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Old 05-06-2021, 07:46 PM   #1
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Generator

After the problems we experienced in South Texas last winter, have decided to buy a portable generator for the fiver..What is the best way to figure the size I need? Am looking at inverter type, mainly due to the fuel economy and quietness. Thought about dual fuel, but not sure about it. My rig has one a/c, gas/elec hot water and refrigerator. Gas furnace...


Thanks
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Old 05-06-2021, 07:55 PM   #2
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Most of my friends have 2 Honda 2000ís or 2200ís with the parallel cord. They are easy to move around and you can run just one when needed. Same price as a 3500 but lots easier to move around.
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Old 05-06-2021, 08:00 PM   #3
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Onan is 5500 watt in toy Hauler and runs it. Buy portable 9,000 no worries
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Old 05-07-2021, 11:41 AM   #4
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My previous 2 5erís had onboard generator, one was gasoline and one was propane. We experienced an extended power when we had the gas generator. I had to drive around finding a gas station in an area that had power and then daily trips to get gas. I used to go to NASCAR races with the 5er with the LPG generator. I ran the entire weekend on 2 [40#] LPG cylinders albeit not running 24/7.

I just went thru the TX power failure with 2 Honda 2000 generators connected in parallel to get 30A. The first 2 days I had an issue. My newest 5er has a built in surge protector and kept shutting the coach off due to a open ground condition. After some research I found out that portable generators do not bond ground and neutral. I found a work around is to connect a wire between the neutral and ground pins on the RV adapter thus bonding them. You can purchase a 15A bonded adapter that when plugged into any of the AC plugs on the generator and will bond the entire generator. The reason that the coach doesnít do the bonding (as your home does) is by code, electrical and RVIA. When you plug into the campground power, it is bonded by CG power and there can only be one source of bonding so RVIA says that the coach should not do any bonding . If you donít use a surge protector when plugged into the portable generator, you wonít have this issue.

Undoubtedly there will be some that do not experience this issue even when using a surge protector. True. I ran 13 hours before it cut out the first time. I canít explain that, but once it did quit it wouldnít work anymore. I ran an extension cord to the power converter so I would at least have heat and lights.

I researched to find a 50A portable generator but way too pricey and difficult to be transported around, especially being a full timer. But Honda and General make the quietest generator. Generac claims to be quieter than Honda in their ads. People around me told me they couldnít hear mine running. I looked into putting the onboard Onan 6500 generator into my coach (it is already prepped for a generator) but it was again pricey.

Long, but I hope it helps.
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Old 05-07-2021, 01:23 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roam America View Post
My previous 2 5erís had onboard generator, one was gasoline and one was propane. We experienced an extended power when we had the gas generator. I had to drive around finding a gas station in an area that had power and then daily trips to get gas. I used to go to NASCAR races with the 5er with the LPG generator. I ran the entire weekend on 2 [40#] LPG cylinders albeit not running 24/7.



I just went thru the TX power failure with 2 Honda 2000 generators connected in parallel to get 30A. The first 2 days I had an issue. My newest 5er has a built in surge protector and kept shutting the coach off due to a open ground condition. After some research I found out that portable generators do not bond ground and neutral. I found a work around is to connect a wire between the neutral and ground pins on the RV adapter thus bonding them. You can purchase a 15A bonded adapter that when plugged into any of the AC plugs on the generator and will bond the entire generator. The reason that the coach doesnít do the bonding (as your home does) is by code, electrical and RVIA. When you plug into the campground power, it is bonded by CG power and there can only be one source of bonding so RVIA says that the coach should not do any bonding . If you donít use a surge protector when plugged into the portable generator, you wonít have this issue.



Undoubtedly there will be some that do not experience this issue even when using a surge protector. True. I ran 13 hours before it cut out the first time. I canít explain that, but once it did quit it wouldnít work anymore. I ran an extension cord to the power converter so I would at least have heat and lights.



I researched to find a 50A portable generator but way too pricey and difficult to be transported around, especially being a full timer. But Honda and General make the quietest generator. Generac claims to be quieter than Honda in their ads. People around me told me they couldnít hear mine running. I looked into putting the onboard Onan 6500 generator into my coach (it is already prepped for a generator) but it was again pricey.



Long, but I hope it helps.


You can get a 5500 Onan for about 4 k from Norwalk power . Free shipping . About 600 to install not counting transfer switch and remote start if not already installed .
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Old 05-07-2021, 01:37 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roam America View Post
My previous 2 5erís had onboard generator, one was gasoline and one was propane. We experienced an extended power when we had the gas generator. I had to drive around finding a gas station in an area that had power and then daily trips to get gas. I used to go to NASCAR races with the 5er with the LPG generator. I ran the entire weekend on 2 [40#] LPG cylinders albeit not running 24/7.

