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Old 01-07-2020, 09:54 AM   #15
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I hand pack as all of the above have answered but I actually will add 5 or 6 pumps & then call it done. Then after every 1,000 miles or so I will add in 2 or 3 more pumps. Has worked well for me over the years. But yeah... you don't want to keep pumping until grease spews out. As far as Lucas Red... I didn't like how it performed. Seemed like the drop point wasn't as high as they claim. I started using their HD Green & feel it has done much better.
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Old 01-07-2020, 09:59 AM   #16
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It still amazes me that Dexter/Lippert still supply E-Z Lube axles since their bearing instructions say to disassemble, clean and inspect every 12,000 miles or 12 months. Then trere are the over zealous folks that just keep on pumping and 'blow out' that seal which is very light duty with virtually no supporting lands. The grease that flows out of that seal will then via centrifugal force contaminate the brakes, drums and magnets.

Then there is that wasted grease at 6-15 bucks a tube, depending on brand name. And it takes about a tube and 200+/- strokes on a hand grease gun to fill that cavity. Do NOT use a power gun. And that grease - it often partially liquefies over 100F regardless of brand and reported drop temp, making it even easier to bypass that puny seal design. Y yes, I did a glob test by leaving 3 different brands on a piece of wood, sunny day and about 65F ambient. All three Dexter approved brands drooled.

As far as pushing out the old grease - yep, sure does. The outer bearing makes a mess at the nut while that old, possibly contaminated grease from the inner bearing goes into that hub cavity, eventually contminating the outer bearing.

Now, with that said, do I use those Zerks - not a chance. Our 5er has disc brakes so it's bit more to clean and lube the bearings, but they are done every year and by my greasy hand.

Use those Zerks ant your own peril. They work but at a possible high cost
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Old 01-07-2020, 02:09 PM   #17
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I used the EZ Lube feature every year I had my old Komfort. Jack up that corner, spin the wheel and wait until I could hear a slight popping noise, stop pumping grease. Never blew grease out the seals, never had a brake problem. When I had the bearings replaced after 10 years, mechanic said they all looked to be in excellent condition and I could easily have just done a re-pack, replace the seals and good to go. I replaced them all with US-made Timkens. (shrug)

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Old 01-07-2020, 04:40 PM   #18
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One thing is to make sure the seal has the correct inner diameter. Slip the seal only over the machined surface of the spindle. You need a nice snug feel. 7k axles have two different ID seals. When installing the seal into the hub , put a little grease in the open cavity to prevent the spring from popping out of place.
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Because of your post, the first thing I did this morning was to try and slip the grease seal over the shaft. It wasnít snug and I could see a visible gap. I returned the two I didnít use and now have what appear to be the right ones. They are a snug fit as they slip on the shaft. Itís frustrating because I now have to redo the one wheel I thought I had completed but I'd much rather do that now than have a failure on the road. Thank you so much for the advice.
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Old 01-07-2020, 05:22 PM   #19
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Because of your post, the first thing I did this morning was to try and slip the grease seal over the shaft. It wasnít snug and I could see a visible gap. I returned the two I didnít use and now have what appear to be the right ones. They are a snug fit as they slip on the shaft. Itís frustrating because I now have to redo the one wheel I thought I had completed but I'd much rather do that now than have a failure on the road. Thank you so much for the advice.
Glad you found the problem with the grease bypassing. Ive actually seen tandem trailers with two different axles / seal diameter. Now I go ahead & measure them. It helps for next time if you make notes on part #s.
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Old 01-07-2020, 06:03 PM   #20
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I have EZ Lube on all three axles. I've never pumped grease into the bearings in six years since new because I don't believe in EZ Lube. I hand repacked my bearings almost 4 years ago. I'm a firm believer in hand packing and doing the job correctly. I might repack this year, then again maybe not.
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Old 01-07-2020, 06:13 PM   #21
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As several have said, remove, clean, inspect, repack and go. In 30 years of auto and truck services, I've always been warned about adding grease into the wheel cavity where there is no need for it and where it can cause overall overheating. Dab a little grease on the spindle and the inside of the wheel to prevent rust and you should be good to go.
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Old 01-07-2020, 06:42 PM   #22
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This a great reminder to always check your seals on the spindle, and don't just trust the parts guy to give you right one.
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Old 01-07-2020, 07:54 PM   #23
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For the life of me I do not understand the filling of the hub gap with tons of grease. What a waste of grease!

These are not boat trailer axles that get submerged in water when launching. In those cases you need positive pressure inside the hub to keep water away.

Like several here, I just remove, clean or replace, and repack the bearings the legacy way....large lump of grease in the my palm and squish the bearings into it. I've packed wheel bearings this way since I was 16.....never a failure of a bearing or race. My dad was a mechanic and I still do these things the way he showed me when I was young. Would a bearing packer work better? Maybe, but I don't use one.

I check the races and bearings for wear and hot spots and throw them out if so.

Do it any way you want. Feels good to know you did it right.
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Old 01-11-2020, 10:10 AM   #24
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As mentioned above, no need for grease in the cavity at all. The factory supplies these with no grease in the cavity because the grease holds the heat in making the bearings run hotter. Also, besides risking grease blowing past the seal and fouling your brakes you are pushing old grease from the rear bearing INTO the front bearing, as well as using most of a tube of grease per wheel. Bottom line, it is unnecessary AND potentially harmful. They should discontinue these but trailer manufacturers like the "easy maintenance" sales pitch.

Trailer bearings should be repacked soon after delivery and then are good for 2 or 3 years or 20,000 miles under normal conditions but it is so simple to repack them that it can easily be done every year, especially with the new bearing packers.
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Old 01-11-2020, 06:15 PM   #25
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As mentioned above, no need for grease in the cavity at all. The factory supplies these with no grease in the cavity because the grease holds the heat in making the bearings run hotter. Also, besides risking grease blowing past the seal and fouling your brakes you are pushing old grease from the rear bearing INTO the front bearing, as well as using most of a tube of grease per wheel. Bottom line, it is unnecessary AND potentially harmful. They should discontinue these but trailer manufacturers like the "easy maintenance" sales pitch.

Trailer bearings should be repacked soon after delivery and then are good for 2 or 3 years or 20,000 miles under normal conditions but it is so simple to repack them that it can easily be done every year, especially with the new bearing packers.


Ok Guys !
My Race Trailer- same Dexter Axles as you .
2 - 6000 lb Torflex Axles with Ez lube Bearings .
I Jack the Trailer up - Spin the Wheel and use a 18 volt Grease Gun - it pumps rather Slow until I see Grease move and stop.
Every 2 yrs I pull the wheels - clean out and check Brakes and install new seals - works for me ! By the way - There is 250,000 miles Plus on My Enclosed Trailer
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Old 01-11-2020, 06:52 PM   #26
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Ok Guys !
My Race Trailer- same Dexter Axles as you .
2 - 6000 lb Torflex Axles with Ez lube Bearings .
I Jack the Trailer up - Spin the Wheel and use a 18 volt Grease Gun - it pumps rather Slow until I see Grease move and stop.
Every 2 yrs I pull the wheels - clean out and check Brakes and install new seals - works for me ! By the way - There is 250,000 miles Plus on My Enclosed Trailer

So every 2 years you clean out the hubs that are full of grease and end up throwing away a pail of grease? For the cost of grease, it might be cheaper to just replace the hand packed bearings every 2 years which would still be overkill.
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Old 01-12-2020, 09:37 AM   #27
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I appreciate everyoneís help with this. Although this caused me extreme frustration, taking many more hours than it should, I got a good education. I will feel confident doing it in the future.
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