I use a water bottle and a piece of vacuum hose slipped onto the bleeder valve with some brake fluid in the bottle to cover the hose end up).....and keep check'n the reservoir

[dskyward]

Thanks! I appreciate everyone’s replies here. I love the knowledge that one finds here.

[dskyward]

Originally Posted by bob caldwell

To bleed these brakes, fill the reservoir, pull the plunger out on the breakaway switch, then one at a time open the bleeder alittle till fluid appears ( I use a water bottle and a piece of vacuum hose slipped onto the bleeder valve with some brake fluid in the bottle to cover the hose end up).....and keep check'n the reservoir

I’ve always been the one pressing the brake pedal during this procedure in the past. I’ve watched it done on old cars in my youth. But I’ve never sat down and performed it at the other end. I will imagine it will happen one of these days.

[Bob_C]

These brakes made bleeding really easy....using the bottle method, all one needs to do is watch for the air bubbles to disappear, then close the bleeder

[glennwest]

I upgraded to kodiak Disc on my Teton. I reused my bolts. They were grade 5, fine thread, 1/2" and locking nuts. Mine were plenty long. Mine are 8k hubs too.

[IC2]

It sounds as though those bracket fasteners weren't torqued when installed. I've just used the existing bolts as well but on my list is to replace them with some ARP bolts and nuts. As a note, some kit assemblers do supply replacement fasteners.

Something else that makes bleeding those brakes an easy, one man job job are Russell Speed Bleeders Introduction - Speed Bleeders - Russell Performance Products.

Also - do one caliper at a time as the fluid reservoir on actuators, I've found, is pretty small and it doesn't take much to empty. JIC, have 2 quart cans of brake fluid on hand. One is more then enough - that is until you empty the reservoir and have to start all over.

[dskyward]

Originally Posted by IC2

It sounds as though those bracket fasteners weren't torqued when installed.

Being 5, I can only wonder how they lasted 25k miles in that condition?

Originally Posted by IC2

I've just used the existing bolts as well but on my list is to replace them with some ARP bolts and nuts. As a note, some kit assemblers do supply replacement fasteners.

I’ve heard that too, but ETrailer’s orig invoice pt# pic didn’t show any. If they did, I wonder if they’d own up and be liable? Probably not as there’s no proof to say the installer mistorqued them. In conversion upgrades such as these, what’s really to say how to do it right and suffer this event...who steps forward to cover the repair? Installers only give a 90 day warranty on labor, so the weakest link is either defective stud or installer error(wrong value torque, bad torque wrench)? Word of advice, next time I’d lean to having one place do all the legwork. But I footed the parts, didn’t know all weren’t present and then some wiring didn’t meet up.

Originally Posted by IC2

Something else that makes bleeding those brakes an easy, one man job job are Russell Speed Bleeders Introduction - Speed Bleeders - Russell Performance Products.

Ha...my middle name happens to be Russell!

Originally Posted by IC2

Also - do one caliper at a time as the fluid reservoir on actuators, I've found, is pretty small and it doesn't take much to empty. JIC, have 2 quart cans of brake fluid on hand. One is more then enough - that is until you empty the reservoir and have to start all over.