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04-26-2018, 06:44 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Where ever I park it
Posts: 1,345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob caldwell
What would you do if while hitch'n back up if the pin wasn't at the correct height?.....Be push'n the trailer .....same with un-hitch'n...it's your tailgate...
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Um, wouldn't you stop and adjust the height of the pin?
__________________
2005 Dodge Ram Four Door Dually Southern Comfort Conversion
2017 Forest River 365RK
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04-26-2018, 07:06 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Vancouver Wash
Posts: 7,227
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Ever heard of high hitch'n?
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04-26-2018, 08:02 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Where ever I park it
Posts: 1,345
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Yes, I have, but if you back up to the pin and adjust accordingly that is a tough thing to do. You need to do more than just ram the pin and hope for the best.
__________________
2005 Dodge Ram Four Door Dually Southern Comfort Conversion
2017 Forest River 365RK
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04-26-2018, 08:31 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 1,020
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Do I really need wheel chocks?
Chocks are cheap, easy insurance. Good lord, they're $15 a pair and only take the time to walk around your rig to deploy-- use 'em.
__________________
2018 ORV Timber Ridge 24rks
2017 F350 6.7 CC DRW
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04-27-2018, 01:48 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Currently; SW Cali. Sunny & warm!
Posts: 1,323
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Basic safety. Think of it as getting out of your truck in neutral, no parking brake set.
Might work well most of the time in ideal level parking lots.... Your trailer has no parking brake. Believe us, those smooth steel pads on the landing gear will slide on many surfaces. Parked leveling and stability are totally separate issues.
The stoutest models at Harbor Freight are cost effective.
Wheel chocks, should be the first thing down, last thing up.
__________________
J & J, DRV Suites ES-38RSSA #9679 GM Denali, 3500HD-Max, 4x CC, 8' DRW,
EZGo-TXT, Clubcar Precedent
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04-27-2018, 03:37 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Thor Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,790
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In the class A side of RVing, since we normally don't carry wheel chocks, the basic rule regarding the use of jacks/levelers is always keep a rear wheel in firm contact with the ground for parking brake action. Very rare to find a coach with jacks that can't get all wheels hanging in the air at the same time.
Should the rig slip with the jacks down you'll probably bend a jack. Once bent they don't retract. To get the rig back on the road will require removing the problem cylinder from the chassis frame. Not a simple task when there's a couple of tons of coach weight on the problem jack. Repairs usually require replacement at a couple $$$ per cylinder so the incentive to conform is pretty compelling.
As MtnTrek posted - "Wheel chocks, should be the first thing down, last thing up."
__________________
2006 Hurricane 31D built on a 2006 Ford F53
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04-27-2018, 05:22 AM
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#21
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Community Moderator
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Central, Arkansas
Posts: 11,223
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I think you just mis understood. You must have "Wheel" chocks to keep the trailer from moving when unhooking and hooking the hitch. You can bend the leveling jacks without them or worse watch your camper slide down the hill. X chocks are not for holding the rv in place they are strictly for stabilizing movement in the rv after leveling. Some people will say they use them for wheel chocks and they may work for that but it isn't what they are designed for. Wheel chocks are required X chocks are your choice. My 5'er doesn't need the X-chocks.
__________________
2004 Beaver Monterey Laguna IV
Cummins ISC 350HP Allison 3000 6 speed
2020 Chevy Equinox Premier 2.0t 9 speed AWD
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04-27-2018, 06:39 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egwilly
Not clear on what you are asking....wheel chocks or x-chocks, or both?
I use both, X-chocks take some movement out of the front-to-back motion.
Wheel chocks for no unintended travel once disconnected. Always.
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Either X-chocks, wheels chocks or both. I have neither right now and it seems OK.
Thanks.
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04-27-2018, 06:41 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glennwest
Well, you unhook to level. What if on incline. Might roll away.
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That's a fair point but I'm also told that the ground can't be too uneven to begin with. Not sure how many campsites are so unlevel I'd be concerned with my RV rolling away.
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04-27-2018, 06:43 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpierrie
ALWAYS use wheel chocks. Put wheel chocks in place BEFORE you unhitch and leave them in place until you re-hitch. Every time, no matter how level. Period end of discussion.
Regarding X-Chocks; this is optional; some folks find they help prevent movement. I have them, they helped quite a bit on my travel trailer. My fiver with six point leveling is pretty stable without them. As others have said, I will put them on if I am staying a week or more. Honestly, if I didn't already have them from my TT days, I wouldn't get them now.
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Thanks for the detailed response. I'll get the basic wheel chocks and not bother with the x-chocks.
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04-27-2018, 06:47 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manwithnorv
To me it's kind of like asking if you need a helmet when riding a motorcycle, do you need a life jacket while you're water skiing. I know some people don't. It's about risk and reducing chances for bad outcomes. Why wouldn't you?
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Well, because the RV dealer said I didn't need them. That didn't sound right so I'm asking the experts. I don't see how the motorcycle helmet analogy works here as I do ride a motorcycle but either way, I've learned something and that was my goal. There are basic wheel chocks and x-chocks. If you have a 4 or 6 point auto-leveling system, it sounds like the x-chocks aren't required, as my RV dealer said but I DO need the regular wheel chocks to prevent the RV from moving around.
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04-27-2018, 06:48 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnTrek
Basic safety. Think of it as getting out of your truck in neutral, no parking brake set.
Might work well most of the time in ideal level parking lots.... Your trailer has no parking brake. Believe us, those smooth steel pads on the landing gear will slide on many surfaces. Parked leveling and stability are totally separate issues.
The stoutest models at Harbor Freight are cost effective.
Wheel chocks, should be the first thing down, last thing up.
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Thank you very much.
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04-27-2018, 06:50 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetbriar
As MtnTrek posted - "Wheel chocks, should be the first thing down, last thing up."
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Bingo. That's my new rule. Thanks everyone.
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04-27-2018, 10:44 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnTrek
Basic safety. Think of it as getting out of your truck in neutral, no parking brake set.
Might work well most of the time in ideal level parking lots.... Your trailer has no parking brake. Believe us, those smooth steel pads on the landing gear will slide on many surfaces. Parked leveling and stability are totally separate issues.
The stoutest models at Harbor Freight are cost effective.
Wheel chocks, should be the first thing down, last thing up.
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Well this is true for most units but mine does have a parking brake. I have air over hydraulic disc. When I break the air connection, the brakes engage. I have to bleed system down to release them. Simple pet cock.
__________________
2003 Teton Grand Freedom. 2006 Freightliner Century 120 with Detroit 14L and Ultrashift.2016 Smartcar carry on deck. Full time going from job to job. Building and maintaining plants across the USA. Sold 2006 Mobile Suites 32TK3
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