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Old 01-06-2020, 07:16 PM   #1
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E-Z Lube Axle Repacking Problem

I am making my first attempt at repacking my Dexter E-Z Lube bearings in my 2013 Arctic Fox 29-5T.

I first tried to take it apart, clean and repack using new grease seals. All went well until the last step which one YouTube video recommended using the grease fitting to inject grease until some comes out the front. I am assuming this is fill the cavity that is in the hub. Well, I kept pumping and none came out. So I removed everything and saw much of the grease went past the new grease seal and started filling the brake area.

I started over. Cleaned everything, again replaced the grease seal, and tried again with the same results. On try number 3 I just greased up the shaft the bearings ride on and didnít try injecting more grease. My question is this - How full of grease does that gap that is in the E-Z lube need to be?

I did use Lucas Oil Red-n-Tacky which I now see isnít on the approved list. I am also doing this in Minnesota with 20 degree temps before heading South. Thanks for any help.
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Old 01-06-2020, 07:29 PM   #2
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My experience is that You need to Spin the Wheel the same time as applying the Grease .
It is Way to Cold up there to do this !
You may need to heat the wheel and the Grease up first.
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Old 01-06-2020, 07:40 PM   #3
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One very important part of using these ezlube hubs is use the right approved grease that is warm enough AND you MUST spin the hub as you pump grease in. The grease all comes out in one spot near the rear grease seal. If you don't spin the hub and move the grease around inside the hub it's going to force past the seal. If the grease is too thick because its too cold it won't flow/move away from the port in the axle.

I have done the process on two trailers without grease seal issues. Both times it was in the summer ambient temp was over 70*F. Cold grease don't flow well.
Don't care what brand or how tacky it is.
That's my 1/2 cent of experience
YMMV
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Old 01-06-2020, 07:42 PM   #4
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I don't think it needs to have any grease in the gap. I just pack the bearings like any other axle and call it good, I never use the ez lube feature.
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Old 01-06-2020, 07:59 PM   #5
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I did spin the wheel as I added grease, but It sounds like doing it in these temps could be the problem.
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Old 01-06-2020, 08:21 PM   #6
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That would be my guess. Too dang cold! Think about how thick 30 grade straight oil gets at 0*F. Old engines did not spin fast because of the thick lubricants when cold.

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Old 01-06-2020, 08:30 PM   #7
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Are you installing the seals in the correct direction ?
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Old 01-06-2020, 08:40 PM   #8
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Are you installing the seals in the correct direction ?
I believe so. Open side toward the bearing?
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Old 01-06-2020, 08:56 PM   #9
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Just hand pack the bearings and put it together and head south . Whenever you go to all the work of taking them off then just hand pack them . You can buy a good bearing packer at the auto parts store . Makes it faster and easier . Forget the zert
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Old 01-06-2020, 09:05 PM   #10
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Just hand pack the bearings and put it together and head south . Whenever you go to all the work of taking them off then just hand pack them . You can buy a good bearing packer at the auto parts store . Makes it faster and easier . Forget the zert

That's what I do, just pack the bearings by hand and redo every 10-15k miles. This gives you a chance to inspect everything. Just ignore the zerk!
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Old 01-06-2020, 09:53 PM   #11
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One thing is to make sure the seal has the correct inner diameter. Slip the seal only over the machined surface of the spindle. You need a nice snug feel. 7k axles have two different ID seals. When installing the seal into the hub , put a little grease in the open cavity to prevent the spring from popping out of place.
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Old 01-07-2020, 06:27 AM   #12
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That's what I do, just pack the bearings by hand and redo every 10-15k miles. This gives you a chance to inspect everything. Just ignore the zerk!
Ignore the zerk? I put 50K on my last trailer just using the zerk. Two or three pumps with the gun, clean the dirty grease that backs out, and done. Some say this isn't adequate but I know from experience that it is.
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Old 01-07-2020, 07:29 AM   #13
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Just hand pack the bearings and put it together and head south . Whenever you go to all the work of taking them off then just hand pack them . You can buy a good bearing packer at the auto parts store . Makes it faster and easier . Forget the zert
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That's what I do, just pack the bearings by hand and redo every 10-15k miles. This gives you a chance to inspect everything. Just ignore the zerk!
Yep, no reason to keep pumping in grease.
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Old 01-07-2020, 07:34 AM   #14
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Ignore the zerk? I put 50K on my last trailer just using the zerk. Two or three pumps with the gun, clean the dirty grease that backs out, and done. Some say this isn't adequate but I know from experience that it is.

Are you confident all the dirty grease gets backed out (sounds like a blown seal)? How do you inspect your brakes/bearings? I inspect my brakes every 10-15k miles and most of the time I will find 1 brake in need of repair, like a broken/missing spring or broken magnet wire.
It sounds like you have been lucky so far, but I try to keep my risk level exposure low for on the road problems.
Most axle manufactures suggest a brake/bearing inspection on a reg interval, yearly or 10k. That is the best time to clean out the old grease and inspect the working parts. The EZ lube system was designed for boat trailers that should be greased after boat launching and bearing water exposure.
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