Electrical 50 amp EMS hardwired problem

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by Walt Bennett

And all that just continues to complicate a simple fact that if you want to shove 50 amps on each of the two circuits in your RV, the breakers in your panel will limit your use to 30 amps each. That's why every pedestal you look into will also have ganged 30 amp breakers. YOU DO NOT HAVE TWO 50 AMP CIRCUITS IN YOUR RV. Very simple and you can actually get your eyeballs on the components in your coach and see for yourself.

It doesn't matter if you've got a cable running directly from a nuclear power plant, if there's a breaker in the way that's going to limit what you can get out at 30 amps, that's all you'll get before it trips.

You have the internet at your fingertips.

Look up any RV park pedestal and see that they contain:

1, 15 or 20 amp, 120 volt GFCI receptacle and breaker.

1, 30 amp, 130 volt receptacle and breaker.

1, 50 amp, 125/250 volt receptacle with a ganged 50 amp breaker.

I have never seen a ganged, 30 amp circuit breaker in a camp ground. Why would the use that on a 50 amp receptacale ?

[CF-104]

Thanks to all that replied -- sounds like the external EMS-PT50X is theway to go ..... FLAME OFF PLEASE.

Originally Posted by Scottybdivin

CF-104, I harwired my HW50C into my previous 5th wheel. Guess where it is now? It's still in my previous 5th wheel. You need to be a 3-armed monkey to get in there in the 1st place. There is no functional difference between it and the portable version. I chose the latter for my current RV. If I feel I'm in a questionable area, I put a cable lock on it.



Walt Bennet, a 50A service is indeed 100A of 110V power. 50A on each leg. Otherwise how do you think big rigs run 3 AC's and everything else in the house?

[wa8yxm]

Every cable has two ends.. ONE end of your power system is the INLET where you connect your shore cord.
The other end of that cable will either be an ATS if you have a built in generator (Rare on trailers)

Or you MAIN 120v Power Distribution panel

And that is where I would put the HW-50C in your case

IN my case it will go next to the ATS, But I know where that is and I have one.

[WeBeFulltime]

Originally Posted by CF-104

I have no access to the FW now (in winter storage) ... but recall that I looked in the pass-through, there does not appear to be access as the water wall (for want of a better term), controls are there on the rearward wall facing the spot whee I need to access. As far as access to the termination - I presume that is the fuse box. Its in the kitchen under the counter very close to the stairs,

I have looked and the rats nest under there looks hopeless, that is why I wanted a single 50 amp (6 or 8 g wire) cable run access that was impossible to confuse with anything else. GOD who runs the wire etc in these things??

I suppose the inverter / fuse box could be pulled out - not my 1st or even 2nd choice. Still someone must have done this in a similar circumstance.

I removed (after disconnecting from pedestal) my converter/breaker panel and installed my hardwired Progressive Industries 50A EMS behind it with no problems. I have done this on 2 different 5th wheels and it was very easy. YOUR mileage may vary.

[dayle1]

Originally Posted by CF-104

Thanks to all that replied -- sounds like the external EMS-PT50X is theway to go ..... FLAME OFF PLEASE.

But a hard wired unit will have a display in the Rv that shows voltage and amps on each hot leg. Can't forget to use it or get stolen.

[marcham]

Originally Posted by CF-104

WHaaaaaat the ...........

last summer I bought a 2017 Chaparral 30RLS and am looking at hard wiring a Progressive Industries EMS - HW50C .... (I was going to put a 30 amp EMS in as we have never used a 50 amp service nor do we have a second AC), anyway either way my electrical (external) hookup is in the middle of an apparently inaccessible area of the side. Under the shower (no access from the inside that I see) and far from the front pass-through - 4 feet at least -- HELP.

Do you have 30A or 50a service in your trailer ( 3 prongs or 4)? Do you have a generator or prewire for a generator? If so you have a transfer switch and you can choose to install the ems before or after the transfer switch.

The best place to hardwire it would be wherever your AC electrical panel is. In my tt, I pulled the incoming wires from the incoming ac circuit breaker panel to an adjacent cabinet below the sink. I then pulled new wires from the ems to the ac circuit breakers.

The ems has shut off the power several times due to brown outs and saved us once from a defective pedestal. Its always on, nothing to connect and there is a bypass switch on the display should it malfunction. With my 30A inlet, I use the display to manage electrical loads (ac, microwave and hit water heater can't run at the same time). Install took me 2hrs.


