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04-10-2018, 04:03 AM
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#57
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Notchu
Many ideas around to quiet less expensive generators
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HAHA yea. I finally found one, I bought a Generac generator 17,500 Watts. Turned absolutely everything on using it and it didn’t even attempt to bog down. Love it.
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04-10-2018, 06:45 AM
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#58
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff6146
HAHA yea. I finally found one, I bought a Generac generator 17,500 Watts. Turned absolutely everything on using it and it didn’t even attempt to bog down. Love it.
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17,500 Watts. That must be a monster !
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04-14-2018, 04:43 PM
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#59
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rampowerwago
You need to consider the power you will use rather amperage. Power is equal to volts x amps. Expressed in math form:
P=IE, or power is equal to amps (I) X volts (E)
Lets assume that we have a 50A circuit at 120 volts...
With our equation we would see 50A x 120V = 6000 watts
From this you can add up the load of power in watts of each load and determine how much capacty you need in watts for a generator. A 6000 watt generator should carry enough load to support 50 amps of load.
To muddy the water somewhat, your 50A service is really 2, 50 watt legs which gives you a total 100 amps or 12000 watts of capacity.
But in real life, even running all 3 generators, fridge, TV, etc, I can't imagine the steady state load exceeding 8,000 watts or so. The most load I'ver ever seen on mine was 65-70 amps incoming, or around 8000 watts. Most of the time it is much less.
And for what it's worth, a generator makes electricity (either AC or DC), an inverter uses DC power from the battery to make AC.
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Thank you Rampowerwagon. Best description I’ve read in a long time.
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04-14-2018, 04:46 PM
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#60
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat
17,500 Watts. That must be a monster !
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It is. It’s actually too much for the RV but we can use it for the house also.
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04-14-2018, 04:47 PM
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#61
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmartin
If you like noise and don't like your neighbors, then get the Harbor Freight generator.
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Do I not remember that the new Predator generated is rated at 57 dB? I believe that is same as Champion and very close to Honda.
I’m not a fan, just curious.
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04-15-2018, 06:50 AM
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#62
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetbriar
A 5000 or 6000 watt generator will pretty much get to where you want to be with little worries about what you can and can't run at the same time. Personally I go with a 3600 watts (30 amp). Generators start getting heavy, bulky and expensive as the power capabilities go up. A little power conservation goes a long way.
And as rampowerwago posted check the watts (power) of the appliances you want to operate to determine how to size the generator. Heating, cooling and the microwave are high demand items. TV's and such are minor. The fridge is a low power appliance but will have a start surge that can push into 20 amp range for a second or so. Same for an A/C compressor but the generator should be able to make past those instances unless they both cycle on at the same time which would be very rare.
I can run everything, except both A/C's and the electric side of the water heater, at the same time with a 3600 watt generator. Got a strange coach in the driveway. 50 amp service with a 30 amp generator.
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Sweetbriar, can I ask, which brand 3600 you own? And would buy the same again?
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04-15-2018, 07:53 AM
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#63
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,722
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Some good information and wishful thinking on this thread
How many electrically powered items will you be running at one time? Not the furnace, fireplace and a/c at the same time for sure.
You learn to do power management with 2-4000 watts or just buy big. Most folks can physically handle that size hauling it in and out of the TV. A permanent installation in the RV - well best make sure that the Lippert frame was built for a heavy genset. Our 65 pound, 3600 watt inverter generator will run almost everything very nicely but not all at the same time. The HW heater is a power 'sucker' - we use propane. We don't always need that second a/c either. And my DW knows that something needs to be turned off if she is using the hair dryer. This is camping, not a week at a luxury hotel or even glaming
__________________
Dave W
2011 Ford F250 6.7 Lariat CCLB, Gone but not forgotten
2014 Montana High Country 343RL (sold it!)
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04-15-2018, 06:08 PM
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#64
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Senior Member
Mid Atlantic Campers
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 509
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I like your answer IC2. I have a CC 34 RLSA 50 amp. I have a 3500 Champion with remote start and before someone gets all offended it is as quiet as any inverter out there. We boondocking a lot and it powers what we need nicely. We also found on our cross country trips that alot of smaller town parks and a lot of older campgrounds only have 30 amp service. To the OP you will learn in short order what 30 amps will run. We have found that 15 amps is doable once you understand power management. Good luck.
__________________
2008 CC 34RLSA / 2003 F-250 SD 6.0
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04-16-2018, 01:23 PM
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#65
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Hot Springs, VA
Posts: 1,995
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How can you tell if a particular RV has 50 amp or 30 amp service? I can't find it in the specs. Should I have made this a new question?
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04-16-2018, 01:24 PM
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#66
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Senior Member
Mid Atlantic Campers
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manwithnorv
How can you tell if a particular RV has 50 amp or 30 amp service? I can't find it in the specs.
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30 amp three prong plug. 50 4 prong plug
__________________
2008 CC 34RLSA / 2003 F-250 SD 6.0
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04-16-2018, 01:30 PM
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#67
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Hot Springs, VA
Posts: 1,995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgrayaz
Mini splits are very interesting. The RV industry is so old school with the roof top units....
Our basement system in really pretty good too, but NLA...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birddog2you
30 amp three prong plug. 50 4 prong plug
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Yes, but i'm talking about when I'm comparing / considering different RVs. I don't see a spec that tells which it is.
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04-16-2018, 01:35 PM
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#68
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Senior Member
Mid Atlantic Campers
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manwithnorv
Yes, but i'm talking about when I'm comparing / considering different RVs. I don't see a spec that tells which it is.
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Most newer models will be 50 amp. Good indicator is if it has 2 a/c it will be 50. Residential frig. On demand hot water heater.
__________________
2008 CC 34RLSA / 2003 F-250 SD 6.0
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04-16-2018, 01:57 PM
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#69
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manwithnorv
Yes, but i'm talking about when I'm comparing / considering different RVs. I don't see a spec that tells which it is.
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- If it has an exterior power socket. 30a = 3 conductors, 50a =4 conductors. -
- The power distribution panel will have either a 30 or 50 amp breaker
- If the salesman has any intelligence, he either knows it's 30 or 50 amp or he can look at the spec
- If the power cord weighs a LOT and is pretty stiff, it's 50A. Light and flexible, 30 amp
- Two a/c units or at least wired for two = 50a
__________________
Dave W
2011 Ford F250 6.7 Lariat CCLB, Gone but not forgotten
2014 Montana High Country 343RL (sold it!)
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04-16-2018, 05:06 PM
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#70
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Hot Springs, VA
Posts: 1,995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
- If it has an exterior power socket. 30a = 3 conductors, 50a =4 conductors. -
- The power distribution panel will have either a 30 or 50 amp breaker
- If the salesman has any intelligence, he either knows it's 30 or 50 amp or he can look at the spec
- If the power cord weighs a LOT and is pretty stiff, it's 50A. Light and flexible, 30 amp
- Two a/c units or at least wired for two = 50a
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I'm talking about looking on line / researching different RV's. I know how to look at a plug.
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