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Old 06-22-2022, 12:38 PM   #1
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Fresh water tank filling

We have a 2017 Forest River Wildcat. Recently, I've noticed that the fresh water tank is filling (slowly) while fully hooked up. I have never kept much water in it, and hadn't added water to it in months.

I hooked it up to my home water supply, in anticipation of a trip coming up. This morning, I noticed a slow drip coming from the fresh water intake. I checked and the tank is full. Any ideas on how the fresh water tank is filling up without purposely adding water to it?
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Old 06-22-2022, 12:48 PM   #2
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If you have a fill valve, a valve that switches your incoming fresh water from internal use to filling the tank, just make sure it's closed. If you don't have one, you're getting some back flow from somewhere. Does your pump work?
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Old 06-22-2022, 01:32 PM   #3
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Mineral build up or debris in the water pump can cause the check valve or diaphragm to leak by allowing water into the fresh water tank.
You could turn off the city water supply and run your pump for a bit to see if that clears it up. If it doesn't, then you're going to need to take it apart to clean it.
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Old 06-22-2022, 01:39 PM   #4
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YEP^^^^^

FILL Valve (if equipped) leaking thru when connected to City Water
OR
Internal Check Valve (diaphragm) in pump not sealing...scale/calcium build up. Sometimes just using the pump will clear the check valve and allow it to seal

Which One???
Easiest access one...remove pipe after fill valve or suction line to pump and see if water leaks out with city water connected.
FILL Valve...usually an O-ring get dislodged and allow water to leak by
Pump Check Valve...can be replaced OR install an in-line check valve on suction line to pump
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Old 06-22-2022, 02:04 PM   #5
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We don't use the freshwater tank to hold drinking water, but we do fill it before a trip to have fresh water while on the road or boondocking for flushing the toilet, taking showers, washing dishes, etc.

If this is your first trip of the season and your RV has been winterized, make sure to close all the drains, then run clean water through all the water lines to get rid of the antifreeze in the system. Running fresh water through all the lines could also clear any minor blockages in the system.
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Old 06-22-2022, 03:11 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidb104 View Post
We have a 2017 Forest River Wildcat. Recently, I've noticed that the fresh water tank is filling (slowly) while fully hooked up. I have never kept much water in it, and hadn't added water to it in months.

I hooked it up to my home water supply, in anticipation of a trip coming up. This morning, I noticed a slow drip coming from the fresh water intake. I checked and the tank is full. Any ideas on how the fresh water tank is filling up without purposely adding water to it?
What kind of valve do you have in your setup for the water inlet?
If it is an Anderson valve, especially from around the year you are talking about, the body of the valve is made of plastic. These are known to fail and leak by causing the fresh tank to fill and overflow.
You may be lucky and can slowly rotate the handle to try to get the o-rings to reset. But first release the pressure on the valve and slowly turn the handle, it may work, it may not.
Our Anderson valve went bad on us on June 15th and I had to install a new Anderson Valve. The new redesign valve is the body is made of brass. If you need a new one there is a 6-week lead time from the company.

Link:
https://www.abcorv.com/
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Old 06-22-2022, 09:08 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by hamm2018 View Post
What kind of valve do you have in your setup for the water inlet?

If it is an Anderson valve, especially from around the year you are talking about, the body of the valve is made of plastic. These are known to fail and leak by causing the fresh tank to fill and overflow.

You may be lucky and can slowly rotate the handle to try to get the o-rings to reset. But first release the pressure on the valve and slowly turn the handle, it may work, it may not.

Our Anderson valve went bad on us on June 15th and I had to install a new Anderson Valve. The new redesign valve is the body is made of brass. If you need a new one there is a 6-week lead time from the company.



Link:

https://www.abcorv.com/


I had the same issue in March. The above was my culprit and is quite common after a few years of age with the Anderson Kantleak Valves. (Should have been named Anderson Mightleak…)

Mine is a 2016; so it made it 5 years. If you do have this valve it’s likely the issue.

In March, Amazon had the redesigned brass body replacement in stock so I’d suggest checking there if one is needed. A little more pricey than I expected….about $230, as I recall.

One note to save some potential confusion if you do need to order the replacement…..
The original plastic valve is a 4 position valve (1) city; (2) normal/dry camp; (3) tank fill; (4) winterize.
The new brass bodied replacement is only 3 positions; but it is the direct replacement. city and dry camp have been combined into one position but the plumbing connections are the same. They have just eliminated the need to switch valve positions when using the pump and fresh tank vs campground water supply.


Happy trails,
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Old 06-23-2022, 09:15 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by RVnAggie View Post
I had the same issue in March. The above was my culprit and is quite common after a few years of age with the Anderson Kantleak Valves. (Should have been named Anderson Mightleak…)

Mine is a 2016; so it made it 5 years. If you do have this valve it’s likely the issue.

In March, Amazon had the redesigned brass body replacement in stock so I’d suggest checking there if one is needed. A little more pricey than I expected….about $230, as I recall.

One note to save some potential confusion if you do need to order the replacement…..
The original plastic valve is a 4 position valve (1) city; (2) normal/dry camp; (3) tank fill; (4) winterize.
The new brass bodied replacement is only 3 positions; but it is the direct replacement. city and dry camp have been combined into one position but the plumbing connections are the same. They have just eliminated the need to switch valve positions when using the pump and fresh tank vs campground water supply.


Happy trails,
Our valve made it from October 2017 to June 15th, 2022.
I think I only gave $160 for our replacement in June 2019 at the National Rally. I think the cost now is around $180, maybe.

Also, to the OP, if you need to change it out, let me know I have a diagram that shows how to hook it up.
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Old 06-24-2022, 05:57 AM   #9
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Thanks to all for such prompt responses! I do not have a fill valve. There's a separate intake for filling the fresh water tank. The fresh water pump is working well. I pumped out some of the water to reduce the level in the tank. It has not leaked again, and I'm waiting to see if the problem re-occurs.
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Old 06-25-2022, 11:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidb104 View Post
Thanks to all for such prompt responses! I do not have a fill valve. There's a separate intake for filling the fresh water tank. The fresh water pump is working well. I pumped out some of the water to reduce the level in the tank. It has not leaked again, and I'm waiting to see if the problem re-occurs.
Leaking back thru the pump. Running the pump many times will clear out the problem. It may happen again, most especially if you operate the pump when the city water pressure is on the RV. Shutting off city water and running the pump extensively will fix it 9 out of 10 times.

I'd wager this is in the top two or three questions asked in the past couple of years. There are a zillion videos on how to fix this on YT.

Charles
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