I can probably give you a hand in the spring, I'm in Portage.

Per ardua ad astra.

[Tom-NC]

Walt Bennet
For your info there is 220 Volt AC across the 2 hot leads of a 50 amp receptacle. There is 110 Volt AC from one leg of 50 amp receptacle to common leg. If you don't believe me then get a volt meter set for the 500 volt range and put it across the 2 hot leads of a 50 Amp receptacle.

Thank you

[marcham]

You should have room behind the electrical panel or in the cabinet just above.

[xrated]

Originally Posted by Tom-NC

Walt Bennet
For your info there is 220 Volt AC across the 2 hot leads of a 50 amp receptacle. There is 110 Volt AC from one leg of 50 amp receptacle to common leg. If you don't believe me then get a volt meter set for the 500 volt range and put it across the 2 hot leads of a 50 Amp receptacle.

Thank you

I already explained that to him in post number 13. He obviously has been grossly misinformed about RV electrical systems.

And actually, most voltages now days are a lot closer to 120/240 VAC than the older nomenclature of 220/110 VAC

At home, a normal reading is in the 124 - 125 VAC range from line to neutral, and very close to 250 VAC line to line.

[Duoglide1]

My last coach was a Monaco Exec and the clothes dryer was 240V. It required what we call 50amp service to be used.


2012 NuWay HitchHiker 363RSBDA, 2016 Ford F-350 Dually 6.7

[head gamez]

Find the breaker box and remove it. Disconnect the feed line and connect it to the EMS. Use a piece of cable from the hardware store to connect EMS back into the breaker box.

That's what I did, and it took about an hour... which included routing the stiff cable and contorting my 225lb body to crazy positions on the stairs to access it.

When ready to sell, just remove the EMS and the "jumper" and connect the main feed line.

[CF-104]

OK consensuses (I guess).

even though, I most likely will only ever use 30 amp (plug in) - I HAVE a 50 amp fuse box / inverter / box / service (input) into my trailer.

THUS I need (if hard wired) a 50 amp EMS - got it.

If I get a external EMS then I can get a 30 amp - but am limiting my self in the future to 30 amp ONLY.

Soooooooo ..... my question now is (someone surely has pictures) of pulling the electrical panel out and accessing the 50 amp cord so I can put the HWEMS before the panel. (this is what the previous poster was suggesting I presume). Yes this would be easier if I had access to the trailer right now.

LOCAL TEMP -20 Celsius or about- 4 F

[marcham]

When you use a 30A (male) to 50A (female) adapter, L1 and L2 in your trailer will both be tied to the single 30A line at the pedestal. If you have a 240V load (unlikely) in your trailer then it would not work. You'll have to carefully manage the loads as you risk tripping the pedestal 30A breaker unless you have a load management panel (unlikely in that brand of rv).

So you now have a total of 3600W available, versus 12000W with a 50A pedestal.

If you use a 50A ems, it will not care if you use a 30A or 50A pedestal. Both L1 and L2 will be protected. If you hardwire, you must use a 50a unit for your 50A service. For portable, you could get a 30A ems, but why limit yourself.

Both the pt series (portable) and hw (hard wired) have a display, but having the display inside is an advantage when using a 30A pedestal, to prevent overloads. It also protects you from a damaged cord, which the portable unit does not.

http://wheelingit.us/2017/01/23/rv-s...ith-ems-hw50c/

Note that your trailer is available with 30A service (3 pins)and 50a (4 pins) as an option, so be sure you know what you have before you order.

I'm not far away if you want help in the spring... Cant wait for spring!

With a hardwire install, you could put the display just below the counter along the hallway. The wire requires just a very small hole.

When you pull the power panel out you will see the back of the ac circuit breakers, the wiring to the converter and the wiring to the dc 12v fuses. The large diameter wires will be the incoming line from the pedestal (L1, L2, neutral, ground). To make the hardwire install easier, you'll need a short section of 8/3 wiring so as to not cut any existing wires. This facilitates removal of the ems if you wish when you sell the trailer. The converter will either be built in to the power distribution panel or a seperate unit bolted to the floor behind the panel.

[CF-104]

OK then .....

Where are you ... I'm in Garden Grove WPG