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Old 10-28-2020, 11:56 PM   #1
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Hot Water Problem

Hi, I'm hoping someone else has had this same issue and knows what to do. I've got a 2000 36' King of the Road Royalite and I cant seem to get any hot water above luke warm in the shower or the bathroom/vanity sink. The kitchen sink gets hot water (located almost directly above the hot water tank/heater), but the others not so much. Water flow doesn't seem impeded or lower flow compared to the kitchen, and when I initially turn on the hot water in the shower there is a brief 1-2 seconds when the temp gets high but then quickly falls to just above room temp, the same happens with the bathroom/vanity sink. I have a 10 gallon Surburban SW10DE unit and I just recently replaced the electric heating element. This was going on before I replaced the element and I hoped replacing the element would solve the issue, and it does seem to have improved the temperature in the kitchen, but no where else. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!
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Old 10-29-2020, 12:14 AM   #2
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If you are getting hot water at the kitchen sink, the heater must be working. The easiest way, at least to me, to verify the temperature of the water from the heater is to go to the outside access panel and pull the release handle on the OTP valve. Then carefully sample the temperature of the water released from the OTP valve. This will eliminate any plumbing issues. If it's not hot coming directly out of the tank, you have a heating issue.



Assuming the water coming out of the tank is sufficiently hot, you likely have a plumbing issue. There are several potential causes. The most likely are:
  • A fixture with it's valves open but the output shut off.
    • The outside shower is the most common culprit here. The handles can be open allowing cold and hot to mix, but the shower head can be turned off preventing water from coming out. This could also happen at the inside shower, but would be more obvious.
  • A failed thermal mixing valve
    • Some water heaters have a valve that is designed to mix cold water with the hot water leaving the tank to allow the heater to operate at a higher temperature without risking scalding. These valves can and often do fail.
  • Winterizing valves set in the wrong configuration. Some heaters have multiple valves to bypass the heater for winterizing. It's possible to get these set in a configuration that mixes hot and cold reducing the temperature.
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Old 10-29-2020, 12:26 AM   #3
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Many RV water heaters heat water to about 120 to 140 F. This may vary if you have a mixing valve on the back of the heater.

Assuming you have good temperature at the kitchen, I'd think the problem is elsewhere. Possible a mixing issue as suggested above with an outside shower or the main shower if equipped with a quick cutoff valve in the hose somewhere.

It is also possible that the facets are not working correctly. Highly unlikely they all went south at the same time.
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Old 10-29-2020, 07:21 AM   #4
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I had that problem once and it was the knobs on the outside shower were turned on a bit. It was explained to me that the internal parts age and it starts to act as a mixing valve.
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Old 10-29-2020, 10:42 AM   #5
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Some shower mixing valves are flow dependent. Try removing the the shower head and see what is coming out when that restriction is removed.
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Old 10-29-2020, 02:12 PM   #6
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OP said the water temperature in the kitchen area is NORMAL, the bathroom has NORMAL pressure but lukewarm water, two isolated locations but with a common source. I like the accidental blending suggestion with H&C valves open and shower head shut off in the outside water box. Another thought is about the inside shower controls, the OP didn't say if the shower has separate H&C knobs or a single handle shower control that mixes. OP also said the issue existed before the heating element in the hot water heater was replaced.
Is it possible that a by-pass valve used for winterizing get bumped and allowing hot and cold be merged .

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Old 10-29-2020, 02:25 PM   #7
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OP stated " I have a 10 gallon Surburban SW10DE....."
That is a standard Suburban 10 gal direct spark electric combo WH.
Normal Temp T-stat OPENS at 130*F/CLOSES for heating cycle at 100*F
High Temp T-stat OPENS at 170*F....has to be manually reset by Pushing the Button
120VAC for electric ---Left set
12VDC for propane ---Right Set

No Mixing valves used

OP has hot water AT Kitchen sink faucet (located almost directly above the hot water tank/heater).
If WH Tank Bypass was open ALL hot water would be diluted...luke warm
Farther away from WH Tank...bathroom sink faucet and shower are getting luke warm water
**Outside shower not turned off using Hot/Cold Knobs allows shower faucet to act as a mixing chamber...cold diluting hot

Kitchen sink gets hot water cause it is 1st in line on hot water from WH Tank
Bathroom sink faucet/shower....getting diluted temp water
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Old 10-29-2020, 08:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
OP stated " I have a 10 gallon Surburban SW10DE....."
That is a standard Suburban 10 gal direct spark electric combo WH.
Normal Temp T-stat OPENS at 130*F/CLOSES for heating cycle at 100*F
High Temp T-stat OPENS at 170*F....has to be manually reset by Pushing the Button
120VAC for electric ---Left set
12VDC for propane ---Right Set

No Mixing valves used

OP has hot water AT Kitchen sink faucet (located almost directly above the hot water tank/heater).
If WH Tank Bypass was open ALL hot water would be diluted...luke warm
Farther away from WH Tank...bathroom sink faucet and shower are getting luke warm water
**Outside shower not turned off using Hot/Cold Knobs allows shower faucet to act as a mixing chamber...cold diluting hot

Kitchen sink gets hot water cause it is 1st in line on hot water from WH Tank
Bathroom sink faucet/shower....getting diluted temp water
On EDIT:

If shower H/C Knobs are closed then you have 'lost' one of the Dip Tubes inside the WH Tank

Cold Dip tube points 'downward' so incoming cold water creates a temp zone and pushes hot out
If broken off...incoming cold water will quickly dilute the available hot

Hot Dip Tube points 'upward' so incoming cold water pushes Hot out with upper level being the hottest zone
If broken off...incoming cold will cause hot to swirl diluting the available hot

Turn water supply off
Relieve pressure...open kitchen sink faucet hotside
Remove anode rod
Using a BRIGHT flashlight look inside tank and see if you have any plastic tube laying in bottom of tank
*removing electric element will give you a better view

Replacement Dip Tubes are available.
Installed via external ports (Hot/upper & Cold/Lower)
Then just press into ports then are secured in place via the fittings for water lines

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