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JAH · 08-09-2008, 02:10 AM

I am looking at a 1999 33SKSD Aluma lite, does anyone have any advice or experience?

JAH · 08-09-2008, 02:10 AM

I am looking at a 1999 33SKSD Aluma lite, does anyone have any advice or experience?

ATVr · 08-09-2008, 07:56 PM

I own a 1996 AlumaLite that I bought new. 32', front bedroom, rear bunks and large slide. What is it you'd like to know?

JAH · 08-10-2008, 12:57 AM

Is there anything to keep a closer eye on? Water leaks, system malfunctions etc., things which may be unique to AlumaLite. This trailer seems to be in superb condition, and maybe I'm leery of too good.

ATVr · 08-11-2008, 07:30 AM

I don't think I've had any issue that was unique to the AlumaLite. Since new I have replaced the two low-point drain valves which required cutting into the underbelly. Not a huge deal, but I thought they could have used a little better quality valves. I replaced the batteries at age 7. I have replaced the brakes once. Last year I installed the Dexter upgrade kit for the suspension and I'm very glad I did. Like most TTs, the springs are bolted to the shackles at each end and to the equalizer in the middle. The stock arrangement is PLASTIC bushings and dry bolts. The plastic was all but gone when I took it apart. The upgrade kit uses brass bushings, wet bolts and a replacement equalizer that has zerk fittings as well. The wet bolts mean another place to grease, but I don't mind... It's the way they should have been built in the first place. I have never replaced an interior light bulb. Perhaps a couple of exterior bulbs. Original water pump and all appliances. The TV needed fixing under warranty.

My only serious gripe about the unit is the plastic moldings they used at the panel joining lines. Surely they knew the TT would go outside. The plastic started off white but the sunlight turned it a sort of rusty brown. I've called the factory many times and the only response is that it will have to be painted. Ever try to paint flexible plastic for outdoor use? I've tried most everything, with limited success.

Perhaps they solved that problem prior to your 1999 model. The only leak we've had was caused by the rubber seal on the slideout not flipping to the outgoing direction when the slide was deployed. I fixed that by laying a bead of silicone down the slide roof so that it catches the seal and flips it out. Works fine.

I hope you have a serious tow vehicle. I know I should know from the designation whether it has a slide, but I've forgotten the code. With a slide and that length you will weigh somewhere around 9,500 lbs. when you put propane, food, DVDs, etc...etc, inside. Is it a front kitchen? If so, you are gonna need a mondo hitch as my center kitchen model has a 940 lb. tongue weight. Look for an electric tongue jack as jacking by hand is nearly impossible. Hope this helps. Keep sending them along.

JAH · 08-11-2008, 10:02 AM

Thank you for the reply. The one I have now purchased is a fifth wheel, my tow vehicle is a Ford F250, 7.3 diesel. The trailer has two slides, bedroom and living room. We haven't really used it yet but are pleased to this point. I will look at the suspension, although with the limited towing I have done with it (about 130 miles) everything rode well, nothing was jostled around in the trailer.
Again, thank you.

ATVr · 08-12-2008, 02:03 PM

Uhm.... a couple of points. Have you done the weight calculations? Holidays are hardly light trailers and I would be surprised if you are not at, or over the ratings for the 250. My last truck was a 250. That's why I have a 350 now. Look at the door sticker. I expect you to see a GCVWR (Gross combined vehicle weight rating) of 8,800 lbs. You don't say whether it is supercab, crew cab, 4x4 or whatever. My 350 is 4x4 CC LB and with just me and some fuel, I weigh about 7,500 lbs. Your trailer is a foot longer than mine and has 2 slides to my one. Slides are heavy. My unit weighs around 9,500 lbs with propane, food, etc. I wouldn't be surprised if yours weighs in the neighborhood of 12,000 lbs. Figure 20% of that is pin weight, so you are plunking down roughly 2,400 lbs on the back of truck. Perhaps more. In any event, 2,400 lbs plus a conservative truck weight of 7,000 puts you over your GCVWR before you put any passengers, dogs, generators, wood, etc. The 7.3 is a stout engine and I'm sure you can pull that much, but weigh the rear axle by itself and you'll probably find you are very near the GAWR (Gross axle weight rating). That's a heck of a lot of weight for just a single rear end to handle. Yup, I've seen F-250s with that big a fiver and bigger. That doesn't make it good. A rear blow out on a single with that much fiver on is not much fun. I assume you're not going to change anything now that you've bought it, so, at least make sure the tires are load range E and inflated to 80 PSI.

As for the suspension: Jostling isn't the issue. The springs wearing through the shackles and letting loose or just getting so sloppy that tracking is affected is the issue. The suspension will also squeak when you walk around inside. At least mine did. FWIW, you can't see the plastic bushings. They are inside the spring eye and the mounting bolt goes through them. All of mine were worn through.

GAGypsy · 11-09-2008, 10:37 AM

To add to ATVr's comments, on the plus side is Holiday Rambler Aluminite aluminum bird cage welded construction. I run a 1984 HR 5er 34' about 2500 miles per year. We are semi-fulltimers. The HR frame and roof metal structure is tops. Do not expect any roof problems for years, and you will never see frame shifting no matter how much mileage you put on your unit over the years. No staples to rust, no laminates to separate, great resale. HR has been the choice of many fulltimers and carnys for years until they changed in the Monarch years.