Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > TRAVEL TRAILER, 5th WHEEL & TRUCK CAMPER FORUMS > 5th Wheel Discussion
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-24-2019, 08:06 AM   #1
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 3
Gap in terminal bar on roof

I've begun repairs on our 5er due to water (of course) and bad caulking. There's layers and layers of caulk. 3 different types it appears. And none of them working well. So I'm scraping all the crap off that I can get and will be cleaning it up and reappling the dicor.
Working on the roof front terminal bar, I discovered these massive gaps where the bar does not touch the roof. It's was all covered by caulking but obviously water got under it at some point. There's at least one rusted off screw and one that moves in the plywood. We're not redecking at this point ye but know it's going to need it in a few years.
My husband thinks we should not pull the bar up. Just jam the dicor under the gap and then add more/bigger/longer screws in the bar to get it to pull down. + my original plan of dicor then eternabond tape over that.

Does that sound like the best option for now?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20190922_163422.jpg
Views:	30
Size:	322.1 KB
ID:	261334   Click image for larger version

Name:	20190922_163424.jpg
Views:	30
Size:	346.0 KB
ID:	261335  

06denali is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free! RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 09-24-2019, 08:16 AM   #2
Senior Member
cavie's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 3,165
I would remove the old bar and replace with a new one. MUCH easier to do the job. It is a common piece.
2011 Keystone Sprinter 323 BHS. Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale MA. Retired Master Electrician. All Motor homes are RV's. All RV's are not Motor homes.
cavie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2019, 09:26 AM   #3
Senior Member
Rolfsted's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: St Joseph, IL
Posts: 334
Wow and I thought my previous 5th wheel roof was a mess. It amazes me how some people think the more caulk/silicone or both together will make a leak go away. I had to remove the whole roof to fix mine.
Rolfsted is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2019, 09:30 AM   #4
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Syracuse, Indiana
Posts: 108
Husband wants to go with plan "A".
Wife wants to go with plan "B" and asks us to chose sides.
No thank you.
WantAB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2019, 09:44 AM   #5
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 1,644
Longer screws wont work because the plywood is thin and the holes are stripped out and rotten from water running down the shank of the screw. . Moving the screws a few inches away from the original hole is the best bet. Removing the strip completely and cleaning the whole area properly is the best way to ensure the new sealant sticks.
Professional mechanic.
2018 Ram 2500 HD Mega cab.
mobilemike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2019, 08:05 AM   #6
Senior Member
Rolfsted's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: St Joseph, IL
Posts: 334
Originally Posted by WantAB View Post
Husband wants to go with plan "A".
Wife wants to go with plan "B" and asks us to chose sides.
No thank you. advice for it's worth….new roof and new husband.

Happy travels!!
Rolfsted is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2019, 06:54 AM   #7
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 3

Replacing the roof is in the long term plans. Hoping to make a big push on it this weekend. Got delams in front and back and a roof leak in the middle slide out. All due to bad repairs in the past, poor caulking and our inability to jump on the problems eariler. But, I've pulled most of the bad stuff out already, and have the supplies to repair on hand, just need the time!

I think I'm going to pull the bar on top today, see if we can't get it bent to a better shape to fit. Cause leaving it like that is just asking for more trouble.
06denali is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2019, 07:45 AM   #8
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Carlos, Texas
Posts: 1,750
What is that wire for? Did someone drill a hole and add that? It looks like asking for a leak. Can it be removed and/or put somewhere different?
charliez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2019, 12:17 AM   #9
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Walnut Creek Ca USA
Posts: 834
Eternabond is not needed if calking is cleaned off and all new caulk is put on to prevent water intrusion on all joints. Use a heat gun to help in removing old Dicor. Dicor is not to be used under any transition strips, skylights, vents, ladders, or vent pipe covers, side transitions, or anything else attached to the roof membrane. Only Butyl tape is used there. If you pull up old transition strips. Be certain to add butyl tape under new aluminum transitions and screw down between the fiberglass and EPDM roof membrane using new stainless screws so no further rust can start. If it’s been cleaned throughly and new butyl tape applied under the transition strips and rescrewed down and Dicor self leveling applied over the top of all of it...why apply Etrnabond? That’s like applying a bandaid over the healed stitches after surgery 3 years ago. There is no need. My last roof job I did on a 38 foot trailer required almost 25 tubes of Dicor self leveling chalk, so, buy it in quantity not in single tubes. Amazon or other web based sales centers are way less especially if bought in quantity. If I remember right one or two tubes were about 12-15$ each. 6 tubes if bought at once, were something like 36 $ dropping the price from 12 dollars a tube to 6$ per tube. Paul R. Haller
Paul R. Haller is offline   Reply With Quote


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Side Terminal Start battery Finhawk Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 3 05-19-2011 08:36 AM
Location of scan tool terminal wth Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 2 11-01-2010 08:56 AM
Adding a disconnect switch and terminal strip to batteries kartvines General Discussion 8 10-06-2010 06:53 AM
Has Anyone Used Colton Truck Terminal? OldForester Alpine Coach Owner's Forum 13 02-19-2010 09:17 AM
Exercise the terminal drain? morninghill MH-General Discussions & Problems 5 03-31-2009 11:02 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:17 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.