Community Forums

chunker · 02-02-2018, 06:57 AM

Am getting a 5th wheel, 2012 PT Crusader, this week and will be doing a few repairs and maintenance adjustments. Tires are suspect. While they are not that old, their brand and origin leaves a lot to be desired. 3 are 235-80-16 Soltera. 1 is a Noble 235-85-16. Date codes on Soltera mid 2015 and Noble mid 2016. Age and tread not an issue, quality is. Unknown Chinese crap. I say unknown because on a couple of forums I have asked is anyone has info on these brands with no responses except the generic, "china bombs" etc. That I know I want specific info. Iv'e also googled them with little info except they are for sale.

That said I am planning to replace with GY Endurance of the 80 aspect ratio, LRE. I am going with ST so please avoid the ST vs LT discussion. Sam's has them for good price and I plan to haul them in to install.

Jacking:??? have a 20T bottle jack, 4 automotive type jack stands, and a lot of wood blocks, 2x6, 6x6, etc. Been a while since I jacked a trailer up so I'm asking about best and safest method. I would like to take all 4 tires on one trip since the Sam's isn't next door. I suppose that raising one side, lowering securely on blocks, removing wheels, and repeat on the other side. Other than chocking the tires opposite the first set being removed, don't know any other precautions. Will be on a level concrete pad.

What is the best jacking point and then best supporting location? Frame next to axle, under spring shackles, ??? Remember that where it's jacked can't be used for supporting because only one bottle jack capable of lifting. Any precautions on the front landing gear?

Only other issue is the trailer has no spare so I'm planning an appropriate 16" white steel wheel and use the best of the existing Soltera tires for a spare. This 5th wheel will not be making long trips but I want good and safe rubber on it. Thanks for the assistance.

chunker · 02-02-2018, 07:02 AM

I'll add to my above post. While the wheels are off, I'll inspect and repack the bearings, inspect brakes and generally clean everything up. My previous PDI found a broken wire to the left rear brake right where it goes into the back of the hub. That will be repaired also. Couldn't really tell when I was on the creeper under it how the wire goes in. Single white wire. Any other recommended inspections or adjustments while I'm down there?

monkey · 02-02-2018, 08:46 AM

Not sure of your rv, but mine with Moryde (sp?) suspension says jack the frame... Been a motorhead forever,,, I understand "some" could bend the axle tube... You sound like you are on the right track. Level concrete, (no winds????) I think you'll be fine... If using multiple wood blocks,, I'd cross them,, you know one one way, the next the other. Just to make it more stable... Great idea to do the wheel bearings at the same time !!!! I have already manually done our wheel bearings at one year. Again, Don't jack the axle tube.....
under the shackles I don't see a problem... My opinion...
Monkey

rvinsant · 02-02-2018, 08:54 AM

Inspect the spring shackle bolts and bushings. They probably came with plastic bushings. It is a good time to upgrade to metal bushings and greasable bolts.

monkey · 02-02-2018, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvinsant

Inspect the spring shackle bolts and bushings. They probably came with plastic bushings. It is a good time to upgrade to metal bushings and greasable bolts.

Good point.... Inspect Everything while you are under there...... Even the frame and attatch points.... Peace of mind next several trips is priceless....

chaps2018 · 02-02-2018, 09:46 AM

Following my trailer's manual...jacking only the frame. In the case below I was at discount tire getting wheels balanced. They could not jack the frame due to height. I was prepared with my lynx blocks. Trailer was hitched.

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chaps2018 · 02-02-2018, 09:51 AM

For bearings/brake work I use two of the jack/jackstand combo (right side in the above pic). This removes the bottle jack failure risk.

Trailer is 14k gvwr

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003U...one+jack+stand

AKFlyboy · 02-02-2018, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bjlakatos

For bearings/brake work I use two of the jack/jackstand combo (right side in the above pic). This removes the bottle jack failure risk.

Trailer is 14k gvwr

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003U...one+jack+stand

That's pretty slick. How does it work on bringing it down? Can you control the rate, or is it just an instant dump?

I wish someone would make a cheaper, smaller version of the Tronair style jacks I'm used to in my industry.

chaps2018 · 02-02-2018, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AKFlyboy

...How does it work on bringing it down? Can you control the rate, or is it just an instant dump?...

smooth and controlled just like a bottle jack.