I just went thru the TX power failure with 2 Honda 2000 generators connected in parallel to get 30A. The first 2 days I had an issue. My newest 5er has a built in surge protector and kept shutting the coach off due to a open ground condition. After some research I found out that portable generators do not bond ground and neutral. I found a work around is to connect a wire between the neutral and ground pins on the RV adapter thus bonding them. You can purchase a 15A bonded adapter that when plugged into any of the AC plugs on the generator and will bond the entire generator. The reason that the coach doesnít do the bonding (as your home does) is by code, electrical and RVIA. When you plug into the campground power, it is bonded by CG power and there can only be one source of bonding so RVIA says that the coach should not do any bonding . If you donít use a surge protector when plugged into the portable generator, you wonít have this issue.

Undoubtedly there will be some that do not experience this issue even when using a surge protector. True. I ran 13 hours before it cut out the first time. I canít explain that, but once it did quit it wouldnít work anymore. I ran an extension cord to the power converter so I would at least have heat and lights.

I researched to find a 50A portable generator but way too pricey and difficult to be transported around, especially being a full timer. But Honda and General make the quietest generator. Generac claims to be quieter than Honda in their ads. People around me told me they couldnít hear mine running. I looked into putting the onboard Onan 6500 generator into my coach (it is already prepped for a generator) but it was again pricey.

Long, but I hope it helps.
A true 50 Amp gen puts out 12,000 watts and 240 volts or 120. They are too heavy to be portable. Mine is liquid cooled and weighs about 780 #'s
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Old 05-07-2021, 05:09 PM   #7
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Winter in Texas probably don't need A/C right? That is the big question. If no, then a single 2000 watt generator should do.
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Old 05-07-2021, 07:31 PM   #8
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Thanks everyone, I am looking at the Westinghouse 4400 or one like it. I like the quietness of the inverter type and am seriously leaning toward dual fuel, just because when the power went out in Texas, the only fuel we could get was propane, and some days that was an all day wait...again thanks....
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Old 05-08-2021, 04:12 AM   #9
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https://www.norwall.com/products/Wes...or-iGen4500DF/

this should get you started , you may need a few propane parts to tap into you trailer if your thinking about that option.
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Old 05-08-2021, 04:57 AM   #10
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One good argument for portable is to get the exhaust as far away as possible from the rv.
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Old 05-08-2021, 09:39 AM   #11
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One good argument for portable is to get the exhaust as far away as possible from the rv.
No doubt, I had a class A and never was comfortable with the generator running at night. I guess I read to many stories of people dying, due to exhaust leaks, etc.. just looking for a portable unit I can use for camping, backup and other projects around the house as well as with the rig...
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Old 05-08-2021, 01:17 PM   #12
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You can get a 5500 Onan for about 4 k from Norwalk power . Free shipping . About 600 to install not counting transfer switch and remote start if not already installed .
Do you have a link or other contact info for "Norwalk power" ?

TIA

(Wife wants to add a genny to her mothers sticks & bricks house)

Mike
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Old 05-08-2021, 01:27 PM   #13
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Quote trimmed for brevity
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roam America View Post
I just went thru the TX power failure with 2 Honda 2000 generators connected in parallel to get 30A. The first 2 days I had an issue. My newest 5er has a built in surge protector and kept shutting the coach off due to a open ground condition. After some research I found out that portable generators do not bond ground and neutral. I found a work around is to connect a wire between the neutral and ground pins on the RV adapter thus bonding them. You can purchase a 15A bonded adapter that when plugged into any of the AC plugs on the generator and will bond the entire generator. The reason that the coach doesn’t do the bonding (as your home does) is by code, electrical and RVIA. When you plug into the campground power, it is bonded by CG power and there can only be one source of bonding so RVIA says that the coach should not do any bonding . If you don’t use a surge protector when plugged into the portable generator, you won’t have this issue.
I once worked on a Monaco MH that had an electrical issue... The output of the transfer switch had a surge protector between it and the coach power panel. The issue turned out to be a couple of oversensitive Harbor Freight / chinese GFIs. I replaced the crap GFIs with a name brand from Big Orange (Home Depot).

In my troubleshooting I found a jumper between neutral and ground on the genny side of the transfer switch. Don't know if that was a factory feature or a previous owner mod, but it makes a lot of sense, and the power protection on the output of the ATS even more so.

Mike
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