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baranski37 · 02-13-2020, 09:17 PM

Hi all, I have 2019 KZ Durango Gold 380FLF purchased 8/2018. It has a 12 gallon Suburban LP and Electric hot water tank. I recently flushed with vinegar and replaced anode rod. While doing that I discovered that electric was not working. I purchased a new element and installed still doesn’t work. I confirmed voltage at breaker. There is a switch on water heater and it is switched to on but looks like it is about to pop out of metal panel. I’m unsure if this switch affects LP or electric. The panel inside trailer has switches for electric and LP this is switched on. There is no 120v at actual electric element.
Thanks Ron

bigchick · 02-14-2020, 06:30 AM

you could try resetting the hi temperature limit switches. if this does not work you'll have to test for power along the power path:
junction box are rear of heater
the black on/off switch on the face of the heater
hi temperature limit switch
connections to heater element

i'm assuming the actual heater element is not burnt out. but you said no power to the element. this says the problem is not the element itself.

charliez · 02-14-2020, 07:22 AM

The switch is most likely for the electric. My elec/gas had a small black rocker switch. There's not much to it. You might can (turn the power off and verify it's off first) jumper it form the back side for a test. Also, if you applied electric without the tank being purged of air you burned out the element. A new one will burn instantly too so there's that.

I used my rocker switch as a thing only I knew about so I could prevent someone else from turning on the power to it and roasting it.

Ljwt330 · 02-14-2020, 08:53 AM

As stated in the above posts, you will need to back track to locate the fault. What you have confirmed is there is 110 vac at the breaker, you have a brand new element, but there is no voltage at the element. It is a Suburban heater so the rocker switch on the heater is for electric heat.

Here's a suggested trouble shooting guide, given your knowns, above. (Use caution and turn OFF the breaker before you prepare for testing.)

1) Pull the ON/OFF switch out of the panel on the heater. Use your meter and test for voltage into and out of the switch terminals when it is in the ON position. If there is power both IN and OUT of the switch, the circuit is good to that point. If there is not power OUT, the switch is bad. If there is not power IN, then move inside and repeat the test on the interior electric switch.

2) If the circuit tests "good" at the switch, move to the thermostat/ECO, located behind the black cover labeled " Push to Reset."

The Suburban has two thermostat/ECOs, one for 110 vac, and one for 12v gas. The 110 vac is on the left and has thicker black wires. Test for voltage between both terminals and ground. If there is no voltage from one terminal and ground, push the reset and test again. If still no voltage, replace the thermostat/ECO.

If your tests show voltage from the thermostat/ECO, then you should have voltage at the element.

As mentioned, be sure there is water in the heater before trying the element. If you have voltage to the element but no hot water, you likely fried the new element.

baranski37 · 02-14-2020, 06:44 PM

Thanks all I will be able to check further in the next couple days. We are working as gate guards in NM so I need good weather and time to get to it. For those that mention it I’m aware of need for tank to be full. Actually it may have never worked. I just assumed element was burned out so replaced but old one looked ok. Since I had the new one I didn’t test old one but wasn’t burnt through. Thanks for all the info I will chase all this down. Thanks Ron

ralph0808 · 02-14-2020, 08:46 PM

You can check the old element with your meter in the continuity mode (ohms). If it test good usually about 7-10 ohms it should be good. If no reading or open the element is probably bad. You can test the one in your tank same way just be sure to turn power off and disconnect wire at the terminals before putting meter test leads on the terminals. Make sure the 120 volts is OFF before test is done!

bddadles · 02-18-2020, 06:21 AM

I would test for electric at the element with the switch in each position to see if there is power there. I also saw this problem recently. there was power at the element but no hot water. Pulled the thermostat cover and the stud holding the thermostat was broke off the tank. Wasn't mine and the owner is taking it back to dealer when they get home.

The switch at the tank is for the electric.