L.C.Gray · 02-03-2018, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AKFlyboy

I wish someone would make a cheaper, smaller version of the Tronair style jacks I'm used to in my industry.

Uh huh... The ones I use are close to head high... collapsed. Its a long way up to get off WOW...

grindstone01 · 02-03-2018, 03:30 PM

For my fifth wheel, I put the 20T bottle jack under the spring plate and put a jack stand under the axle tube close to the bottle jack. I also put a 2X4 block of wood between the axle and camper frame to keep the tire from rising too high into the wheel well which can make the tire hard to remove. Have you considered 14 ply G rated tires?

cruzbill · 02-03-2018, 03:35 PM

X2 on replacing the plastic spring shackles, but you gotta grease 'em often (3,000 mi??) or they will wear out right now!. Suggest Lippert Never Fail bushings. And now would be a perfect time to replace your DUMB (drum) brakes w/ disc. Not hard to do and your family's safety is worth it.

rarebear.nm · 02-03-2018, 10:17 PM

Jacking points is a frequent area of discussion. Most trailer axles are not all that strong and usually are not designed for jacking or supporting with a stand. You can easily deform or bend the axle that way. The best bet is to always jack and support on the frame only. I use either a 12 or 20 ton jack and have four quality safety stands that I place under the frame fore and aft of the axles.

I would recommend doing as others have stated above. Replace the drum brakes with disk brakes. You'll wonder why anyone is still selling drum brakes??? Replace the shackle sleeves with bronze bushings with wet bolts. Yes they should be lubed every 3,000 miles as per Dexter. Inspect and re-grease or replace the wheel bearings. Check the shocks if present and all welds. Consider updating the equalizers well since everything is already apart. Always make sure the load rating of tires, rims and axles all match up.

Have fun and be safe...

chunker · 02-04-2018, 06:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rarebear.nm

Jacking points is a frequent area of discussion. Most trailer axles are not all that strong and usually are not designed for jacking or supporting with a stand. You can easily deform or bend the axle that way. The best bet is to always jack and support on the frame only. I use either a 12 or 20 ton jack and have four quality safety stands that I place under the frame fore and aft of the axles.

I would recommend doing as others have stated above. Replace the drum brakes with disk brakes. You'll wonder why anyone is still selling drum brakes??? Replace the shackle sleeves with bronze bushings with wet bolts. Yes they should be lubed every 3,000 miles as per Dexter. Inspect and re-grease or replace the wheel bearings. Check the shocks if present and all welds. Consider updating the equalizers well since everything is already apart. Always make sure the load rating of tires, rims and axles all match up.

Have fun and be safe...

It may be that this trailer spends most of it's remaining life parked on the bayou with short trips back to AL when storms hit or we are gone in the motorhome for extended trips. Disc brakes would be nice and depending on our usage, may go on the list. I spent some time on the creeper under it looking for obvious damages or problems and didn't see any except spider webs and the one broken brake wire. I did see a MORryde logo on the suspension center shackle?? but beyond that, don't know what type or model it is. No shocks. I didn't think to look for lube points or wet bolts. I looked as best I could and drum brake pad thickness looks good. I'll pull the hubs when I get it jacked up and tires off.

I believe the axles were Lipert 6k. Not sure what upgrade to suspension is possible or recommended in this case. Been a while since I felt with trailer suspensions or parts. Tires/wheels LRE which is matched to weight.

I will be jacking on frame as close to axles as I can get and still get an appropriate stand between the jack and axle. I'm going to see if I can find some 4K stands which would be overkill in holding capacity

This is a bank repo that I got to take home for an extended PDI and it looks good BUT there's stuff I didn't check throughly, ignorance on my part, so that's why I'm unsure what is involved in some areas. Our inspection of structure and appliances was very thorough. I go get it back this Wednesday, will put in under the pole barn with concrete floor and full hookups and "tear into er". I posted over on the Forest River Prime Time forum about previous PDI and issues. I posted a question about wheel size, rim width???, because I need to get a spare. So far no definitive answer. 16", 8 lug.

Thanks for good answers.