Community Forums

mtofell · 05-26-2019, 07:59 PM

Did you do too much, too little or just what you had hoped for?

I'm considering for 3 reasons:

1. Make the trailer level - it's close enough now and I just live with it being a bit nose high but it would be nice to have it level (bed rail clearance is currently no problem).
2. Keep the back end from dragging - I've ripped jacks off the back twice on gas station driveways and potholes.
3. Headroom under the outdoor kitchen - At 6'4" I'm always having to duck to clear the door which is kind of a pain. I often just pull on blocks on both sides but it sure would be nice to have an extra 3-4" to start with.

I'm still young-ish (47) and don't mind an extra hop into the the trailer. I could (and have been) live with it the way it is but it sure would be nice to have a few more inches. I did have some HD rollers welded on the back and elevated the jacks so that shouldn't be a problem any longer. It's really just a collection of things.

From researching it seems I could do some spacers for 1-2" (and will shop that option) but getting a solid 4-5" would really help.

So, has anyone done it and how did it go?

And yes, the hitch and trailer are maxed out and the shackles came already on the top of the axles. Trailer is a 2016 Keystone 308bhds, truck a 2014 Ram 2500 Hemi totally stock.

wingnut60 · 05-26-2019, 08:07 PM

Is your truck lifted? Sure sounds like the trailer should fit fairly level on a stock 2500.
Any competent spring/axle shop can fit a square tube spacer in and redo the shackles, but having the axles already under the springs + a lift might get a little top-heavy.

mtofell · 05-26-2019, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wingnut60

Is your truck lifted? Sure sounds like the trailer should fit fairly level on a stock 2500.
Any competent spring/axle shop can fit a square tube spacer in and redo the shackles, but having the axles already under the springs + a lift might get a little top-heavy.

Truck is totally stock with no lift. Around 2014 is when all the manufacturers started making these trucks ridiculously tall in the rear for whatever reason. It's one of those things where a couple inches would help but if I'm going to do it I would like 4" (I think). I researched this 3 years ago when I got the 5th and I seem to remember you can get spacers up to a couple inches but more than that you want to have a full sub-frame welded due to your point of it getting top heavy.

MnP · 05-26-2019, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtofell

Did you do too much, too little or just what you had hoped for?

I'm considering for 3 reasons:

1. Make the trailer level - it's close enough now and I just live with it being a bit nose high but it would be nice to have it level (bed rail clearance is currently no problem).
2. Keep the back end from dragging - I've ripped jacks off the back twice on gas station driveways and potholes.
3. Headroom under the outdoor kitchen - At 6'4" I'm always having to duck to clear the door which is kind of a pain. I often just pull on blocks on both sides but it sure would be nice to have an extra 3-4" to start with.

I'm still young-ish (47) and don't mind an extra hop into the the trailer. I could (and have been) live with it the way it is but it sure would be nice to have a few more inches. I did have some HD rollers welded on the back and elevated the jacks so that shouldn't be a problem any longer. It's really just a collection of things.

From researching it seems I could do some spacers for 1-2" (and will shop that option) but getting a solid 4-5" would really help.

So, has anyone done it and how did it go?

And yes, the hitch and trailer are maxed out and the shackles came already on the top of the axles. Trailer is a 2016 Keystone 308bhds, truck a 2014 Ram 2500 Hemi totally stock.

I just got out of MorRyde in Elkhart. Had my 5er lifted 4 inches. They will measure your rig attached to the truck and determine how much you need to be level. It's about $2500, takes two days and they do a professional job.

Old-Biscuit · 05-26-2019, 11:32 PM

Lippert makes an alignment kit that will also add 2" in lift

LCI Correct Track
They have weld on and bolt on kits

charliez · 05-27-2019, 06:25 AM

I lifted my previousd 5'er. It was nose high with my 04 Ram then when I went with a 12 Ram 4x4 it was extremely nose high.

Here's what I did. I parked it connected on flat and level area of my yard. I used a long level to project lines and marks on it. When I initially measured things it looked like it was about 12 inches low in the back. That does not mean I had to add a 12 inch lift.

I put jack under each axle and lifted one inch at a time and made notes of the results. I came up with needed to lift 4 inches to get it to a reasonably level state. Then I waited a few day, and did ut again to make sure I was sure.

I got some 2X4x 3/16 thich square tubing. It takes alot and it's heavy. I also got some 3x1/4 flat to recreate the spring hangers.. Then I parked it in front of my shop and worked two days blocking it up in as many places as I could and made sure the frame was perfectly level no matter where I randomly checked. This is important later on.

I learned fast that you cannot build a subframe then install it unless you have access to some hefty material handling stuff.

I used a cuttoff wheel to make marks where the spring hangers were and made a careful map of it too.

Then I carefully removed the axles and wheels at the spring bolts. They can get crazy on you fast but there is no stored spring tension like a coil spring. Just roll them forward out of your way.

Then I built the subframe one piece at a time, paying attention to things like where is the tanks in relation to adding cross members. I put 4 cross members and capped the ends that were left open. You also need to be a good welder with good equipment. Not harbor Freight and very clean surfaces. My brother has all that stuff and is very good at it.

I slowly stitched it all together. Long complete welds are not required and not recommended. You need to keep the heat in the frame under control and not allow it to pull or twist the frame.

Then we added the straps to create the spring hangers. I made mine long enough so my lift would be adjustable if needed. You can always cut the extra length off later.

I made sure it was all painted very well, so nothing got between the frame and subframe to cause corrosion.

Then just put the axles back on and try it out. You'll need to re tighten the axle bolts after you get a few miles on it then check them occasionally for the next few hundred miles.

This is all doable if you have the ability and resources. It will affect resale value later by reducing who your going to sell it to. Most people will see it and notice it's different and question its durability and will need a taller tv to pull it. It will also affect the steps and stabilizers. I had to carry an additional step and a thicker block to go under the stabilizers. At 4 inch lift I still had height clearance everywhere i traveled.

aknavy · 05-27-2019, 07:32 AM

I had mine lifted four inches by MorRyde. I already had the suspension, so had them lift it for the same reasons you are - dragging the rear end. Handles better now, and I can go far more places and I haven't dragged since the lift. I also have about 8 inches of bed clearance, so I can handle uneven terrain.

I also moved my levelers down two inches so I still have clearance, but they don't extend as long.

As far as steps go, I added a step to my Glo Step Revolutions, so I now have five.