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vetplus40 · 05-06-2021, 07:58 PM

I have a 2011 Forest River Sierra Select that is having electrical issues. I have a standard rocker switch in my switch panel that controls 4 ceiling lights. The lights stopped working, so I pulled the panel to inspect. The insulation on the wire lugs on the switch had turned dark and brittle and the two connecting wires to the switch had turned brown on the ends.

For troubleshooting purposes, I decided to hook up a spare rocker switch to see if I could detect anything. in just a few minutes, the temporary switch got so hot that you couldn't touch it and the tension of the connecting wire actually pulled one of the metal tangs (where the wire lug connect) out of the switch housing.

Obviously, I have an overcurrent situation going on, but I am a bit confused as to why my 15 amp fuse didn't blow. At first, I thought that the previous owner might have installed a fuse with a higher rating, but the panel says that this circuit has a 15 amp fuse.

At this point, I guess in need to remove each ceiling light and look for any issues, but I thought that I would ask here for any additional advice.

Thanks.

CRV2 · 05-06-2021, 08:08 PM

Regarding the fuse not blowing, years back when vehicles had a 12v coil style cigarette light, that thing would get glowing red hot, all under 15 amps as that was the common size fuse for it. Point being, you can have a lot of resistance and heat while still yet not exceeding 15 amps. I would, as you stated, check the wiring in all of the lights and I would consider that even a smaller fuse might serve you better. If you don't have LED bulbs already, I would consider installing them while checking all the lights wiring (or soon afterwards). ~Craig

cfowler55 · 05-06-2021, 10:07 PM

Try cutting the wires back , past the burned / brittle part. You may need to lengthen them to reconnect to the switch. Heat on an electrical circuit is generally caused by poor connection. If you have access to an amp meter check the load after repairing the wires. An overload should definitely blow the fuse before the switch heats up.
Charlie

vetplus40 · 05-06-2021, 10:37 PM

Thank you both for the replies. Excessive resistance is certainly something that should have occurred to me. I am going to pick up some new switches in the next day or two and see where I am after I check the lights themselves. Unfortunately, my ammeter is not with me (as I work on the road), but I will likely be home shortly. thanks again.

clifford j · 05-07-2021, 04:37 AM

Have the individual bulbs been changed to higher wattage. Were both wires at the switch overheated or just one. If you reused the same wire you may have repeated the problem.

CLIFFORD

CecilD · 05-07-2021, 08:13 AM

Disconnect your battery. Pull the bulbs and check with an ohm meter. Load side of the switch to ground should show infinite rsistance indicating an open circuit. If your resistance approaches zero, you have a short. If everything tests fine, you may need lower wattage bulbs or possibly LEDs, or better connections to your switch.

tuffr2 · 05-07-2021, 10:38 AM

I had a similar issue with a 2011 5th wheel that I had. I had 6 lights on one switch which was too much current to keep all 6 old fashion lights on. In my case the switch started to fail. I replaced the switch and manually turned off 3 lights to reduce the current needed through the switch.

I am glad that LED lights are now being used which require a lot less electricity.

xc-mark · 05-08-2021, 04:16 AM

the guy that built/ wired the trailer most likely has a bad connection and it heats up and pops the fuse . I would start off with a LED light up grade and checking connections at the 12 fuse panel , they dont twist there wire strands before they put it under the set screws .

traveldawg · 05-08-2021, 12:45 PM

I agree with the folks who suggested cutting back the wires and putting on new connectors. And the suggestion to check the current.

If you find those lights draw too much current you could put a 30 amp relay in the circuit such that the on/off switch controls the relay and the relay provides current to the light. That would at least reduce the amount of current through the switch and maybe keep it cooler.

LED lighting is a good suggestion. it's just a cost consideration.

Tex50 · 05-09-2021, 05:40 AM

A year or so back I was having problem with my signal lights not working. I was at Amish Family RV Repair and Orvan suggested that I look in the back of the trailer where the metal flooring trusses rest on the rv frame. Sure enough, when I inspected the area, I found that the wires were getting caught between the floor framework and trailer framework and causing a short. I noticed that the insulation was burnt, yet it did not blow the fuse.
It is possible that the wiring is making contact with a metal component, yet not blowing the fuse.
I know that is not supposed to happen, but it happened to me.
The way I would check, is when you get back to your meter, remove the bulbs from the affected light, and then check for continuity between the The affected wire And metal framework of the rv.
Good luck.Finding wiring issues can sometimes be tough.

vetplus40 · 05-10-2021, 02:32 AM

Thanks again for the suggestions. I will certainly strip the wires back before putting on new connectors. I will also see if I can replace the bulbs with LED's.

vetplus40 · 05-12-2021, 06:21 AM

Update: Replaced the burnt wires and replaced the rocker switches. So far, no issues.

Myjunker · 05-13-2021, 02:24 PM

Did you get led lights?

vetplus40 · 05-14-2021, 04:32 AM

Not yet. I am trying to locate replacement bulbs as opposed to having to replace 4 complete light fixtures. My light have small bayonet type bulbs as opposed to the screw in type.